Gasket Maker when Pulling Jet Pump?

[Jeff L24]

I've read several posts about pulling the jet pump to remove a piece of wood that is wedged in my impeller blade. It sounds like this may be quicker than messing with it using a long screwdriver through the intake grate.

My question is for those people who have pulled their jet pump to clear an obstruction. Do you use the liquid gasket maker (Loctite 518/Permatex 51813) each time you pull it? If this is something I may need to do repeatedly in one season (hopefully not), is the gasket maker needed each time, or perhaps just at the end of the season, or maybe some of you don't even use it at all? Thanks.

 

[Dave burke]

I only had to pul the pump a couple of times, about 3-4 years ago. From what I recall, the gasket was fine and I just reused it. I did put locktite on the bolts though.

 

[Dixemon]

Anytime you have an electrolyte in between two pieces of metal you will have the perfect scenario for galvanic corrosion. My suggestion would be to seal the matting surface, either with loctite 518 or a waterproof rtv.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The nice thing about the loctite product is that it stays pliable, at least in my experience.

Here’s is some other advise based on my own pump pulling experiences. Get a tap and die for the main bolts, and tap for the small bolt(s) to clean off the bolts and the bolt holes as they will have sealant on them, you will also need compressed air and safety glasses. Get the white loctite thread sealant and put on the bolts when you go to reassemble, put it on the threads and then hold the bolt threads between your thumb and forefinger and rotate it to push the sealant into the threads and to remove the excess. Use a torque wrench on the bolts, they only need 30 Ft Lbs of torque for the big bolts and just snug on the single small on.

If this is the first time the pumps have been pulled, you may need one of those small nail removing pry bars to break the factory sealant, it is not the stuff they specify in the manual. While you are at it, you might as well get some O rings for the cones and a few tubes of epnoc grease and pull the cones, repack with grease, put on new O rings and you’ll be set for another year.

You will also need the molybendumdisulphide grease for the shaft splines and a little water proof grease where the manual says to put it on the shat to aid in re inserting.

This may take a bit the first time, but after the first time its a pretty easy affair to pull the pumps and reinstall them.

 

[jmargo]

As posted this is what is called for. LOCTITE 518 - Gasket Sealant - Henkel Adhesives (henkel-adhesives.com)
Avoid RTV/silicone if you don't want a headache next time you try to separate it or the risk of sending the excess squish through the water system. I stopped using anything after the second time pulling the pump.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The loctite gasket maker just needs to be a thin skin on the mating surfaces, leave room around the bolt holes and the water inlet hole to avoid squishing it into those voids.

 

[HawaiiBreeze]

This is in with this rebuild and silicone is a headache the next time around. As stated above by FSH210Sport get that die for your threads and clean them off. If you are 100% salt this becomes a necessity every time your remove and reinstall bolts. Next to my magic hammer the dies are the most used tool I have for dealing with stubborn engines.