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DIY Steering Cable Luber

Just picked up 2020 210 FSH and unfortunately has the stiff steering issues noted by others in this thread. Has anyone tried pushing gear lube from the steering assembly in the helm or filling the steering assembly and try to gravity feed the lube? Without disassembling the assembly I can't tell for sure but I assume the gear lube could work down the cables from this end. Any help would be great!

Hi Gorilla, I tried pumping oil through cables using air compressor. When that didn't work, I bought two new cables on Amazon and installed myself. Feel free to send me a DM if you have any questions.
 
It's worth a try to extend the life if you are in a pinch, but the difference is night and day, the new cables are an awesome investment.

Look for the cable from the cable manufacturer per this thread to get them for a better price.
 
It's worth a try to extend the life if you are in a pinch, but the difference is night and day, the new cables are an awesome investment.

Look for the cable from the cable manufacturer per this thread to get them for a better price.

Totally agree with this and I'll go as far to say that it's probably temporary. Go ahead and replace cables. Simple job.
 
I try to do an annual oil lube with compressed air. Seems like it doesn't hardly go in, but so far my steering is smooth and easy. My boat is a 2018, some salt water, but not a lot.
 
View attachment 38953 View attachment 38954 View attachment 38955 View attachment 38956

I finally got around to lubing my steering cables. This is a setup I have used on many rusted e-brake cables with excellent results. Same principle as a cable luber for a motorcycle. The lubes is made from:

-3' of 1/2" ID heater hose
-1ea 1/2" threaded valve stem (like a tire). The idea is to be able to thread into the hose.
- 3ea 5/8" hose clamps and
- 1ea 1/2" hose clamp.
- some synthetic motor or gear oil.

The idea is to attach the hose over the steering cable with the clamps, fill the hose with synthetic oil, thread in the valve stem, secure it with a clamp and then pressurize with a bicycle pump. The pressure forces the oil through the cable casing to lube the cable. I put a large rag at the cable exit under the helm to catch any oil that comes out the other end. I had trouble with the oil getting forces out the rubber flex fitting so had to put the small hose clamp on it. I left it on to keep water out of the cable. Cam.
That's super cool
 
I replaced my steering cable last year in my 210 fsh, I noticed it just starting to get slightly tight in one spot so i figured i would try this. I figured with a brand new cable oil should flow right through. I get 30 lbs of pressure in there but the oil never moves am I doing something wrong?
 
I replaced my steering cable last year in my 210 fsh, I noticed it just starting to get slightly tight in one spot so i figured i would try this. I figured with a brand new cable oil should flow right through. I get 30 lbs of pressure in there but the oil never moves am I doing something wrong?
I had to do 90psi on my 210 cables to get the oil to flow. I think the newer cables are sealed better then the older ones. My theory is sittiing with lack of movement is what kills them. I move my steering at least once a month and have been good after I had an issue of it stiffening up 2 years ago that oiling solved.
 
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I can second what Lazergeek mentioned. Usually takes 75-90 psi and a lot of turning the wheel back and forth to get the Corrosion X i use to seep through. On average it takes at least 15-30 minutes for mine to start dripping from the helm. I place a trash bag around the steering assembly to catch all the fluid. Be sure to run your hose all the way up to the transom portion of where the steering cable pops through. Or you may never have it come out the other end.
 
I can second what Lazergeek mentioned. Usually takes 75-90 psi and a lot of turning the wheel back and forth to get the Corrosion X i use to seep through. On average it takes at least 15-30 minutes for mine to start dripping from the helm. I place a trash bag around the steering assembly to catch all the fluid. Be sure to run your hose all the way up to the transom portion of where the steering cable pops through. Or you may never have it come out the other end.
I finally got it to drip at the helm after it sat forever at 30lbs. I did the second one at about 80 and got it to drip faster. It was not bad to begin with just figured it would not hurt to do it before it needed it. I’ll do it again at the end of the season with corrosion X.
 
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