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Fabricating an engine stop switch defeat

schefdog

Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
2
Points
22
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2023
Boat Model
195S
Boat Length
19
Hi all, first question/post; I have a 2024 195S, and am interested in fabricating something to temporarily defeat the engine stop switch in the rear hatch of the boat. I've noticed it's a PITA to use a flush fitting with a built-in valve, and/or a Salt-Away mixer attached to the hose, because you can't actually close the hatch since there is not enough clearance with them connected.

Of course I know that this is certainly not recommended by the manufacturer, and I don't want to permanently jump the switch; I just want something I can use to temporarily "engage" it while I'm flushing the engine. My thought was, some kind of knob that I can screw on the exposed threads of the switch; my question is, does anyone know what size/type of threads these are? The parts book says the switch is a "Yamaha F1C-6834B-00-00 ENGINE STOP SWITCH", but I can't find the specs for it anywhere. My plan was to model it up in Fusion360 and 3D print it in a high-viz color, but I'm having a hard time finding what thread size to use.

This is kind of a fringe question so if anyone has any insight I'd appreciate it. Also interested if anyone had any other ideas for how to do this. Thanks!
 
I don't think that is out of the question, as many other owners would like to do the same, for the reason you are mentioning.

Since it is a plunger style switch, the obvious is to just put something heavy on it. The next would be to grab a thread guide and measure the thread pitch and diameter to buy a threaded cap from McMaster and Carr. Or thirdly, pull the nut off to match the threads with a wide nut from the hardware store and fill the hole of the nut. Screw it on like a cap to hold the plunger down (temporarily)

Good luck

1704294548285.png
 
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Not familiar with the flush port water connection, but , wouldn't it be easier to replumb the flush port to somewhere that doesn't impede the hatch closure?
 
I don't think that is out of the question, as many other owners would like to do the say, for the reason you are mentioning.

Since it is a plunger style switch, the obvious is to just put something heavy on it. The next would be to grab a thread guide and measure the thread pitch and diameter to buy a threaded cap from McMaster and Carr. Or thirdly, pull the nut off to match the threads with a wide nut from the hardware store and fill the hole of the nut. Screw it on like a cap to hold the plunger down (temporarily)

Good luck

View attachment 213357
For sure; I actually used to have thread guides but can't find them at the moment. I was able to measure the outside diameter of the threads and was trying to match it up that way (not very scientific, I know....)... but since I can't store my boat at my house, it's kind of a pain to go there and physically measure. Looking like that's what I'm going to have to do however.
I have actually tried to just put something heavy on it, but the switch is located on a ledge, so there isn't much surface area to balance something large (and heavy) enough to hold it down. It's almost like they made this a PITA on purpose :) Thanks for the feedback!
 
Not familiar with the flush port water connection, but , wouldn't it be easier to replumb the flush port to somewhere that doesn't impede the hatch closure?
I'm embarrassed to say that I didn't even think of this; it's definitely not a bad idea, just trying to not have to drill more holes if I can avoid it.
 
Its not unlike any electrical switch just cut one of the wires and splice an on/off toggle switch into cut wire, you can use wire to extend and place you switch anywhere. Now with that said I like the idea of something heavy holding down plunger or may be find a plastic cap that will screw down on the threads. MAYBE take a second plastic nut and make your own cap to screw down to depress the plunger?

Hope this helps a little
 
This is how I flush my 210FSH. I bought all the parts from Ace Hardware with the exception of the 2 parts that connect to the flush port. The hatch closes.
I store it under the hatch.
 

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I hooked my salt away mixer to the main hose, then attached a 6’ “jumper hose” to the fitting. I could attach the fitting to flush, close the hatch and set the mixer in the swim platform cup holder.
 
Hi all, first question/post; I have a 2024 195S, and am interested in fabricating something to temporarily defeat the engine stop switch in the rear hatch of the boat. I've noticed it's a PITA to use a flush fitting with a built-in valve, and/or a Salt-Away mixer attached to the hose, because you can't actually close the hatch since there is not enough clearance with them connected.

Of course I know that this is certainly not recommended by the manufacturer, and I don't want to permanently jump the switch; I just want something I can use to temporarily "engage" it while I'm flushing the engine. My thought was, some kind of knob that I can screw on the exposed threads of the switch; my question is, does anyone know what size/type of threads these are? The parts book says the switch is a "Yamaha F1C-6834B-00-00 ENGINE STOP SWITCH", but I can't find the specs for it anywhere. My plan was to model it up in Fusion360 and 3D print it in a high-viz color, but I'm having a hard time finding what thread size to use.

