Check your trailer bunk boards!!

[drewkaree]

Was also surprised at how much quieter the trailer is now!

What do you think was the thing that contributed to the reduction in sound, the screws, or.....?

Last time I changed bunks (for a previous boat a seadoo 230 SE), I used preassure treated 2 x 6 lumber and then 3 coats of deck stain/waterproofer, then the bunk carpet, monel staples, galvanized lag screws and epoxy on the lag screws to keep as much moister off of them, and water intrusion around them as possible - maybe overkill...but worked like a charm for loggevity and not much more cost/labor.

You forgot the roofing tar and plastic wrap!

 

[props2you]

What do you think was the thing that contributed to the reduction in sound, the screws, or.....?

@drewkaree Great question, it was significantly quieter, my wife and I were baffled and had the conversation on the way home. I have normal trailer shifting noise, but now it's a lot less creaking. Previously every turn, shift & bump it would creek and moan. I think the boat is more secure, more contact to the trailer via the better quality bunks (wood/carpet) and more solid retention of the bunks to the brackets. A lot less movement and shifting during transport. That's just an experienced guess at this point. BTW, the screws they use for those brackets are GARBAGE. I needed to upgrade as we exclusive trailer and launch and I need the trailer to be in top shape (tires, bunks, bearings, winches, jacks, etc.) It's just as important to me as the boat, unlike the guys that use the trailer 2x a year, to put the boat in and to take it out!

I should have snapped a few pics but, mine, like everyone else's pics on here looked the same, the wood was toast and only being held on the bracket by the carpet. Seems to have happened rather quickly too, my wife checks the bunks almost every launch and mentioned they were failing, I guess she didn't emphasize how bad!

 

[Rodder77]

What do you think was the thing that contributed to the reduction in sound, the screws, or.....?



You forgot the roofing tar and plastic wrap!

Hmmmmmm.......I like the way you think!!!!!

 

[mraz72]

trailer maintenance is so easy to overlook. You buy a boat and off you go, very little discussion about the trailer.

The suspension on mine is rusted, not sure about the brake pads, actually not sure about the entire surge brake system. Looking at the bunks, they appear to be in good condition.

To inspect are you looking at the exposed wood or do you guys suggest peeling back some carpet to take a peak? I've never done anything to the bunks, I can see where the carpet is just about worn through to the hull.

 

[Babin Farms]

To inspect are you looking at the exposed wood or do you guys suggest peeling back some carpet to take a peak? I've never done anything to the bunks, I can see where the carpet is just about worn through to the hull.

Check from underneath and check from above when the boat is in the water. Look where the supports meet the bunks for any rotting or damaged wood and any carpet that may need replaced and also check for missing lags. A missing lag sometimes means that the wood that is supposed to be holding it has rotted..

 

[zipper]

We just bought a Triton LT series aluminum pwc trailer for our dinghy. After putting the inflatabe rib on the bunks, it was obvious that the 2x4 bunks needed a riser to lift up the Zodiac RIB to keep the inflatable hypalon sections off the fenders and the step on the rear. Instead of ordering aluminum risers, I decided to rip a couple of PT 2x8's, I had kickin around, down to 6" and double them up and install using the same hardware. Upon removing the carpet from the factory bunks, to reuse it, I noticed they used spf not pt. That interior stud material would not last too long in a wet outdoor environment. I still need to staple the carpet on with s.s. staples but here are a few pictures. The bowstop is all the way back and the trailer is still a little long for my little dinghy.









While I was searching for risers, I came across their factory outlet store. They sell replacement bunks, the same as the one I just disassembled for $75 each. Crazy!

 

[drewkaree]

the trailer is still a little long for my little dinghy.

Chicks tell me that all the time

You mentioned "spf", were you referring to southern yellow pine (common untreated wood), or is that something else? I'm not familiar with that shorthand term.

I'm wondering how to check the topside of the bunks as well, and if I can afford PT 10-footers right now if they need replacement.

 

[zipper]

SPF=Spruce-pine-fir typical for interior framing. You can see the labeling around the word "stud" on that 2x4. I am sure you have been called that by chicks too.

 

[Babin Farms]

I'm wondering how to check the topside of the bunks as well, and if I can afford PT 10-ty footers right now if they need replacement.

I would push down on the carpet when the trailer is empty to feel for soft spots

 

[zipper]

I might try poking around with an ice pick or awl.

 

[captainhook]

Last season I was under the boat while it was on the trailer multiple times and always looked at the bottom of the bunks and they always looked good-n-solid. Well, this last weekend I launched the boat a checked them from the topside and was amazed at the shape they were in. View attachment 152923They felt like sponges and when I pushed on one it almost broke so I headed to the lumberyard and bought 3 new 2x6x10 pressure treated boards. Without overthinking it I just used my floor jack, a 4x4 and lifted each side of the boat and removed the old boards.View attachment 152922 Upon inspection after removing the starboard front board I found a deep gouge in the gel coat. (Assuming it was from old lag that scraped the hull). View attachment 152924 Made repairs to the gel coat and proceeded to finish getting the boards back on the trailer. The old carpet was in decent shape so I reused it and fasted it with 1-1/4” galvanized roofing nails to the new boards and installed with new lag bolts. In all the project took a couple hours.
After all of this I’m going to keep a closer eye on things even if they “seem” ok.

