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2018 Yamaha Limited S E Audio upgrade

Because they are the most efficient amps you can get on the market. They run cooler than A/B or any other class. On hot days on the water in boats, it's a must or you amp will over heat for sure. Even class D amps overheats too tho. That's why JL comes into play as being the best. Less likely to overheat. I've gotten my to overheat tho as it gets very hot in the south. You being in the north west, You should be ok not to use class d. But I would tho.
Im just about to do my audio install and I have a audison lrx 6.9 i was going to use for the 6 jl 6.5's and a alpine pdx-v9 to run the 2 towerspeaker, the wetsounds stealth 10 and a jl m10ib5. So it sou.ds like the audison wouldn't be a good choice?
 
Im just about to do my audio install and I have a audison lrx 6.9 i was going to use for the 6 jl 6.5's and a alpine pdx-v9 to run the 2 towerspeaker, the wetsounds stealth 10 and a jl m10ib5. So it sou.ds like the audison wouldn't be a good choice?
Anything can be a good choice. It all depends what you are shooting for. For the casual Audophile, Audison is ok. But for people looking to maximize their speakers and equipment, it's not if that makes sense.
 
I guess to help explain this more as it seems many are still confused with this. Lets take JL 1200 watt amp vs Kicker 1200 or 1000 watt amp. Or even WS or any other amps on the market. At 12.4 volts, JL will still produce 1200 watts. No other amp can do that. All the other amps can only produce their max/stated watts at usually 14.1 volts. Anything under that, it's not efficient and wattage drops. That alone makes JL better than any other amp. In the boating world unless you are constantly moving you will never see 14.1 volts especially in Yamaha boats.

So yes this is why its also the best marine amp money can buy. But like @Mainah stated they are expensive but good reason for that. For all amps besides JL anything under 14.1 volts, it's just not efficient like JL. Hope this makes sense .
 
Now this is something I will argue and can prove you wrong. JL does make the best amps out there. Case close. I've tried them all and seen the best in action. Nothing touches JL. That I can guarantee you!!! Kicker has head quarters here in Oklahoma so I know way more about them than any. They are not even close to JLs category. I even have kicker amps in my truck. Yes they are good but nothing like JL. JL gives you true watts all way down to 11.5 or lower volts on batteries. Kicker all no other amp has the capabilities that I know of to date! That's a game changer in boats or even in vehicles that are stationary. I'm not crazy about JL products in whole, but they are kings in AMPS for sure.

Lol ok... the only thing JL has to offer is more "rated" power. Kicker offers more as far as functionality (clipping indicitators, SHOCwave, and more flexible crossover options). Just because your 90 minutes from StillWater doesn't mean anything. JL is a few hours from me, I don't claim to know their company inside and out. Furthermore, the MHD is the only model that offers RIPS, and they only offer 3 amps that start at $850. If you go down to their M series (most common), they are only rated for 14.4v. Don't be a fanboy, and don't come claiming things unless you can back it up with data. To even say they are not close, is just ignorant and shows your limited visibility to other products.
 
I guess to help explain this more as it seems many are still confused with this. Lets take JL 1200 watt amp vs Kicker 1200 or 1000 watt amp. Or even WS or any other amps on the market. At 12.4 volts, JL will still produce 1200 watts. No other amp can do that. All the other amps can only produce their max/stated watts at usually 14.1 volts. Anything under that, it's not efficient and wattage drops. That alone makes JL better than any other amp. In the boating world unless you are constantly moving you will never see 14.1 volts especially in Yamaha boats.

So yes this is why its also the best marine amp money can buy. But like @Mainah stated they are expensive but good reason for that. For all amps besides JL anything under 14.1 volts, it's just not efficient like JL. Hope this makes sense .

Dude... you better clarify only ONE model out of their 3 marine amps does this. And its 14.4 FYI
 
It is also important to note that you get LESS power with the JL MHD when it comes to bridging and decreasing the ohm-load. This is a drawback of the RIPS technology.
 
Im just about to do my audio install and I have a audison lrx 6.9 i was going to use for the 6 jl 6.5's and a alpine pdx-v9 to run the 2 towerspeaker, the wetsounds stealth 10 and a jl m10ib5. So it sou.ds like the audison wouldn't be a good choice?

Those are both great amplifiers. I would have no issues running those in the boat if your in fresh water only and can mount them high up. If salt water, go to something with marine specifications.
 
Lol ok... the only thing JL has to offer is more "rated" power. Kicker offers more as far as functionality (clipping indicitators, SHOCwave, and more flexible crossover options). Just because your 90 minutes from StillWater doesn't mean anything. JL is a few hours from me, I don't claim to know their company inside and out. Furthermore, the MHD is the only model that offers RIPS, and they only offer 3 amps that start at $850. If you go down to their M series (most common), they are only rated for 14.4v. Don't be a fanboy, and don't come claiming things unless you can back it up with data. To even say they are not close, is just ignorant and shows your limited visibility to other products.
Man this is pointless debating with you on this. Obviously you not very versed in stereo equipment. It's ok. Whenever you ready for me to show you all the bench tests, I will prove you very wrong. And yes i have personal testes many amps. JL only amp that gives out its' true power. Why pay of an amp that doesn't produce what it claims? Who cares about clipping indicators and all the other small selling point Kicker does. Sounds like what little kids look for. GLOWING LIGHTS ON AMPS. If you know how to set up your system, clipping should never be an issue. I can play max max and will never clip because I know how to tune my equipment and have some faulty light tell me I'm clipping.

I didn't want to go their but yes being 90 mins from Kicker headquarter gives me the insight that kicker is kinda trash. No one out here use it like that man. You can get any one you know with kicker and I will bring my JL setup and I promise it wont be a comparison. Again I'm not JL all the way. I just know by tests and experience they have the best amps. You have no idea the stereo crowd I run with and what kind of systems we build. Again pick the place and it can be proven to you.
 