This is kind of a fringe question so if anyone has any insight I'd appreciate it. Also interested if anyone had any other ideas for how to do this. Thanks!

Can you post a pic of your clean out tray hatch? It doesn’t seem logical to me that Yamaha would have made this so you cannot flush with the hatch down, doing so would be………bad. I think any bypassing of this SAFETY switch is a very bad idea..
 
I’m thinking Home Depot or McMaster Carr sells a threaded cap/nut that may be installed on the sensor when the hatch is up.
 
Can you post a pic of your clean out tray hatch? It doesn’t seem logical to me that Yamaha would have made this so you cannot flush with the hatch down, doing so would be………bad. I think any bypassing of this SAFETY switch is a very bad idea..
I think I see his problem.......theres no room to close the hatch when a salt-a-way mixer is hooked to the flush port. He just needs to extend the hose out of the hatch area like @TeenGee did in the above post/pic. Easy fix
 
I think I see his problem.......theres no room to close the hatch when a salt-a-way mixer is hooked to the flush port. He just needs to extend the hose out of the hatch area like @TeenGee did in the above post/pic. Easy fix


The FSH models have two big drain channels on each side of the clean out area.. I’ve seen other models and that area is like a big bath tub. I thought it was weird that there is a drain in that area of the FSH models, I blocked mine off, whereas I can see the need for it on the models where it is like a bath tub. That is why I was asking for a picture.
 
How about gorilla tape over the sensor to keep the button down while the hatch is up.
 
It is probably a metric thread.
Cheap and dirty fix would be get 3 stainless nuts the correct size and a bolt.
Run bolt into three nuts, and then fasten the nuts together to make one long nut. Maybe, duct tape the nuts together. (Or maybe weld or jb weld)
Once dry and assembled, back the bolt out, and set it to screw on and also push down switch switch.
It would be safe because it too tall to close the lid. And you would only use while flushing or testing.
Also could find a long thread coupler.
Also maybe able to find plastic female thread online one you know the size amd pitch
(or draw up and 3d print one)
 
I like TeenGee solution the salt away bottles fit on the outside of the hatch and getting those adapters are readily available.
 
I thought the FSH models are the only ones with the dual flushing channels. But then realized, yamaha put in a channel for each engine. The 190/195 rec boats are a bathtub. (picture stolen)

1704378417091.png

What I could not see in the photo above was shown in the 2022 195s Owners manual online. The 190/195 series should have one flushing channel ont he far left.

1704378865476.png

Now if your 2023 does not have that channel, then you still have an issue. If I needed something quick, I would be cutting a piece of wood the size of that corner shelf, and nail/screw it to the bottom of a larger piece of wood to set on top of the plunger switch. That would sit flat on the deck and I could lay an anchor on it or something heavy. That would be the easy button if you give up on a screw cap.
It shows a drain/hose channel on the far left. Which we cannot see in the photo above.
 
I thought the FSH models are the only ones with the dual flushing channels. But then realized, yamaha put in a channel for each engine. The 190/195 rec boats are a bathtub. (picture stolen)

View attachment 213378

What I could not see in the photo above was shown in the 2022 195s Owners manual online. The 190/195 series should have one flushing channel ont he far left.

View attachment 213379

Now if your 2023 does not have that channel, then you still have an issue. If I needed something quick, I would be cutting a piece of wood the size of that corner shelf, and nail/screw it to the bottom of a larger piece of wood to set on top of the plunger switch. That would sit flat on the deck and I could lay an anchor on it or something heavy. That would be the easy button if you give up on a screw cap.
It shows a drain/hose channel on the far left. Which we cannot see in the photo above.

To the OP..

See that notch on the left ?



538D8298-E44F-45A9-ADD6-08614BE21BFB.jpeg

That’s where the flush adapter is supposed to poke out. If not long enough buy a shorty garden hose sold at the DIY store to extend it. I find it hard to believe that Yamaha would have designed and built a flushing set up wherein one had to by pass the safety lock out out- what I like to call the anti stupid mistake system. I have read or heard of too many incidents of people bypassing lockouts that led to their dismemberment or death. The system on the Yamaha boats locks out the ignition and starter systems so the engine cannot be turned over or start while you’ve got your hand in the meat grinder.
 
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Our boats are direct drive. There is no neutral. If the engine is on, the driveshaft and prop are spinning.
 
Just saw the stern on a 2022 for sale. Yup, this is not a poor design, they have the flushing channel on both sides as stated in the manual. They must have been cut off in the photo I posted above.

1704382954688.png
 
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