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Another soundproofing thread... the RAAMat experience

swatski

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EDIT: For some reason I was having trouble finding this particular thread by @ridinpropless when I was starting this one. Out of many, many threads, it may be one of the best:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/i-think-i-finally-quieted-my-yamaha.10022/




The 2016 240s w/"quiet cruise" are big improvement in sound proofing. But some areas are still left vulnerable and need to be addressed. For example, the fuel tank hatch/cover is a big resonator -- still untouched from the factory. Along with the fuel tank / engine compartment / ski locker walls fore and aft. Basically, same as in the old boats...

So, I decided to start chipping away at it, as time will allow. It is a nasty job -- my hands are encrusted with fiberglass shards, bleeding, after just first few hours on the project. Oh, well.

This time I'm trying my luck with RAAMat and, so far, loving it. I got the "Package #1" for starters and really like both products: the BXT II seems like a great alternative to Dynamat Extreme, and the Ensolite which is kind of unique -- very pliable and relatively easy to work with.
http://www.raamaudio.com/categories/Mat-and-Foam-Products/
upload_2016-11-12_23-39-25.pngupload_2016-11-12_23-39-39.png

Here is what I accomplished thus far.

Fuel tank hatch got a double treatment on the inside, fairly strait forward. That thing is heavy.
upload_2016-11-12_23-27-54.pngupload_2016-11-12_23-28-22.png
upload_2016-11-12_23-29-12.pngupload_2016-11-12_23-29-35.png
When I reinstalled it, the RAAMat layers made the hatch sound like a tomb (good!)

I also stuck a layer of BXT II and worked in several layers of Ensolite to encase the engine comp wall.
upload_2016-11-12_23-37-6.pngupload_2016-11-12_23-37-35.png
upload_2016-11-12_23-38-2.png

And the opposite (fore).
upload_2016-11-12_23-43-31.pngupload_2016-11-12_23-43-51.pngupload_2016-11-12_23-44-11.png

And the same with the aft wall of the ski locker - those were all very resonant (before the deadening treatment)
upload_2016-11-12_23-45-28.pngupload_2016-11-12_23-45-49.png


As a side note, the fuel tank cover is a heavy fiberglass/FRP slab, but plenty of wood under the floor on the sides... (something to think about when installing SeaDek -- need to really seal those snap holes or it could be a mess down the road)
upload_2016-11-12_23-50-35.pngupload_2016-11-12_23-50-54.pngupload_2016-11-12_23-52-10.png


To be continued...

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zipper

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Very interested in this mod. over the winter. Will have to wail 5 mos. for spring, but would definitely like to add this for cruising comfort. Keep us posted on its performance.
 

Mainah

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@swatski - Wow you have been busy. I like your approach a lot and am following this. Wonder if seadek helps deaden the fuel hatch as well?
 

swatski

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@swatski - Wow you have been busy. I like your approach a lot and am following this. Wonder if seadek helps deaden the fuel hatch as well?
I would think that SeaDek does help, but I would think it is on par with the heavy rubberized carpet.

To me, the main issue besides direct engine noise is vibration that reverberates throughout. The "quiet ride" technology takes care of a lot of it, which is nice. New drive shaft couplers are huge help, and breaking down the stern voids (w/wet storage compartments) helps a lot, too, I think. In my 2012 SX190 (which is built like an acoustic guitar box -- and LOUDer than hell!) I actually went with a layer of Dynamat Extreme on top of the fuel hatch (under the SeaDek), and two layers underneath followed by three layers of foam... I will not be doing this here. So, just SeaDek over the top directly onto the deck surface. One reason is -- SeaDek cockpit kit comes in more (smaller) pieces nowadays and I just don't want to deal with it. Unless I feel like it for some reason, but with the deadening under the hatch I should be okay there.

Anyway, nothing new here. But, every little bit helps -- that's what I have learned. Mass loading mats (like the BXT II, Dynamat, etc.) have limited power here (FRB/fiberglass is just so much thicker that sheet metal in a car). I really like that RAAMat Ensolite, so pliable -- makes it possible to stuff it into all the nooks and crannies.

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Mainah

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IMO vibration is a major cause of the remaining noise. Think of all of the surface area of the fiberglass in the boat. While the oscillation is low is very low in amplitude it adds up over the given suface area. Adding sound proofing is of course a balance between space, weight, and effectiveness so placing and using it strategically is a must. I am very interested in your results.
 

Bruce

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@swatski, how do you feel about these products for replacing the foam on the engine hatch on my boat?
 

swatski

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@swatski, how do you feel about these products for replacing the foam on the engine hatch on my boat?
Probably too thin to go with single layers of each and call it a day, you would need multiple layers. BXT II is very heavy, so I would think at least one layer of BXT II and then multiple layers of Ensolite, which would be not too bad of an install. Or maybe an egg crate foam on top? Although I do really like Ensolite as it is super easy to install.

I made a mistake with the old boat, had like 6 layers of Dynamat and a bunch of other $hit. At the end of the day it worked, but there are easier, softer ways... I had to make many adjustments for the hatch to close and it was a ridiculous amount of work.

