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Yes, crank until dry, once it's semi-dry, spray some spray lubricant in there if you have any. (WD-40, a few drops of any oil) and put the plugs back on and try to get the boat started. it may not start right away, you need to keep cranking, but only in bursts. crank for 10 seconds at the most, and rest for 30 seconds or more so as to not overload the starter. It may take a while to start. Once it starts, check the oil condition. Likely the oil will be milky and you will want to change it. That's step 2. Immediate focus is getting it started and running so it can dry off.
Yes, crank until dry, once it's semi-dry, spray some spray lubricant in there if you have any. (WD-40, a few drops of any oil) and put the plugs back on and try to get the boat started. it may not start right away, you need to keep cranking, but only in burts. crank for 10 seconds at the most, and rest for 30 seconds or more so as to not overload the starter. It may take a while to start. Once it starts, check the oil condition. Likely the oil will be milky and you will want to change it. That's step 2. Immediate focus is getting it started and running so it can dry off.
Not long..20 second tops. Move to get the other engine started, then we'll check the oil. Ideally once both engines start you want to put the boat in the water and use it a bit so it all warms up and the humidity boils off.
Now that you have it started you need to put a water source on it. The motors needs to warm up so it boils all of the moisture out. You will be changing oil multiple times also.
Now that you have it started you need to put a water source on it. The motors needs to warm up so it boils all of the moisture out. You will be changing oil multiple times also.
Now that you have it started you need to put a water source on it. The motors needs to warm up so it boils all of the moisture out. You will be changing oil multiple times also.
Don't worry, about water for now. once both start for 20 seconds, if the oil looks good, take it to the lake/sea/river right away and use it for 30+ minutes. so it all warms up. I've heard it best described as drive it like you stole it.
You can't run it on the hose without the little special adapter.
On your way to the ramp purchase if you don't have on hand Silicone Spray , even better CRC 656 Marine Formula, but even WD-40 for now if nothing else available, and spray the engine bay as if the spray was free... coat everything metal.
i have to finish fixing the clean out plugs before I put in the water. Would it hurt to hook the hose up and just run the engine through the fresh water for now?
If you can hook up the water fully without the Yamaha adapter, do it. (I'm not sure how to do that...)
Did the clean out plugs break? or just released? If you seat the plugs well and triple check by pulling on them hard at home they should hold one more trip. Also, even with no plugs you can idle the boat in the water. Getting the engine well into operating temperature quickly is important for engine longevity after this.
If you try the hose thing and it does not work, take the boat to the ramp and run it at idle with no plugs while moored. a good 30-40 minutes should get you safe.
If you can hook up the water fully without the Yamaha adapter, do it. (I'm not sure how to do that...)
Did the clean out plugs break? or just released? If you seat the plugs well and triple check by pulling on them hard at home they should hold one more trip. Also, even with no plugs you can idle the boat in the water. Getting the engine well into operating temperature quickly is important for engine longevity after this.
If you try the hose thing and it does not work, take the boat to the ramp and run it at idle with no plugs while moored. a good 30-40 minutes should get you safe.
If you can hook up the water fully without the Yamaha adapter, do it. (I'm not sure how to do that...)
Did the clean out plugs break? or just released? If you seat the plugs well and triple check by pulling on them hard at home they should hold one more trip. Also, even with no plugs you can idle the boat in the water. Getting the engine well into operating temperature quickly is important for engine longevity after
If you can hook up the water fully without the Yamaha adapter, do it. (I'm not sure how to do that...)
Did the clean out plugs break? or just released? If you seat the plugs well and triple check by pulling on them hard at home they should hold one more trip. Also, even with no plugs you can idle the boat in the water. Getting the engine well into operating temperature quickly is important for engine longevity after this.
If you try the hose thing and it does not work, take the boat to the ramp and run it at idle with no plugs while moored. a good 30-40 minutes should get you safe.
they released. a little part of the latch on the plug chipped off but still plenty to latch onto, will order a new one anyway.
I took the filters off last night to dry them out a bit, should I put them back on once I get both engines started?
Don’t stress too much about this. My boat, two four wheelers, two motorcycles, lawnmower, and so on spend 4 days underwater in the hurricane. I spend $200 total fixing all of these plus lots of oil. The boat was the easiest to come back alive.
If you can just get the plugs to hold and get the boat in the water to run at idle at the dock is better than nothing,
a jetski shop should have a hose adapter,
get the plugs out of the other engine and try to get that one to fire first,
also, once you get the other engine running we need to understand what your plug blowout did to flood your boat,
did it knock the rubber cleanout hose off the hatch? or disengage the hose at the bottom?
I had one blow out when I first got my old boat. It sounded like an explosion and water flew into the air like someone was fishing with dynamite but none of it got in the engine bay. That part is still unclear to me.