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Building my Basement Bar

AboveTheBest

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@AboveTheBest framers finished up today. Here is the skeleton of my bar. I’m going to start a basement thread soon.

View attachment 89204View attachment 89205
Very cool!

I love the bulkheads around the bar. I’ll probably end up adding one later and using some kind of tin inside the bulkhead/above the bar. I’ll be interested to see your progress.

I just filled in the air bubble holes in the top of my counter after work, and will be final sanding/sealing it tomorrow.
 

MattFX4

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I’ll keep you updated. I have to finish electrical and have plumbing done then drywall will go in. I’m also thinking of doing tin in the interior ceiling or some type of wood
 

AboveTheBest

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OK, please tell me you don't have drywall in yet. Please Please Please don't have drywall in yet. I'm going to work off the assumption that you don't. If you do, then all of the below changes.

Go projector if (AND ONLY IF) you have an easy way to hide the light during the day. Unless you're willing to drop $4-5k on a nice diamond screen it WILL washout in high sunlight areas. Even with the fancy screen, you'll have some washout. You're going to want a high lumen projector as well to help with that. With that said, VERY large screens are easily made with a project. My best friend has a 128in screen in his living room using a projector. He sits about 12-15ft away and it looks GIANT......ut we have to close all the draperies in front of the windows when we want to watch. I have a 55in mounted on the wall above my stairwell to the basement (12ft ceilings as well), and can watch with all the windows open on a sunny day with only minor glare. I'll be moving to a 75in here soon as we're now about 14ft away from the TV and it feels a little small. Saw a 90in Samsung 4k display at Sams last week. Almost brought it home with me. I think it was $1,700. The projector will be more $/in of screen than a regular display will.

Consider what you are watching, and where the sources and output are. You want to either place pathways (conduit/etc) into the walls NOW, or hardwire into the walls now. Sources are things like cable boxes, BluRay Players, ROku's Fire Sticks/etc. Outputs are both video and audio. You'll need to run outputs to the device making the picture, and you'll want signal wires ran to speakers/soundbar etc. One of the best things I did when we built our house was install a cable chase between the attic space and the furnace room. It's a simple 2in PVC pipe in a wall that joins the two spaces. I've already used it 3-4 times in the few years we've lived here. put your pathways in NOW before drywall goes in, and take a TON of pictures of it while you're doing it. Those reference pictures and pathways will save you so much headache in the future if you need to run something new.

Here is the VERY simple pathway I put in. This is standing on the 1st floor looking into the attic space above (before drywall)
View attachment 88939

This is the view from the basement furnace room. It's seriously nothing fancy at all.
View attachment 88940

You should also consider sound while in this phase of planning. Is a soundbar under the TV with a bluetooth sub enough for you? Do you want a nice 5.1 or 7.2 surround setup? How much is enough. For the wife and I, in the main living space, a simple soundbar is plenty. We'll be adding a "theater system" to the basement in the future. I suggest a sound bar at the bare minimum. I think our's was like $150 during black Friday, and it looks very nice under the TV. It sounds good enough that watching a movie isn't disappointing, but it's not a concert hall reproduction either. Buddy I mentioned above has an in-wall 7.2 setup with his giant screen. Movies and sporting events are AMAZING to watch there, but the equipment is obvious, and a bit overkill for watching something like the evening news, or your basic sit-com.

Here's our "daily driver" setup at home. It's a 55in Samsung with a Samsung sound bar under it. Bluetooth subwoofer sits just to the right of that table in the foreground. Getting all the wires in the wall was KEY to making it look presentable. The lighting in this pic is terrible, and I can take a better pic tonight if you're interested. Overall, it's a great, inexpensive, and simple setup. Hopefully that will jump to a 75in in the near future, as you can tell it looks a little small in that placement.
View attachment 88941

The big thing IMO is to find a system that s right for you. If you are an audiophile and 4k enthusiast, my daily driver setup is NOT for you. If you're just unwinding for a bit at the end of the day, or watching the occasional movie with the kids, it might fit you well. I used to think you had to have a 5.1 with in wall speakers to really have anything worthwhile. Not anymore. It's neat to have, but not really value add on a day to day basis.

