2020 Shoreland'r Trailer bunk board replacement

[anmut]

I just noticed that my front, STBD trailer bunk is probably cracked with just the carpet holding it together. I'm almost 100% certain I know the exact recovery when my wife came in a bit too hot and bounced off the bunk...

ANYWAY

I've got a treated 2x6 that I'll cut to 7'. I've got new carpet. Questions for those that have done this before:
1) Should I buy some new screws for the brackets? I haven't peeled back the carpet to reveal the old ones yet, but I'm guessing they're stainless. If not, I'll have to drill them out...
2) I'm going to prepare the replacement bunk at home and hit the local ramp early enough that I can launch the boat and then quickly swap the bunks out in the parking lot. Any gotchyas to look out for?

I for sure don't want to get caught with my pants down and an inoperable boat trailer because something doesn't fit or work...

 

[Floridaman79]

So i did mine fairly recently so can share some pictures. I am mostly in brackish and saltwater so mine may be in worse condition than yours.

Mine definitely needed new screws. Also the corrosion of the brackets contained by the carpet was much worse than the surrounding. I treated with ospho, then zinc paint. Also, I had to rip down the 2x6s on a table saw to fit the brackets, not much but enough that they wouldnt fit without attention. In this pic you can make out the condition of the screw.

Here are the brackets laid out. I took pics for the configuration because a few are different length so needed to make sure I put them back in the right spot. You can see the corrosion on the parts covered by the brackets here.

Lastly, I decided to go with bunk slides instead of carpet. My primary motivation was to allow a clearance so that I wasnt resting on the livewell pickup, secondly for better corrosion prevention so that saltwater soaked carpet wasnt surrounding the bracket, and third to allow more fender clearance. My concern was that the slides would scratch up the hull but so far that hasnt been an issue.

 

[Floridaman79]

One more thing to add, the brackets have to be removed from the trailer crossmembers to access the screws in the locations where the bunks overlap

 

[anmut]

Thank you, this is good stuff! Looks like I'm going to have a bigger job on my hands than I expected. You don't happen to remember the screw size at all, do you?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I would add to get some Kroil or AeroKroil and douse the bolts you need to work on each day for a few days ahead of time just to make sure everything comes apart easily when you go to make the switch. Kroil is a penetrating oil, the best I’ve ever used.

 

[KC-AR240]

I just noticed that my front, STBD trailer bunk is probably cracked with just the carpet holding it together. I'm almost 100% certain I know the exact recovery when my wife came in a bit too hot and bounced off the bunk...

ANYWAY

I've got a treated 2x6 that I'll cut to 7'. I've got new carpet. Questions for those that have done this before:
1) Should I buy some new screws for the brackets? I haven't peeled back the carpet to reveal the old ones yet, but I'm guessing they're stainless. If not, I'll have to drill them out...
2) I'm going to prepare the replacement bunk at home and hit the local ramp early enough that I can launch the boat and then quickly swap the bunks out in the parking lot. Any gotchyas to look out for?

I for sure don't want to get caught with my pants down and an inoperable boat trailer because something doesn't fit or work...

I just noticed this weekend that the exact same thing has happened to my trailer. But 8' board. Ordered the Carpet already

 

[Tjw961]

I did the boat slip parking lot swap out myself a couple years ago. Here's what I did, similar to what you mention:

Got new SS screws for bunks - ebay or Amazon I don't remember. Length of screw/bolt is important so measure twice thing if you order new ones. Simply took one out (should see two at each install location that goes into current bunk board) took measurement to get same size, and put back into board when done. Pull from board that looks to have No issues you can see. Boat was on the trailer when I did this and not moving the trailer in between bolt in/out.

On new bunk I used SS staples on new carpet, same thing you're doing got new bunks ready to go and just bolt down in parking lot. Electric staple gun is a life saver here btw if you don't own one.

Took Ridgid 18v drill I already owned with 3/8" socket adapter and correct size socket for new bunk screws connected to 3/8" socket adapter.
NOTE***Make sure you verify same size socket on existing bunk bolts, should be, but better to know you have the right tools/socket. If you have two different sizes of bolt head, have the right sockets with you.

Once you have new bunks fabricated, measure one end to the first bracket while at home with current bunk boards so you know how to position each new board (mine has two boards on each side being a 242 - total of 4 boards - but each side is mirror obviously of eachother. So only need two measurements here for 2 bunks on each side).

