2020 Livewell Troubleshooting & Recirc. Pump Suggestions

[jknapp]

I have a 2020 Yamaha 210 FSH Deluxe.

Issue #1: Livewell pump breaker tripping

• recently noted that my live well pump will turn on for a few seconds and then the breaker trips.
• There is also an unknown period of time in between the breaker tripping and the time I am able to reset the breaker.
  • Is there a fuse that I can also check?
• I will see water pumping for a few seconds and then nothing. and then it will take between several minutes to 10-20 minutes before I can reset the breaker on the control panel on the helm.
• aerator/recirc work fine and I am able to fill live well up with water manually, although not ideal

Issue #2: Recirc filter clogs

• I use my vessel primarily for freshwater fishing and noticed that when I went Speck fishing recently that my recirc pump external filter got clogged up with fish slime quite easily when housing obviously stressed fish from being caught
• any thoughts on preventing clogs of the filter?
  • I am not worried about hard debris being caught in the pump as it is just fish slime so could I just remove the filter or is there an alternative that is not so fine meshed?
• While not catastrophic I would like to ensure that I can store fish alive and as safe as possible in my LiveWell.
• Also is there a method to utilizing the live well and its pump when the live well is fully stocked with fish? Do you only use it to store bait fish? I mean you can recirculate the water all you want but it is still full of ammonia and other toxic metabolites from respiration and waste.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Nice layout on your post!

Questions;
Are you in salt water or fresh?
Have reached down in the aft bilge and pulled the pump off its base and checked for debris? The Tsunami motor and pump just unscrews from the base. Also check that none of the wires are chaffed and the conductors are exposed.
Does the pump run without tripping the breaker when the boat is out of the water?

In regards to the breaker tripping on the live well fill pump, if the pump is the original it could just be worn out and or faulty. The part number for the Tsunami pump will be on the part you unscrew from the base so you order one if it’s bad.

F

Thread 'Removing and replacing livewell pump.'

Mar 15, 2023

Has anyone removed and replaced the livewell pump on the 2021 or simular fsh sport? Also do you have to replace the aerater as well? My livewell pump isn't working but my livewell pump is. I was just wondering if I should replace both.

• Fish for Dinner
• Replies: 4
• Forum: General Discussion

Having said that, the reset time on the breaker makes me think the breaker could be bad, your boat came with two ACC rocker switches that were unused if one of them is still not in use you could try moving the live well feed pump to one of those rocker switches, BUT, you need to check the circuit breaker for the live well fill pump and the ACC circuit breaker and make sure the ACC circuit breaker is not larger amp wise than the live well fill pump. If you determine that the circuit breaker is bad a new one can be had from New Wire Marine for a few bucks.

Push-to-Reset Circuit Breaker

This marine circuit breaker is push-to-reset style. It makes for a great replacement for those old fuses. We use it in our custom panels.

newwiremarine.com

I’ve had the same issue as you with the aerator pump screen clogging, when it gets clogged I usually just rinse it out with the raw water wash down and put it back. T-H marine makes intake strainers with a much larger mesh if you want.

Aerator Screen Strainer Stainless Mesh - TH Marine - 3/4"-14 Threaded Aerator Strainer w/ Large Mesh - Black Base (AS-1-DP) - T-H Marine Supplies

T-H Marine is the ORIGINAL source of stainless aerator screens These screw-on stainless steel wire mesh strainers are designed to provide effective, dependable protection against trash or fish scales which could clog drains in bait wells or p

thmarinesupplies.com

Amazon.com : livewell strainer

 

[jknapp]

Nice layout on your post!

Questions;
Are you in salt water or fresh?
Have reached down in the aft bilge and pulled the pump off its base and checked for debris? The Tsunami motor and pump just unscrews from the base. Also check that none of the wires are chaffed and the conductors are exposed.
Does the pump run without tripping the breaker when the boat is out of the water?

In regards to the breaker tripping on the live well fill pump, if the pump is the original it could just be worn out and or faulty. The part number for the Tsunami pump will be on the part you unscrew from the base so you order one if it’s bad.

F

Thread 'Removing and replacing livewell pump.'

Mar 15, 2023

Has anyone removed and replaced the livewell pump on the 2021 or simular fsh sport? Also do you have to replace the aerater as well? My livewell pump isn't working but my livewell pump is. I was just wondering if I should replace both.

• Fish for Dinner
• Replies: 4
• Forum: General Discussion

Having said that, the reset time on the breaker makes me think the breaker could be bad, your boat came with two ACC rocker switches that were unused if one of them is still not in use you could try moving the live well feed pump to one of those rocker switches, BUT, you need to check the circuit breaker for the live well fill pump and the ACC circuit breaker and make sure the ACC circuit breaker is not larger amp wise than the live well fill pump. If you determine that the circuit breaker is bad a new one can be had from New Wire Marine for a few bucks.