I used to do a good number of high end installations for both commercial and residential applications, so I've got experience planning the install, both in a finished and an new construction space. I'm not great at component selection, and am somewhat out of touch on the state of the art though. Had a couple guys in the office that would always do that part for me once I had the customers I/O figured out. Be glad to help where I can.
@2kwik4u had a good idea he mentioned in another thread regarding mailing conduits for AV and other wire pulls later on.

It could be SCH 40 or some PVC like he used, but it’s probably a good idea so you can upgrade to better/newer cables later if needed. It would be easy to do it now before drywall even if you never need it.
 

AboveTheBest

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I filled the holes and then sanded with 120 and then 220 for about an hour.

I think it’s looking pretty amazing, and it hard to believe I made this in my basement. The sealer will go on tomorrow and then it’ll be set in place so I can finish the plumbing.

39972C0E-A815-4EE4-863C-686A444DF290.jpeg9ED2327C-F0BA-4FA0-A1E0-C283C7C1E1B8.jpeg
 

dnicholas47

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swatski

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2kwik4u

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AboveTheBest

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Putting that in place was more difficult than expected. I may need to recruit a second neighbor to move the 350lb counter.

BEBBE73B-C6EE-4376-B0FC-01F1028BD0AB.jpeg
 

swatski

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You should leave the backside of those overhead bulkheads open for storage of plates/napkins/barware/etc. That is great usable space for misc stuff you'll want to have back there!
Sure.. if you are 6'5". If you under 6' - one would need a ladder, lol.

--
 

MattFX4

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Sure.. if you are 6'5". If you under 6' - one would need a ladder, lol.

--
Lol yeah those are 9’ ceilings and the bulkheads drop down 16” so would a step ladder or something.
 

4x15mph

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I am redoing our basement floor and was going to replace the counter on our bar with quartz or other. I will change to cement now reading this. Great thread and info
 

swatski

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I am redoing our basement floor and was going to replace the counter on our bar with quartz or other. I will change to cement now reading this. Great thread and info
I’ll tell you though, @AboveTheBest work looks to me to be really good. He either has tremendous beginners luck, lol, or he’s withholding information about special expertise. I wouldn’t expect the same results, necessarily. Just saying.

 

dnicholas47

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I’ll tell you though, @AboveTheBest work looks to me to be really good. He either has tremendous beginners luck, lol, or he’s withholding information about special expertise. I wouldn’t expect the same results, necessarily. Just saying.

You would be surprised. I did pour in place, but they also turned out great and I have no idea what I’m doing. Just followed the YouTube video from the company I bought the stuff from.
 

AboveTheBest

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@swatski you’re giving me too much credit...

It’s really not that hard, just take your time.
 

4x15mph

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@AboveTheBest , is that a pickup tailgate turned into a bench? You really are above the best and I agree with @swatski that I shouldn't expect the same quality results as you. Nice work
 

drewkaree

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In doing way more research on something I haven't yet done, I can add a tip that I can vouch for. If doing the mold and flip version of these instead of pour in place, if you want a super slick and shiny finish right out of the mold, line your mold bottom with plexiglass. You generally use melamine panels to create your mold, which will yield the finish the OP got. The plexiglass will add a bit of cost, but you don't need anything other than the slickness of the plexi, so you get the absolute thinnest you can find - it's just for a stellar finish. The other thing is to run a sander or some other vibratory method around the form, and I wouldn't bother with the sides of the form, just along the bottom to settle it against the plexi, which will still work on the sides as well. This is what I will be doing when the time comes for my project, along with a rubber edge mold for a "natural look" on the front edges.
 

MattFX4

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What is standard bar height? It’s 42” right? My framing is 42” tall so if I go with 1” or 2” thick counters it will be 43-44”. Is that ideal? Or should finished bar be 42” with counter?
 

AboveTheBest

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Standard is 42” for a bar, 36” for a counter.

My counter is 36”, but my bar is 42” at one end and 41” at the other due to the uneven cement floor I had to start with.

43-44” will be fine. Get some adjustable stools and nobody will have any idea it’s not “standard”.
 

drewkaree

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Standard finished height to the top of your bar should be 42". Subtract the height of your countertop thickness to come up with the dimensions for the top of your framing. There's absolutely nothing saying you can't have something higher though. It's your bar, it can be as custom as you want it. In my case, for some bathroom counters, my plan was to raise it 3-4" higher than standard. In your case, standard seating options will still fit underneath. You're good :thumbsup:
 
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