With all this prep I did, I pulled into a spot without shade on a hot day - Don't do that cause you're going to want to take your time here and do it once the right way. (though we're really talking 15-20 min to do this job) I took the drill and zipped off one board, put it aside, centered new bunk with proper measurement from one end (that I took earlier and wrote down at home) to the first bracket and brought some Kreg clamps I have (big ones) and temp clamped at each location the board so it stayed centered at each bracket to the bunk board on all brackets. (If you are lucky and have someone to help, you wouldn't need the clamps - I did myself and was easy with clamps for me) Came behind and put in one screw with drill at each location the clamp wasn't covering. Removed the clamps, and did the screw/bolt on the other side at each bracket. Done. Repeat for each board.
NOTE***don't try and bury the bunk screw/bolts into the wood. Flush tighten, and remember if new pressure treated wood it's wet right now so if you really go crazy with the drill or you'll be back later replacing that board cause you chewed up the hole with that screw that got overtightened. Snug and flush. You can always tighten more later, even with boat on it.

Honestly, it went so easy the way I did it I was checking each board over and over again thinking I must have missed something. Nope, worked out great and still is!

You can do it! Good luck, and can't wait to hear about it when you've finished it!

 

[Tjw961]

So i did mine fairly recently so can share some pictures. I am mostly in brackish and saltwater so mine may be in worse condition than yours.

Mine definitely needed new screws. Also the corrosion of the brackets contained by the carpet was much worse than the surrounding. I treated with ospho, then zinc paint. Also, I had to rip down the 2x6s on a table saw to fit the brackets, not much but enough that they wouldnt fit without attention. In this pic you can make out the condition of the screw.
View attachment 203921
Here are the brackets laid out. I took pics for the configuration because a few are different length so needed to make sure I put them back in the right spot. You can see the corrosion on the parts covered by the brackets here.
View attachment 203922
Lastly, I decided to go with bunk slides instead of carpet. My primary motivation was to allow a clearance so that I wasnt resting on the livewell pickup, secondly for better corrosion prevention so that saltwater soaked carpet wasnt surrounding the bracket, and third to allow more fender clearance. My concern was that the slides would scratch up the hull but so far that hasnt been an issue.
View attachment 203923

Love the slide idea. Have thought of doing this, but other things more important go first

Amazon.com

 

[KC-AR240]

I did the boat slip parking lot swap out myself a couple years ago. Here's what I did, similar to what you mention:

Got new SS screws for bunks - ebay or Amazon I don't remember. Length of screw/bolt is important so measure twice thing if you order new ones. Simply took one out (should see two at each install location that goes into current bunk board) took measurement to get same size, and put back into board when done. Pull from board that looks to have No issues you can see. Boat was on the trailer when I did this and not moving the trailer in between bolt in/out.

On new bunk I used SS staples on new carpet, same thing you're doing got new bunks ready to go and just bolt down in parking lot. Electric staple gun is a life saver here btw if you don't own one.

Took Ridgid 18v drill I already owned with 3/8" socket adapter and correct size socket for new bunk screws connected to 3/8" socket adapter.
NOTE***Make sure you verify same size socket on existing bunk bolts, should be, but better to know you have the right tools/socket. If you have two different sizes of bolt head, have the right sockets with you.

Once you have new bunks fabricated, measure one end to the first bracket while at home with current bunk boards so you know how to position each new board (mine has two boards on each side being a 242 - total of 4 boards - but each side is mirror obviously of eachother. So only need two measurements here for 2 bunks on each side).

With all this prep I did, I pulled into a spot without shade on a hot day - Don't do that cause you're going to want to take your time here and do it once the right way. (though we're really talking 15-20 min to do this job) I took the drill and zipped off one board, put it aside, centered new bunk with proper measurement from one end (that I took earlier and wrote down at home) to the first bracket and brought some Kreg clamps I have (big ones) and temp clamped at each location the board so it stayed centered at each bracket to the bunk board on all brackets. (If you are lucky and have someone to help, you wouldn't need the clamps - I did myself and was easy with clamps for me) Came behind and put in one screw with drill at each location the clamp wasn't covering. Removed the clamps, and did the screw/bolt on the other side at each bracket. Done. Repeat for each board.
NOTE***don't try and bury the bunk screw/bolts into the wood. Flush tighten, and remember if new pressure treated wood it's wet right now so if you really go crazy with the drill or you'll be back later replacing that board cause you chewed up the hole with that screw that got overtightened. Snug and flush. You can always tighten more later, even with boat on it.

Honestly, it went so easy the way I did it I was checking each board over and over again thinking I must have missed something. Nope, worked out great and still is!

You can do it! Good luck, and can't wait to hear about it when you've finished it!

Did you use a carpet glue also?

