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How I Replaced Yamaha's AIRMAR Transducer for half the cost (WITH PICTURES)

zipper

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Nivekot

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zipper

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No, but leaving it on while driving to the lake on a hot Summer day could be an issue. Pretty much every other manufacturer states not to run them out of water. A gugl search will show info on this. I mean they do not work correctly out of water anyway.
 
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FSH 210 Sport

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What @zipper said..

It’s the same with externally mounted transducers from MinnKota, Simrad, Lowrance etc….they will get hot when used out of water, nice thing with my MinnKota is that I can turn the transducer pinging off from the screen if I want to mess with the MFD for a while to run updates and such. I assume it’s the same with other aftermarket MFD’s. The 10-15 mins you are going to be out of water for engine warm ups isn’t going to hurt them once in a while.

If you are concerned just put a sprinkler head under the boat where the transducer is while the connext screen is on to keep it cool if you need to have it on for an extended period.
 

jpdaley1026

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I doubt it could overheat, I haven't heard of that, its just a sensor, and its not water cooled. if your talking about during flushing your engine, that should not be an issue. How long are you planning on running your boat out of the water?
 

zipper

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I doubt it could overheat, I haven't heard of that, its just a sensor, and its not water cooled. if your talking about during flushing your engine, that should not be an issue. How long are you planning on running your boat out of the water?
Maybe not the basic depth/temp sensors. The chirp sensors are water cooled. Skyler Marine - Proper CHIRP Transducer Care

Screenshot_20230327-141015_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
 
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EastonRob

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I have an 2021 FSH 255 Sport E. I bought it used with about 20 hours on it in December of 2021. After I took delivery, I noticed the fairing block for the transducer was broken in half (1st pic). I ran it all last season without any real issues, but I'd like to address it this season if possible, although I'm weighing the "it needs to be fixed" vs. "it's working now/what can of worms am I going to open?" equation. While depth/temp works, it would probably work better at speed, and the boat probably would not have a slight pull to starboard, with a complete fairing block to create smooth flow. Transducer sits just aft of the starboard engine (2nd pic). I do have the new fairing block. The transducer model is B148-20 which doesn't seem to have a lot of application outside this model.

A couple of questions for the group:

1. That's a tight fit, and to get that hull nut off of there I'm guessing I need one of those specialized Airmar transducer wrenches. Anyone happen to know what size or if they are all basically the same? I see a crows foot one that may be the most useful in that tight space.

2. I tried following the cable from the transducer back to the console. I'm assuming I'm going to have to cut / splice somewhere along that cable in order to get the new fairing block. Airmar recommends their "splash proof" junction box p/n 33-035. Anyone have experience with that?

3. Any other advice / lessons learned in general on how best to skin this cat?

Thanks for any help in advance.
DamagedTransducer1.jpg

TransducerInBoat.jpg
 

adrianp89

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Well your pull to right is probably from mis-aligned nozzles.
 

adrianp89

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Does anyone know if it is possible to piggyback the airmar transducer to feed the connext screen and the simrad go7? I just purchased new dt800 airmar thru hull because original one failed I just want to see if I need to add another transducer for simrad.
Curious on this as well.
 

Nightman06

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First ride of the season yesterday, after AIRMAR install and appears to be working. For anyone who may have the same question as I did over the winter; "dashes on depth gauge while on trailer", I can confirm that it WILL work once in the water.

My only issue now is that about 50% of the time at startup I'm getting 130'+ reading at the dock and flashing dashes during reverse. It fixes itself after moving forward for a few minutes. Could this be due to the angle of the transducer at install? I pointed mine towards the center of the boat.

Thanks!
 

ACRDSPORT14

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Is there part number for the airmar round to the Yamaha square. Or just splice it ?
 

The Canuck

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Just spoke with the dealer that is going to do the warranty replacement for our bad transducer, and supposedly the fix that is mentioned in this thread or one very similar has "been approved" for the warranty repair. Not sure if the dealership is pulling a fast one on me or just trying to get me off of their list of people that keep calling/bugging them. Either way, it sounds like they have a lot of transducers coming in in the next week or so, and then hopefully I can get in line shortly after the July 4th weekend.
 

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I have had my OEM transducer on order since Nov of 2021 with my dealer. I just called them last week, and still no idea of when it will be in. Apparently there are 4 other people waiting on transducers also. Thats just crazy, almost 2 yrs. The DST810 I put in is still working good. No problems so far. The OEM one was ordered under warranty, so whenever that comes in, I will have a spare.
 

CBallr

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I called Yamaha as well. I also called Airmar. Airmar. Airmar wouldn't even consider suggesting any alternate parts and said I must get the OEM part for replacement. No dates could be provided at this time.
 

The Canuck

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Just spoke with the dealer and the parts are not in yet. :( I am hoping the week after the 4th I could get the boat in as I will be off. Hopefully I can get an update later today when they follow up on the shipment and I can get this taken care of.

I am under the suspicion that this isn't 100% approved by Yamaha, or if it is, it's a weird way they got it approved. The dealer checked while I was on the phone, and said Yamaha was backordered with a date of October 2023. I am sure that will get pushed back farther and farther. My guess is that they are hoping that this replacement will take care of things, and they won't have to see me again. Or if it does fail, then I guess it will be easier for me to splice it in, as I would assume I am out of warranty by that point.
 

CBallr

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Looking closely at the pre-made cables, none of those connectors look correct. If anyone has tried a pre-made connector can you please post?
 

CBallr

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Also if anyone took good pictures of the actual connector pins on the OEM connector and the boat side, can you post them please?
 
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