Push-to-Reset Circuit Breaker

This marine circuit breaker is push-to-reset style. It makes for a great replacement for those old fuses. We use it in our custom panels.

newwiremarine.com

I’ve had the same issue as you with the aerator pump screen clogging, when it gets clogged I usually just rinse it out with the raw water wash down and put it back. T-H marine makes intake strainers with a much larger mesh if you want.

Aerator Screen Strainer Stainless Mesh - TH Marine - 3/4"-14 Threaded Aerator Strainer w/ Large Mesh - Black Base (AS-1-DP) - T-H Marine Supplies

T-H Marine is the ORIGINAL source of stainless aerator screens These screw-on stainless steel wire mesh strainers are designed to provide effective, dependable protection against trash or fish scales which could clog drains in bait wells or p

thmarinesupplies.com

Amazon.com : livewell strainer

Thanks for the pointers.
Previous owners used strictly in salt. I have only done freshwater.

I wasn't able to tick all the boxes of troubleshooting tasks due to the unfortunate action of the previous owner to seal the aft bilge.

Further development in the livewell pump won't turn on at all now and the light to the rocker switch doesn't even light up.

Will have to address in the near future. Will keep you updated.

On the bright side I did find that my scupper corrugated hose had become disconnected so that has been fixed. Also, I was able to use the raw water washdown to fill the livewell. Would have been nice to figure that out yesterday when I brought in a nice 4lb largemouth.

 

[jknapp]

Update @FSH 210 Sport

I was able to use a flat head screwdriver to separate the bilge cover from the hull without damaging either.


However, I could still not remove it because after disconnecting the drain from the cover and loosening the clean out hose clamps I saw that the clean out hoses were siliconed to the bilge cover.


I did not attempt to remove as I worry this could damage something.

1. Is it expected that these are siliconed to the cover?
2. If so, any advice on how to safely remove the clean out hoses.

I can literally see the pump but cannot physically reach it with the cover in the way. I also tried looking through the main engine compartment and it is too far for me to reach. Appreciate any advice.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I made the mistake once of gluing the clean out try down…. It was after that I saw that sealant is applied AFTER the clean out tray has been installed. Some folks use DAP seal and peel which is easy to remove. Be careful tightening those screws that hold the clean out tray, they strip easily and you’ll have to go to oversized screws.

As far as the tubes go you’re going to have get something with a right angle on it and slowly work around the tubes to break the bond of the silicone. You might be able to use a thick feeler gauge or perhaps a small screw driver or putty knife from the inside and slide it up under the plastic and work your way around.

Those tubes do not need sealer, I put silicone grease on mine and they seal up fine. Once you get the clean out tray off you’ll need to clean all of the silicone sealer out from where the two surfaces interface.

Another thing you can do is block off that 3/4” drain line, it’s not necessary on our boats as there two large drain channels on either side of that area.

Have a good look at the clean out plug seals, if they’re cracked or deformed replace them.

 

[jknapp]

I made the mistake once of gluing the clean out try down…. It was after that I saw that sealant is applied AFTER the clean out tray has been installed. Some folks use DAP seal and peel which is easy to remove. Be careful tightening those screws that hold the clean out tray, they strip easily and you’ll have to go to oversized screws.

As far as the tubes go you’re going to have get something with a right angle on it and slowly work around the tubes to break the bond of the silicone. You might be able to use a thick feeler gauge or perhaps a small screw driver or putty knife from the inside and slide it up under the plastic and work your way around.

Those tubes do not need sealer, I put silicone grease on mine and they seal up fine. Once you get the clean out tray off you’ll need to clean all of the silicone sealer out from where the two surfaces interface.

Another thing you can do is block off that 3/4” drain line, it’s not necessary on our boats as there two large drain channels on either side of that area.

Have a good look at the clean out plug seals, if they’re cracked or deformed replace them.

Thanks again for the response.

I have a couple of tools and ideas for repurposing a few things that might fit the bill. Still sounds like its gonna be a PITA though.

So I think I am gonna sit tight on progressing on the bilge cover any further and put it on the backburner for now so I don't open up a can of worms or worse. Will take care of the drain line, tighten those cleanout hose clamps back up and carefully screw the bilge cover back in. I primarily use the livewell as a starboard ballast weight so its not something that I need to address immediately, but I will by the end of the year.

Plus! I still need to followup on your suggestion relating to the circuit breaker possibly being bad. That area is easily accessible compared to my unique bilge cover securements. lol. I also purchased the replacement screen you mentioned. Thanks again for that information sir.

I will be sure to provide any updates as they occur.