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Best Trailer Tongue Jack

Do the double wheels hit the trailer when the jack is horizontal for towing? I’d like to do something using the stock mount like this but my trailer is painted instead of galvanized & I don’t want it getting beat up.
The Tractor supply jack works great! spend the extra on Trim Tabs the Wife will thank you! Tracks straighter, cuts the waves better, rides better!
 
Thanks. That’s a great feature but that one is a little too pricey for me.
I’m still trying to explain to my wife why we “had to” get the cobra jet fins that showed up this week.
I park in gravel, and have kids jumping around in the bow when I’m working on it on the trailer. The XO750 is just an awesome jack. I feel way more comfortable moving around inside the boat when on the trailer. The stock jack just feels so flimsy.
 
I park in gravel, and have kids jumping around in the bow when I’m working on it on the trailer. The XO750 is just an awesome jack. I feel way more comfortable moving around inside the boat when on the trailer. The stock jack just feels so flimsy.
The jack I showed is very stable, lifts higher , twice as heavy as stock, easy to crank , Dual wheels and goes in the stock spot for $69 with leftover money for Trim tabs!
 
Having some issues with my install of my ARK XO500 on my 19' Shorelandr trailer. I went with the XO500 as opposed to the XO750 because I thought the XO750 would have been overkill for my trailer. In any case, I went and tried to install it BUT the way the jack plate is supposed to align, the holes on the plate are not tall enough. If I turn it the other way, the bolts can go through. Do you think there would be any issue with aligning the plate the other way - or should I just return in and go with the XO750?

Jack 1.jpgJack 2.jpg
Jack 750.png
 
Emailed ARK and they got back to me pretty quickly and they said that the plate is made to be mounted in either orientation so I'm good to go.
 
Emailed ARK and they got back to me pretty quickly and they said that the plate is made to be mounted in either orientation so I'm good to go.
I’m no expert, but I agree it should be fine. ?

Also, after you get the nuts started but before tight, crank it down to get a little weight on it. You want the bottom bolts up against the tongue and the gap at the top. It will be less likely to slide as you use it that way. Over time, it would end ip in that position anyway.
 
Yup, That was the plan! Just purchased longer bolts from Home Depot and will do the install tomorrow.


I’m no expert, but I agree it should be fine. ?

Also, after you get the nuts started but before tight, crank it down to get a little weight on it. You want the bottom bolts up against the tongue and the gap at the top. It will be less likely to slide as you use it that way. Over time, it would end ip in that position anyway.
 
Ok here are my answers.

1) Well over 500lbs before. Low to mid 300's now. I purchased

2) Weight about 8%. For me. This is a religious battle with some so I am not going to get into it.
3) Bunks were not moved.
4) It tows much better and the back of my expedition is level. Definitely not as bouncy and jerky.
5) Unloading - I read your explanation of how you do it above and I cannot relate. Not sure why. Basically I launch boat every time without engines. Actually I have never used the engines unloading (although I have the blower motor on - Important :)) I take off the Boat Buckles in the staging area. Then when I line up for the ramp, since I don't know which side I am going on, I back up till the transom is over the water. I hope out, the Admiral has two lines in here hand. One goes on the the front cleat and the other on the mid cleat or the tower, depending what the dock looks like. I remove strap and safety. The Admiral will take both lines and run then along the boat and around the back of the Guide Post, so they won't get hung up. I then back the boat into the water and when the back end starts to float a bit i tap the break good and the boat starts floating backward. Soon as it moves a couple of feet, I then start pulling out and the admiral just pulls it close to the dock. Now if there is a good wind, when I pull up I will hop out real quick and help her. She is 5' 11" and 140 lbs, and has no problem.
Loading - I get the trailer while the boat is tied to the dock or the Admiral holding it. I back the trailer up into the water a couple feet and make sure it is strait. Then I go switch with the her and I untie the boat and back out slowly with the engines. She will then start backing up straight till I hold up my hand and tell her to stop. I only sink the front trailer fenders an inch or so under water and have no issue loading the boat. I do not pay attention to where the bunks are. I do only drive the boat up till it stops on the bunks which makes the bow about 2' from the Winch. Basically get the boat moving slowly toward the trailer and once the bow passes the guides I kill the engines and let the forward momentum glide on nice and smooth., and it self centers. Then I hook it up and winch it on the rest of the way, effortless really. Then when we start coming up the ramp she does the 5mph hard stop and the boat snugs up a couple of inches very nice. I crank about a half turn till tight and it is perfect every time. I do use the 60" C.E. Smith Trailer Guides on the trailer as well. I have 1.5 inch clearance from guide posts to boat on both sides. To date I have not miss loaded all summer, circa 25 outings or so and have not had an issue........ Well it got tricky in fast moving river launch that I have never done before. 7-9 mph current. Not fun but got her on, on the second try.