Those are both great amplifiers. I would have no issues running those in the boat if your in fresh water only and can mount them high up. If salt water, go to something with marine specifications.
Again dumb statement. Why bridge? Why go down ohms?
It is also important to note that you get LESS power with the JL MHD when it comes to bridging and decreasing the ohm-load. This is a drawback of the RIPS technology.
Again dumb statement. Why bridge? Again research before you post. Jl produces same wattage down to 1ohm. NO FREAKING OTHER AMP DOES THAT! So 4 ohm or 1 ohm you still get same wattage another efficient part of JL.

ANY OTHER INACCURATE STATEMENT YOU HAVE FOR ME? Either way, I'm lover and not a fighter. I still respect you, just need to enlighten you some ;)
 
Man this is pointless debating with you on this. Obviously you not very versed in stereo equipment. It's ok. Whenever you ready for me to show you all the bench tests, I will prove you very wrong. And yes i have personal testes many amps. JL only amp that gives out its' true power. Why pay of an amp that doesn't produce what it claims? Who cares about clipping indicators and all the other small selling point Kicker does. Sounds like what little kids look for. GLOWING LIGHTS ON AMPS. If you know how to set up your system, clipping should never be an issue. I can play max max and will never clip because I know how to tune my equipment and have some faulty light tell me I'm clipping.

I didn't want to go their but yes being 90 mins from Kicker headquarter gives me the insight that kicker is kinda trash. No one out here use it like that man. You can get any one you know with kicker and I will bring my JL setup and I promise it wont be a comparison. Again I'm not JL all the way. I just know by tests and experience they have the best amps. You have no idea the stereo crowd I run with and what kind of systems we build. Again pick the place and it can be proven to you.

10+ years experience and a Master MECP certification (~300 in the country). Yeah I know nothing lol. What do you want to prove? I have run a large amount of different equipment, I also have been a big over on DIYMA, where SQ is king. You seem like the type of person that would tell me their system hit 200dBs. Based on your posts here, your a fan boy and extremely inexperienced. You say an Audison is for casual audiophile, but a JL would be better than that Audison? At best the JL is on par with Audison.
 
Again dumb statement. Why bridge? Why go down ohms?

Again dumb statement. Why bridge? Again research before you post. Jl produces same wattage down to 1ohm. NO FREAKING OTHER AMP DOES THAT! So 4 ohm or 1 ohm you still get same wattage another efficient part of JL.

ANY OTHER INACCURATE STATEMENT YOU HAVE FOR ME? Either way, I'm lover and not a fighter. I still respect you, just need to enlighten you some ;)

Really, why bridge? Ummm there are a plenty of reasons why, it all depends on the set up, but the most common is for a subwoofer or to get more power. And also there are 2 ohms speakers out there, so if you have those you lose power. Research what? I can literally can a screenshot from their page to prove you wrong.
 
When you find better amp than these stats HOLLA AT YA BOY

Rated Continuous (RMS) Power @ 14.4 V
@ 4 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 3 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 2 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 1.5 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
Rated Continuous (RMS) Power @ 12.5 V
@ 4 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 3 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 2 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 1.5 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
General Specifications
Frequency Response 6 Hz - 8 kHz (+0, -1dB)
S/N Ratio, referred to highest rated power >110 dB below rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth)
S/N Ratio, referred to 1 W (Main Channels) >79 dB (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth)
Damping Factor @ 4 Ω >500 / 50 Hz
Damping Factor @ 2 Ω >250 / 50 Hz
THD+N @ Rated Power (Main Channels) <0.03% @ 4 Ω
Input Voltage Range @ RCA Inputs Switchable from 200 mV - 2 V RMS (Low) to 800 mV - 8 V RMS (High)
Min.Copper Power / Ground Wire Gauge 2 AWG wire
Fuse Rating 100 A (AFS, AGU or MaxiFuse™)
Signal Processing
Filter Mode(s) Low-Pass or High-Pass
Filter Slope(s) 12/24 dB/octave
Filter Frequency Range 50 Hz - 500 Hz
Detented, Calibrated Filter Freq. Potentiometer Yes
Filter Defeat Function Yes
Infrasonic Filter 30 Hz, defeatable
Bass Boost EQ No
Output Polarity Switch Yes
Remote Subwoofer Level Control Optional (HD-RLC)
Remote Bass EQ Boost Control No
Pass-Through Preamp Output Buffered
 
Really, why bridge? Ummm there are a plenty of reasons why, it all depends on the set up, but the most common is for a subwoofer or to get more power. And also there are 2 ohms speakers out there, so if you have those you lose power. Research what? I can literally can a screenshot from their page to prove you wrong.
10 Years and you slacking. Yo old man new tech out there. Means no need to bridge if you have an amp that can produce same watts at any ohm. JL I can go any ohm to get that same power. No other amp can do that AGAIN! I don't know how else to explain that to you. That means if you have 2 ohm sub you can still get same power going down or up and stay efficient. Doubling power means less efficient.
 
You have to bridge to get higher power?????? NOT EFFICIENT MAN.
 
You have to bridge to get higher power?????? NOT EFFICIENT MAN.

If you want to run 200+ watts to a single speaker, bridging is the best way to do that. Again your inexperience is very apparent.
 
If you want to run 200+ watts to a single speaker, bridging is the best way to do that. Again your inexperience is very apparent.
WEll sorry I mess with on JL HD. Look at my signature. With that no reason to bridge or go down in ohms to get higher power. So stick to the original amps. I could care less about the MHD. Those are not same as the HD. I'm not going to argue with a washed up installer from 1970 man. Have a good one.
 
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