 

[Dixemon]

Love the slide idea. Have thought of doing this, but other things more important go first

Amazon.com

Just thinking out loud, those starboard type slides like you linked to amazon I believe would be a problem for where I boat. on steep ramps I don't think I would get the boat to stick. I find that it may be hard to load the boat by myself. If i pull into the perfect depth with carpet bunks i can get the boat to stay put on the trailer without sliding off, and only takes maybe 4 cranks before the bow is set in the roller. How does that work at the lakes you guys use? pretty level ramps or are they all different? I see @Floridaman79 used a Rib style slide, is it hard rubber or plastic? does the boat hang on the trailer without sliding back to bad?

 

[Floridaman79]

I havent really noticed that big of a difference in the friction. They are definitely less slick than I was expecting. I keep the safety chain attached until the boat is in the water but have never had it slip. When loading, i power on enough to get the boat on the bunks but not all the way to the bow roller. I end up winching about a foot or so. I did the same with the carpeted bunks.

 

[anmut]

I just noticed this weekend that the exact same thing has happened to my trailer. But 8' board. Ordered the Carpet already

Interesting - weird that the trailer would only be off a foot between a 21' and a 24' boat...

 

[anmut]

Just thinking out loud, those starboard type slides like you linked to amazon I believe would be a problem for where I boat. on steep ramps I don't think I would get the boat to stick. I find that it may be hard to load the boat by myself. If i pull into the perfect depth with carpet bunks i can get the boat to stay put on the trailer without sliding off, and only takes maybe 4 cranks before the bow is set in the roller. How does that work at the lakes you guys use? pretty level ramps or are they all different? I see @Floridaman79 used a Rib style slide, is it hard rubber or plastic? does the boat hang on the trailer without sliding back to bad?

Even with carpet I have to brake-check the boat after loading to get it to move up the 8" it slipped. No big deal, just part of the process.

 

[Tjw961]

Did you use a carpet glue also?

No, I did not use carpet glue on mine. Just SS staples, and left the backside of mine open so the wood could dry out easier vs. encasing it all the way around.

 

[Tjw961]

I haven't really noticed that big of a difference in the friction. They are definitely less slick than I was expecting. I keep the safety chain attached until the boat is in the water but have never had it slip. When loading, i power on enough to get the boat on the bunks but not all the way to the bow roller. I end up winching about a foot or so. I did the same with the carpeted bunks.

Ok, not trying to start anything here....honestly a Q since you've done this.

Any issue with these slides getting dust/dirt on them before you put the boat on and creating scratches on the boat? Reason I ask, is when I almost pulled the trigger on adding these it was due to loading issues. Since that time, my wife has gotten much more proficient in driving the boat on with a cross current for where we frequent most often. She doesn't back the trailer up well, so does the driving the boat on trailer part for those wondering why on approach here. Anyways....I'm still interested in one day putting these on but that was only Q I still wondered about after reading about these in other places.

How you mention boat loading above, is my experience on std carpet bunks today.

 

[Ronnie]

I replaced my pwc and boat trailer bunk boards a few years ago. Both times it was at the ramp parking lot with my boats moored as out of the way of the ramps as possible.

I recommend that you confirm that you can actually turn the nuts holding the bolts in place before you leave for the the marina.I had several that were rusted in place. So I brought a cut off wheel and compressor with me to the ramp.

I also installed bunk slides on top of the wrap around carpet, years later I see evidence of paint transfer on the slides.

 

[suke]

My carpet is wearing thin on one bunk on my 2020 shorlander trailer. How in the hell do these attach? Pulled the carpet back as I have carpet and adhesive arriving this morning. Old MFI trailer was simple with lag bolts. Are the screws on the side? What size? I'm trying to do a super quick boat ramp swap by having the bunks done at the ramp. If I also had to do all the stapling that's not a very quick swap.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

This is a great thread!

 

[suke]

Cut back the carpet.....ONE freaking screw!?! That's it!? OMG! How long is that screw? Looks in good shape could probably reuse it. I have some pretty good sized deck screws if I need it.

Just isn't going to be as fast as a swap as my old trailer was. I was able to do all the work at home, rip off the old board and bolt the new ones on in less than 30 mins.

 

[Floridaman79]

My carpet is wearing thin on one bunk on my 2020 shorlander trailer. How in the hell do these attach? Pulled the carpet back as I have carpet and adhesive arriving this morning. Old MFI trailer was simple with lag bolts. Are the screws on the side? What size? I'm trying to do a super quick boat ramp swap by having the bunks done at the ramp. If I also had to do all the stapling that's not a very quick swap.View attachment 204551View attachment 204552View attachment 204553

The bunks screw to the brackets from the side as you can see here:

When I removed mine I wasnt able to use the head of the screws on account of corrosion so I pried out or cut