Broken Spark Plug

[lazergeek]

My shit weekend of boat maintenance started with lubing my steering cable that abruptly got stiff on my outing Friday and ended with a seized / broken spark plug on Starboard #1 cylinder (front Cylinder) when doing my 50 hours service. I was able to twist the plug a few degrees initially and back, but it never broke free, I soaked in WD40 since that was all I had available then when I retried the plug snapped off. (at least the steering cable is usable now)

The dealer claimed to have replaced the plugs on my 10 hours service last year. I don’t see any corrosion on the plug so I’m not sure if it was galvanic corrosion or the dealer cross threaded the plug. All the other plugs released right away. I viewed the other broken spark plug threads here. Do I try PB Blaster and an EZ Out to remove myself or press the dealer to see what they are willing to do? I assume my YES will not cover?
Let me know your thoughts, hints, or tips.

 

[steveinmd]

I think a square ez out is the preferred method here. Definitely need a good penetrant.

 

[lazergeek]

I think a square ez out is the preferred method here. Definitely need a good penetrant.

Thanks, I already have the sprial type. Looking at the reviews for the square style most look like they break easly. do you have experence with any paticular band? I also saw @Cobra Jet Steering LLC recommendation to use a manual impact driver with the extractor.

 

[steveinmd]

Thanks, I already have the sprial type. Looking at the reviews for the square style most look like they break easly. do you have experence with any paticular band? I also saw @Cobra Jet Steering LLC recommendation to use a manual impact driver with the extractor.

No, was just researching in case we had issues with my buddy's 2004. Didnt end up needing it. The going theory is the spiral type will spread the remaining spark plug piece in the head.

 

[lazergeek]

No, was just researching in case we had issues with my buddy's 2004. Didnt end up needing it. The going theory is the spiral type will spread the remaining spark plug piece in the head.

Makes Since. I saw that on a youtube video too.

 

[lazergeek]

Tried to tackel this today. I had it soaking with PB Blaster all week when I went back to it today realized I needed to remove more of the porcelain to get the easy out in far enough so had to run to home depot to get carbide tip bits. I could not get the square extractor to bite. I did get the spiral extactor to bite and used the hand held impact driver but could not get it to bust loose, switching to the ratched the easy out looses its bite before it breaks free. Treid freezing with canned air as well with the same result. I forgot my torch to heat it up too so that is my plan with my next attempt.

 

[tdonoughue]

Wow. That is in there. Will need to wait until it is out, but my bet is on cross-threading...

Did you drill before you did the square extractor? Are you trying to bite on the residual metal or is there still porcelain in there? Might need a deeper hole to get that one to bite.

 

[lazergeek]

Im wondering if its cross threaded too, especially since the boat is only 18 months old and only 50 hours. If it is, the dealer did it or came from the factory that way as the dealer did the 10 hour service last year and claimed they changed the spark plugs for the service. I drilled before trying the square extractor but your right I probably have to drill deeper to get better bite. Im just worried about drilling all the way through the plug, although drilling the porceline is a pain in the ass and slow going.

 

[scokill]

There are folks that have had to pull the head and take to machine shop. Hopefully you get it out.

 

[lazergeek]

I'm ready to throw in the towel and pull the head. Extractors are not gripping tight enough to break it free and its just grinding down the plug body. I cant get enough of the porcelean out to get them in any further. Any further ideas?

 

[Neutron]

Any debris is going into the cylinder can ruin the walls and rings if it isn't completely cleaned out. With such low hours i would pull the head or take it to a place that is better equipped to get it out

 

[Neutron]

If you are pretty mechanical its not really hard to pull that head. There is plenty here to get you through this. If you were close to me i would definitely help you pull that head in a heartbeat

 

[lazergeek]

If you are pretty mechanical its not really hard to pull that head. There is plenty here to get you through this. If you were close to me i would definitely help you pull that head in a heartbeat

Thanks, Im going to call around to get quotes this week but most likley will just pull the head myself to save the $$$. I have the service manual already, hopfully I dont have to pull the engine for the TR1. The overhead cams are scaring me a little bit for the reassembly part. It looks like I need to order new head bolts and gaskets so hopfully they are available.

 

[Neutron]

Thanks, Im going to call around to get quotes this week but most likley will just pull the head myself to save the $$$. I have the service manual already, hopfully I dont have to pull the engine for the TR1. The overhead cams are scaring me a little bit for the reassembly part. It looks like I need to order new head bolts and gaskets so hopfully they are available.

To be honest its easy if you take a few precautions. Pull the rest of the plugs, turn the engine by the rear coupler. take the valve cover off, make sure number one cylinder is at top dead center with both valves closed, And take a picture of the cam position, make your own white paint marks on the chain and gears. Makes its much easier on reassembly .
Then take off front cover and make marks there on the block, gear, and chain also

 

[lazergeek]

To be honest its easy if you take a few precautions. Pull the rest of the plugs, turn the engine by the rear coupler. take the valve cover off, make sure number one cylinder is at top dead center with both valves closed, And take a picture of the cam position, make your own white paint marks on the chain and gears. Makes its much easier on reassembly .
Then take off front cover and make marks there on the block, gear, and chain also

So overall is it easier to remove the engine and put back then trying to remove the heads while on the boat? My issue with removing the engine if it truely makes it that much easier is not having a way to lift it out of the boat.

 

[Neutron]

So overall is it easier to remove the engine and put back then trying to remove the heads while on the boat? My issue with removing the engine if it truely makes it that much easier is not having a way to lift it out of the boat.

That depends on how much room you have around it to work with. If there is no clearance in the front or sides to get the front cover, intake , and exhaust off then yes sometimes its easier to pull the engine. I am not familiar with the amount of room around the engines in your boat

 

[lazergeek]

That depends on how much room you have around it to work with. If there is no clearance in the front or sides to get the front cover, intake , and exhaust off then yes sometimes its easier to pull the engine. I am not familiar with the amount of room around the engines in your boat

I guess I can give it a shot and see what how it goes. I think Im good on the sides and once the airbox is out of the way front may be ok too. Regarding the camshafts, Can I just remove the sprockets to free the chain but leave the camshafts mounted?

 

[Neutron]

I guess I can give it a shot and see what how it goes. I think Im good on the sides and once the airbox is out of the way front may be ok too. Regarding the camshafts, Can I just remove the sprockets to free the chain but leave the camshafts mounted?

Doubtful because usually the cams are in the way of the head bolts

 

[tdonoughue]

Might be too late, but if this is likely a cross thread from the factory, you can take it and make a warranty claim on it... In which case I would not yet pull the head (unless they deny the claim saying you made things worse, which they may do (not that I think you made things worse--that is what they may SAY in order to justify denying the claim)).

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Well if you are not getting any where place a long bolt in the broken plug long enough to allow you to get in the opening and weld it to the plug body this will allow you to unscrew the remainder of the plug in and out not just out, if needed and the heat will loosen the plug and allow you to get it out easier the bolt should be as wide as you can fit in the center of the plug and it should be a longer than the depth of the hole so you can get to it with a welding rod or use a rod with no head and weld it to the plug then weld a big nut on top of the rod this will give you moor room to weld it into the plug I can tell you how to clean the cylinder after you get the plug out . Damn sure wort a try use 6011 rods.