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How I Replaced Yamaha's AIRMAR Transducer for half the cost (WITH PICTURES)

Update. I couldn’t believe my eyes, but my most recent update from Partzilla.com for my OEM transducer (F2D-U8K1W01-00) just shipped!! Been waiting on it since December. I expected the update to to be yet another pushback on the expected date….but it’s shipped with a tracking number. So, hope may be on the horizon for anyone who is still waiting. Cheers
 
Dumb question, but my 2015 SX210 is giving an N2K alarm and I have at least lost depth and speedometer that I know of. Do you think this patch would solve my issues?
 
I just replaced the transducer in my 2019 AR210 with the DST810 and can confirm it works on my boat. The speed and depth are a little off, but they are adjustable via Bluetooth and the cell phone app.

This is awesome! I have the 2021 model , but I guess the transducer is the same. I have a couple of questions please:

- Did you have to do the pigtail adapter to the yamaha connector (as in the first post)?
- Where's the original transducer connector located? Do you have to run the cable all the way to the helm, or is there a connector on the engine bay?
- How do you calibrate with the Bluetooth app? For speed you can compare with a GPS, but for depth I can't think of a way. I'll have to read the user manual I guess :)
- Did you have to remove the complete tray in the back, or were you able to do it just through the removable small cover

Sorry for so many questions :)

Thanks!
Gonza
 
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No worries!

- I did do the pigtail adapter. I spliced in the old Yamaha connector onto a new one from amazon. I did read somewhere on here that there was a pre-made version available, but I saw that after the fact.
- Connector was on the starboard side engine bay, up on the wall with a bunch of others. Only had to fish through the rear wall of the engine bay into the bilge. The new transducer came with plenty of wire on it.
- I didn't calibrate it yet, too lazy :). But the depth isn't far off enough to worry about for me. You'd have to know the depth and calibrate it that way. Maybe in a pretty shallow area with a tape measure?
- I did remove the tray, it wasn't too bad. Also gave me the chance to reseal it up since the factory sealing job is pretty lousy. I had to use silicon spray lube and a heat gun to get the drain tube off of the tray but the cleanout ports weren't bad.
 
But since it’s a DT without the speed wheel and not a DST how that does have it, how is your boat reading the speed?
 
No worries!

- I did do the pigtail adapter. I spliced in the old Yamaha connector onto a new one from amazon. I did read somewhere on here that there was a pre-made version available, but I saw that after the fact.
- Connector was on the starboard side engine bay, up on the wall with a bunch of others. Only had to fish through the rear wall of the engine bay into the bilge. The new transducer came with plenty of wire on it.
- I didn't calibrate it yet, too lazy :). But the depth isn't far off enough to worry about for me. You'd have to know the depth and calibrate it that way. Maybe in a pretty shallow area with a tape measure?
- I did remove the tray, it wasn't too bad. Also gave me the chance to reseal it up since the factory sealing job is pretty lousy. I had to use silicon spray lube and a heat gun to get the drain tube off of the tray but the cleanout ports weren't bad.

Thank you very much for all your replies. I'm not very good at doing manual work :-) but with your tips I will give it a shot.
 
No worries!

- I did do the pigtail adapter. I spliced in the old Yamaha connector onto a new one from amazon. I did read somewhere on here that there was a pre-made version available, but I saw that after the fact.
- Connector was on the starboard side engine bay, up on the wall with a bunch of others. Only had to fish through the rear wall of the engine bay into the bilge. The new transducer came with plenty of wire on it.
- I didn't calibrate it yet, too lazy :). But the depth isn't far off enough to worry about for me. You'd have to know the depth and calibrate it that way. Maybe in a pretty shallow area with a tape measure?
- I did remove the tray, it wasn't too bad. Also gave me the chance to reseal it up since the factory sealing job is pretty lousy. I had to use silicon spray lube and a heat gun to get the drain tube off of the tray but the cleanout ports weren't bad.

Looking at the DST810 manual I see it has 2 parts, the exterior housing and the insert (the sensor itself). I assume you just left the original housing in place, and just screwed in the new insert? If so, that's much easier than I thought!

Check this out:
Airmar says that if the housing has a valve, you can use the yellow O-ring that comes with the transducer. But if the existing housing does not have a valve, then you must use a different black O-ring (that you can buy from them for $5) - This is also explained in the manual.

Just curious, did your housing have the valve?

Thanks!
 
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irmar says that if the housing has a valve, you can use the yellow O-ring that comes with the transducer. But if the existing housing does not have a valve, then you must use a different black O-ring (that you can buy from them for $5) - This is also explained in the manual.

Just curious, did your housing have the valve?

Thanks!
Mine did have the valve and yellow o ring. Just had to screw in the new one. I also put a little o ring lube on new one.
 
Yes, I used the existing housing, no issues, it seems to be identical. I can't say I looked for a valve. I just slapped the new transducer in with the supplied yellow o-ring and some silicon lube.
 
Mine did have the valve and yellow o ring. Just had to screw in the new one. I also put a little o ring lube on new one.
Yes, I used the existing housing, no issues, it seems to be identical. I can't say I looked for a valve. I just slapped the new transducer in with the supplied yellow o-ring and some silicon lube.

Excellent! Thank you both. All the "theory" is clear. Now comes the difficult part because I suck at doing manual work LOL :p:D
 
same issue here folks on a 2019 AR240. However when I started pulling it out I realized the transducer wire was pinched between the boat hull and the exhaust. It was literally pinched flat. Thinking of just fixing the wire but wanted to get others thoughts.

here is a pic after pulling it from being pinched between the exhaust and haul.
 

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Inless its severed or wire exposed where it touched another wire or the exhaust it shouldn't be a problem but not ideal
 
Is the GAR010-11105-00 the same in a 2019 ar210? My temperature is off by 30 degrees and it's annoying. Thanks
 
Hey all, resurrecting with a question. Just used this thread (thank you all) to replace my faulty temp/depth transducer with the Airmar 800 20 deg. My boat is currently in the garage on the trailer. Everything in and I'm getting perfect temp but the depth is just flashing all grey with "--". No error messages. If I unplug the connector to the transducer I get the error message and temp disappears. Did I mess something up or is this due to be being on the trailer?? 2019 242 Limited SE
 
Needs to be in the water to read depth. It will read air temp., but it can't read depth thru air
 
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Hey all, resurrecting with a question. Just used this thread (thank you all) to replace my faulty temp/depth transducer with the Airmar 800 20 deg. My boat is currently in the garage on the trailer. Everything in and I'm getting perfect temp but the depth is just flashing all grey with "--". No error messages. If I unplug the connector to the transducer I get the error message and temp disappears. Did I mess something up or is this due to be being on the trailer?? 2019 242 Limited SE

Yep. Try it on the water, it should work.
 
Does anyone know if it is possible to piggyback the airmar transducer to feed the connext screen and the simrad go7? I just purchased new dt800 airmar thru hull because original one failed I just want to see if I need to add another transducer for simrad.
 
Question…can these transducers overheat when running the boat out of the water??
 
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