Pulled the end part of the pumps last night to get at the cones. I pulled the cones at 43 hours in spring / early summer of 2021 when I first started messing around with high altitude impellers, put in some more EPNOC grease and reinstalled using the oem O rings as upon very close inspection they appeared good, the manual states to install new O rings. My boat now has 255 hrs on it, and probably 860 hours of immersion since pulling the cones.
Starboard;
Port;
As you can see, there is a very small amount of moisture contamination in the starboard grease, and the port is fine. I’ll wipe it all out, going to get some pipe cleaners from hobby lobby or a smoke shop to clean the grease out from in between the ball bearings re pack, install new O rings and go forth! That little water droplet at 7 O’ Clock was in the sealing surface and not from inside. I probably should have put in new O rings when I initially pulled them…duh. So now I’ll make this an annual maintenance item.
Found this:
https://www.eneos.co.jp/english/products/lubricants/pdf/grs-7037-2302e.pdf
Anchor locker hatch & bow roller, these items will show up in another post but since I listed it above I’ll post a pic here.
After getting the hinge installed, I was standing there on the deck like I would if I was working the anchor, man!, what a huge difference in how roomy that feels instead of having to reach over that darn hatch when it flipped straight back! I put two 4” & one 7” pieces of 3/4” aluminum angle to support the hatch for sight casting. The bow roller is a Lewmar, can’t remember the manufacturer of the quick cleat.
@MrBubbaGump I used the stainless hinge that
@Dixemon used. You’ll need a countersink bit to get clearance when the hinge is in the closed position between the screw heads. Be careful when you are attaching the hinge to the anchor locker hatch, it’s plenty thick but you’ll be close to the edge, so care is needed to keep from blowing out the edge. After yiur pilot holes are drilled, run each screw in ahead of actually mounting, run in till the screw gets tight, then back out a couple of turns, then back till it gets tight and so on until the screw is fully seated, then mount the hatch. It takes a bit to get the hinge laid out, just take your time and you’ll get it sorted. The same is true when mounting the support blocks, use a piece of decently thick stainless steel wire and make a T with the wire, with one end sharpened as a marking tool, slip the T in the gap between the boat and the hatch, turn it sideways and pull along the underside to mark the boat side, put in one screw in the middle of your support brackets to check for proper height, slot that hole as necessary to get the height correct, then mark the other holes using the support bracket as a guide. The other two to three screws will provide the load support, and the one you elongated will still supply support. Any questions please ask! Oh, and you gotta hold your mouth just right while doing this. Lol!
Ran this 1&1/2” x 1/4” aluminum bar from the bow eye bolts to the bottom of the aluminum block (old bow cleat mounting location) the roller mounts to for two reasons, to support the old bow cleat location and provide a place to mount a proper 8” cleat to do a secure rode tie off to, or a place to tie the bow off to at the dock.
I made filler plugs by using a 1&3/8” hole saw on a scrap piece of 2x6” wood and glue them in with 5200. These were mainly to provide support to the 3/8” bolts for the aluminum adapter block. I had envisioned just enlarging the arbor hole from the whole saw, but, Boats being what they are, and then placing the block where it fit best had the bolt locations where you see them. The aluminum block will get bedded with 4200. I still have to paint the block, and will post the finished project pics in another thread.
Next will be pulling the bearing buddies to check for water contamination of the wheel bearing grease, check bearing play, check the calipers for proper movement and tightness, and I’d like to get a mighty mini vac to bleed the brakes, and lube the grease points on the equalizers. that’ll get me rolling down the road in good shape.
Once the weather is consistently nicer, we will get after the hard top install, vhf radio, lighting, and possibly the rain fly from the hard top over the bow. Going to have to have the Yamaha mooring cover modified for the bow roller as well.
This was the first test fit of the hard top…
this time.