Hopefully my answers help you. This is how I do it, and it works for me and us.
On your guide posts: 1 1/2" at the stern or at the widest point of the beam? My posts are about 4-5" at the stern to allow for the beam to clear. The posts will flex, so I can move them in if you think that's the way to do it. I haven't driven the boat on yet, but I use dock lines just like you. First time out I put the bumpers on first...that won"t work....LOL
 
My posts are about 4-5" at the stern to allow for the beam to clear. The posts will flex, so I can move them in if you think that's the way to do it. I haven't driven the boat on yet, but I use dock lines just like you. First time out I put the bumpers on first...that won"t work....LOL

I was quite proud of myself for remembering to have all of my fenders inside the boat for launching and retrieval...until the 2nd time retrieving and forgot my bumpers LOL

The posts WILL flex, but eventually, you're stressing the mounting plates and those bolts, as that's the only thing keeping them in place. I try not to USE the flex, simply remember that it's there and let it give me some forgiveness.

If your posts are at the rear of the trailer, it won't matter how close they are to the stern, you need the widest part of your boat to fit between them, which you've figured out already. I found with where mine are mounted, I needed even a bit more room, as the ratchet straps for the cover would get hung up. Didn't need much, just another inch or whatever it was.

I've never done anything OTHER than driven my boat on, as there's no finger dock alongside the launch I use. Drop my driver off, go back around to circle and make sure I've got all ropes/fenders inside the boat, and then drive on when the trailer arrives.
 
Emailed ARK and they got back to me pretty quickly and they said that the plate is made to be mounted in either orientation so I'm good to go.
I had to do the same exact thing. It’ll be fine
 
Can't find the "Black Edition" ARK XO750 anywhere ? Amazon says "not currently available ... don't know when or if it will be". ARK website just says "out of stock". Either so popular from all the forum members buying them they can't keep em in stock OR a total bust and no longer in production ?
 
Can't find the "Black Edition" ARK XO750 anywhere ? Amazon says "not currently available ... don't know when or if it will be". ARK website just says "out of stock". Either so popular from all the forum members buying them they can't keep em in stock OR a total bust and no longer in production ?

I would venture to say 99% of those who have bought one of these for their boat would find it hilarious to think these could be considered as a total bust.

There have been product availability issues on the black version for at least 3 years that I can verify, and given the supply chain issues currently for EVERYTHING, it's not surprising that it's unavailable right now.

The black version seems to be one of those items that you aren't going to be looking to buy just because your old jack fails, rather, you like the durability of the design no matter the color and you finally decide to pull the trigger, but you additionally decide to "treat" yourself.

It was spendier by A LOT, when I got mine. I still have my OEM jack, and IF anything happened to my 750, I'd suffer with it while waiting to repurchase another black one.
 
Got the XO500 mounted and this thing is a beast compared to the OEM jack. I took a weight measurement on the OEM jack and it was at 400lbs so the ARK is more than enough to carry the load. As you can see, I couldn't mount it in front of the bow stop as I would have had to move it back more than 6" to be able to mount the new jack but I think this location will be just fine. I think I'm going to feel a lot safer now with the new jack. Now, time to squeeze in a wrench to remove the old jack.

New jack.jpg
 
@drewkaree , there was a lot of sarcasm behind the "total bust" comment but you did accurately pick up on my reason for wanting to make the purchase. Zink would obviously work just a well but black would be my first choice.
 
Got the XO500 mounted and this thing is a beast compared to the OEM jack. I took a weight measurement on the OEM jack and it was at 400lbs so the ARK is more than enough to carry the load. As you can see, I couldn't mount it in front of the bow stop as I would have had to move it back more than 6" to be able to mount the new jack but I think this location will be just fine. I think I'm going to feel a lot safer now with the new jack. Now, time to squeeze in a wrench to remove the old jack.

View attachment 148977
400lbs sounds like too much tongue weight. I would properly balance you boat with proper tongue weight, which will move you boat back as well as the winch post. Something tells me it is going to be just enough to put in front or damn close.
 
Here's the installation video!


As Daren recommends I got the 4 1/2" Stainless 1/2 " Bolts and Nuts..the supplied mounting bolts are not long enough for our tongues...haha
Great Video Daren!
 
Total weight of the trailer and boat is about 3580lbs with a full tank of gas. 400lbs at the jack puts it at about 11%. Isn't the recommended tongue weight no less than 10% and no more than 15%?

400lbs sounds like too much tongue weight. I would properly balance you boat with proper tongue weight, which will move you boat back as well as the winch post. Something tells me it is going to be just enough to put in front or damn close.
 
If you have a shorelander trailer they recommend between 5 - 7%. I am running mine right at 8%. Search tongue weight on here it is a debated topic.
 
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