The new boats have an egg crate type of thick foam.

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blacksapphirez

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i got a fire resistant soundproof mat from ebay put over the engine and the fuel tank area. it significantly reduced the engine noise. i can now hear voices in the cockpit while underway. i saw no adverse affect on the operation of the boat. ran long and hard during hot summer and the mat was same as the day i put in.
 

swatski

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The other area are bulkheads in the stern. And that is another area where the new boats offer NO improvement out of the factory.

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i got a fire resistant soundproof mat from ebay put over the engine and the fuel tank area. it significantly reduced the engine noise. i can now hear voices in the cockpit while underway. i saw no adverse affect on the operation of the boat. ran long and hard during hot summer and the mat was same as the day i put in.
Can you kindly elaborate?
 

swatski

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swatski

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swatski

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Ty @swatski , did he literally lay the mat over the engine or install it a certain way?
I'm assuming he lined the inside of the engine hatch/cover. Most here remove the flimsy OEM foam, apply whatever they think will work best, and re-install the OEM foam. Most of these products are peel-and-stick, or use spray adhesive.

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Bruce

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Swatski, I am sure you saw but I built 1/2" oak bulkheads and covered them with dynamat extreme on the inside. The simple addition of bulkheads made a big difference in the sound level.
 

Bill D

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@BakedZiti, it was literally just laid over the engines as a test. On @blacksapphirez recommendation I bought the same material. I plan to cut pieces and layer the walls of the engine compartment, but for a temporary solution, there were no ill effects of having it laid over the top of the engines.
 

swatski

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Swatski, I am sure you saw but I built 1/2" oak bulkheads and covered them with dynamat extreme on the inside. The simple addition of bulkheads made a big difference in the sound level.
Yes, Sir. I reread that whole thread which is linked to your bulkhead mods, too.
Those are number 1 areas on my target list now.

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swatski

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I went back to work (the weather has been crazy nice, even though the days are so short).
Man, I forgot what a miserable job soundproofing these boats was! I made some good progress though ran out of materials.

Started on the inside of the big starboard storage compartment. Funny how nothing has changed -- when you pull that thin carpet off of the walls and bulkheads -- it's just raw fiberglass and plywood:

upload_2016-11-15_23-42-17.pngupload_2016-11-15_23-46-41.png
upload_2016-11-15_23-47-36.png

I covered it pretty good with double layer of BXT II, which ended up being more like one and a half really:
upload_2016-11-15_23-49-47.pngupload_2016-11-15_23-50-3.png

And the same with Ensolite on top of BXT (under the carpet):
upload_2016-11-15_23-52-18.pngupload_2016-11-15_23-52-39.png

Same process to cover the little bulkhead that encloses the front of the compartment:
upload_2016-11-15_23-54-14.png

And finally the OEM carpet reinstall w/spray adhesive:
upload_2016-11-15_23-55-15.png

Next I tackled the bulkhead in the engine compartment. That is an awful job as it requires crawling inside those compartments which are really deep (hate it).
But, turned out quite okay:
upload_2016-11-15_23-59-35.png

Followed it up on the inside, which takes forever:
upload_2016-11-16_0-0-36.pngupload_2016-11-16_0-1-21.png

Started working on the back of the engine compartment, which is covered with OEM foam sheets (embarrassingly easy to remove):
upload_2016-11-16_0-2-46.pngupload_2016-11-16_0-3-19.png

I reinstalled the OEM foam (w/o Ensolite here):
upload_2016-11-16_0-15-51.png

Started working on the helm storage compartment, which is like a big acoustic guitar box, but that is when I ran out if materials.
upload_2016-11-16_0-17-13.png

So, to be continued when I resupply, and weather permitting. :D

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swatski

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I may have finally found the right type of seal to go around the engine hatch!

I my old 190 I have tried 4 or 5 different types of weather stripping foam/rubber and settled on some "neoprene" pipe insulation split-tubes, but I was never too happy as those would rip easily and did not fit or look great. Part of the difficulty is also finding a seal w/the right thickness, as too much material will pressure the hinges and the hatch won't close (as I know all too well from past experience, LOL).

This particular seal is designed for garage doors... which sounds weird. But it is actually almost perfect, I think. Made out of some heavy duty neoprene, it is strong and does not rip easily, but is soft enough and very rubbery/springy. Not a peel-n-stick but I use some CRC spray adhesive that works well on those things.
(In my experience the key is to let the adhesive air dry for 5-10min after spraying the pieces, before placing/positioning them together).

upload_2016-11-18_0-43-51.pngupload_2016-11-18_0-44-17.png
upload_2016-11-18_0-44-53.pngupload_2016-11-18_0-45-16.png
The way I installed it is w/the small edge on the outside.

Hopefully I can get out this weekend (if the weather holds) and do some testing on the water. Since I can only work on the mods in the evenings, can't really test anything on the hose.

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Mainah

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@swatski - Are you keeping track of how much weight all of this is adding?
 
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