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How I Replaced Yamaha's AIRMAR Transducer for half the cost (WITH PICTURES)

For those of you who have replaced the transducer, how did you physically get to the unit to replace it?

Did you have to remove the exhaust tank or anything else, or did you just reach in to remove the current one and replace it?

I can barely reach it (short arms I guess) and there is some safety wire on the unit as well, although I should be able to cut it.

I tried to remove the cover where the clean-out ports are and was not able to. I did loosen the hose clamps from under the cover, but they were in there super tight.

Would appreciate any tips because dealer won't do it. :-(
 
You will definitely need to remove the clean out tray. From what was detailed here, the water box is covering it so it needs to be moved over because the transducer is under it
 
You will definitely need to remove the clean out tray. From what was detailed here, the water box is covering it so it needs to be moved over because the transducer is under it

I have a 2019 242 SE. I tried to remove the clean out cover, but the clean out port hoses are extremely tight. I loosened the hose clamps all the way, but could not pull off the clean out tray, the hoses would not budge. I could be missing something very simple. You removed the clean out port hoses from the cover, right?
 
I have a 2019 242 SE. I tried to remove the clean out cover, but the clean out port hoses are extremely tight. I loosened the hose clamps all the way, but could not pull off the clean out tray, the hoses would not budge. I could be missing something very simple. You removed the clean out port hoses from the cover, right?
Yes they do get stuck on there, sometimes its a fight getting them free. When its un screwed and the clamps are loose try grabbing the tray an give it a twist side to side to break free
 
Yes they do get stuck on there, sometimes its a fight getting them free. When its un screwed and the clamps are loose try grabbing the tray an give it a twist side to side to break free

It won't twist because of the two clean-out port hoses. I think this is my issue, the hoses are stuck to the tray.

When replacing the cover afterwards, did you have any issues fitting the cover back in the clean-out port hoses?
 
It won't twist because of the two clean-out port hoses. I think this is my issue, the hoses are stuck to the tray.

When replacing the cover afterwards, did you have any issues fitting the cover back in the clean-out port hoses?
Never had a problem putting back together, a light coat of marine grease works wonders and maked future disassembly much easier.

Try taking a thin screwdriver or narrow putty knife coated with lubricant from inside the tube working upward to loosen up the tube
 
Never had a problem putting back together, a light coat of marine grease works wonders and maked future disassembly much easier.

Try taking a thin screwdriver or narrow putty knife coated with lubricant from inside the tube working upward to loosen up the tube

Great idea about working it loose from the inside. Will give that a shot tomorrow. Thanks!

BTW, while trying to figure this out, I came across another interesting thread about applying sealant to the tray cover when replacing it. Did you do that?

Thank you again very much for the fast replies and ideas.
 
Great idea about working it loose from the inside. Will give that a shot tomorrow. Thanks!

BTW, while trying to figure this out, I came across another interesting thread about applying sealant to the tray cover when replacing it. Did you do that?

Thank you again very much for the fast replies and ideas.
I used weatherstrip gasket foam like this to the underside of the tray. It sticks to the plastic tray very good and makes it water tight. Its easy to manipulate it to make turns
Weatherstrip

The stuff i used was thinner, probably only 3/8 thickness before squished
 
I used weatherstrip gasket foam like this to the underside of the tray. It sticks to the plastic tray very good and makes it water tight. Its easy to manipulate it to make turns
Weatherstrip

The stuff i used was thinner, probably only 3/8 thickness before squished

Interested, but link not working
Cool idea
 
Kinda like this
71boTgPbQ7L._AC_SL1200_.jpg
 
That sais 1/8 thickness, seems too thin.
 
I’m not so sure about the tilt angle of the transducer as well. When I removed the factory transducer the “arrow” that was suppose to pointed toward the keel was actually pointed towards the bow.
 
mine was pointed towards the bow, and that was the way the instructions said to do it with the one that I got
 
Finally got around to this project.

I did the exact pigtail, triple checked the connections but still no reading from the depth transducer on either temp or depth with the same transducer comm error.

Is there a fuse somewhere that could be blown? This is driving me nuts!!!
 
Finally got around to this project.

I did the exact pigtail, triple checked the connections but still no reading from the depth transducer on either temp or depth with the same transducer comm error.

Is there a fuse somewhere that could be blown? This is driving me nuts!!!
What is the exact part number?
Should be 010-11105-00
 
Do you still have a depth comm error?
Have you checked for voltage on the +?
Before that, I think it goes thru the solid state switching device, and then the canbus routes thru the port tachometer…if memory serves. Haven’t looked at the schematics in a year. Don’t believe it’s individually fused though. And if you’re not seeing a depth comm error, it’s probably powered on anyway.
 
I’m SO glad Cyclops pioneered this issue. Nearly pulled the trigger on the $800 part that may show up in the next 5 years. Thank you VERY much.
 
Just wanted everyone to know that my boat is back in the water and have confirmed the transducer works properly. I did not replace the existing thru-hull fitting as it was just fine. Be sure to follow the transducer install instructions from AIRMAR.
 
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