How did you do the gel coat repairs? Mine looks exactly like that from the trailer lag bolts.

Also, is that the only jack point you used? Did it lift the entire side of the boat up to access both boards on each side? I’d love to do this in my driveway instead of the boat ramp.

 

[drewkaree]

How did you do the gel coat repairs? Mine looks exactly like that from the trailer lag bolts.

I'm guessing Spectrum gelcoat paste. It's super easy to do, just make sure you have everything in place, when they say it sets up in 5-10 minutes, they're not kidding

 

[Babin Farms]

How did you do the gel coat repairs? Mine looks exactly like that from the trailer lag bolts.

Also, is that the only jack point you used? Did it lift the entire side of the boat up to access both boards on each side? I’d love to do this in my driveway instead of the boat ramp.

Use the gel coat past as stated by @drewkaree

That jackpoint I used will lift the boat enough to get both boards out on one side.

 

[Punkin Slinger]

Most all trailer manufacturers use untreated wood and have for as long as I can recall (1986).

Bass pro/Cabelas sell bunk carpet but you can also look for carpet remnants locally.

You're right! You would think that they would use treated lumber, even if it costs a little more! I rebunked my trailer for my 28' Regal about 20 years ago...used treated lumber and carpet remnants from one of the local stores. The remnants were free!

 

[biffdotorg]

Thanks Babin for the reminder.

It was last season that a lag bolt fell out of one of my bunks and wood in the bunk was stripped out. Obvious sign of rot. I had no way to get my boat out quickly, so I used an impact and flipped the bunk front to back and put new holes in as a temp fix. That worked fine until I could get the boat in the water for the season again and repair them correctly.

Wouldn't you know, I never took the time to do just that. And the trailer sits in my pole shed all summer with rotted bunks. Time to bust out the credit card and make the walk of shame to Menards to buy treated lumber and carpet.

 

[biffdotorg]

Thanks Babin for the reminder.

It was last season that a lag bolt fell out of one of my bunks and wood in the bunk was stripped out. Obvious sign of rot. I had no way to get my boat out quickly, so I used an impact and flipped the bunk front to back and put new holes in as a temp fix. That worked fine until I could get the boat in the water for the season again and repair them correctly.

Wouldn't you know, I never took the time to do just that. And the trailer sits in my pole shed all summer with rotted bunks. Time to bust out the credit card and make the walk of shame to Menards to buy treated lumber and carpet.

I actually ran out to the pole building over lunch and found the other side, two of the lag bolts had vibrated out. To my surprise, I was reminded why I never changed out the wood. It's solid, and I truly think the bolts vibrated out. I am going to pull the same trick on the other side and flip the bunk front to back.

I got up and jumped on the bunks, and noted that it was quite solid. Wood is not expensive in these dimensions, so it may pay to swap them anyway. I will start here with fresh bolts and holes. Still a great reminder to check your bunks at least annually if not more often.

 

[Quad]

We just bought a Triton LT series aluminum pwc trailer for our dinghy. After putting the inflatabe rib on the bunks, it was obvious that the 2x4 bunks needed a riser to lift up the Zodiac RIB to keep the inflatable hypalon sections off the fenders and the step on the rear. Instead of ordering aluminum risers, I decided to rip a couple of PT 2x8's, I had kickin around, down to 6" and double them up and install using the same hardware. Upon removing the carpet from the factory bunks, to reuse it, I noticed they used spf not pt. That interior stud material would not last too long in a wet outdoor environment. I still need to staple the carpet on with s.s. staples but here are a few pictures. The bowstop is all the way back and the trailer is still a little long for my little dinghy.

View attachment 159310

View attachment 159311

View attachment 159312

View attachment 159313

While I was searching for risers, I came across their factory outlet store. They sell replacement bunks, the same as the one I just disassembled for $75 each. Crazy!

View attachment 159354

Thanks for posting this! I've been looking at PWC trailers for my dinghy and wondered about the fender/tube interactions and if I could put in risers. Gives me some confidence in going that route.

 

[zipper]

Thanks for posting this! I've been looking at PWC trailers for my dinghy and wondered about the fender/tube interactions and if I could put in risers. Gives me some confidence in going that route.

You are welcome. The new bunks work well. They keep the inflatable parts off the fenders and the step on the rear corners of the trailer. Perfect height.

 

[Babin Farms]

Bumping this to the top as a reminder to forum members to check their bunk boards when getting ready for the season.

 

[Tacolpastor]

Used the jack method to replace my two rear bunks today. One was fine but the other was rotted in half. Not sure how it was even holding the boat. Check your bunks!