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I think I finally quieted my Yamaha!

Interesting point. It made me think.

Then I overruled it: wind in your ears or no wind, loud is loud!
LOL.

Personally, I don't need a dB meter. The first Yamaha JB I ever rode - 2012 SX190 - was so f@cking loud I started laughing on the test ride, couldn't believe it. Bought it anyway - figured I will sound-deaden the beast make it quiet like a Bentley, easy peasy - right? (well, I was proven wrong...!!!!)

There is a big difference between a 2012 190 and a 2016 240. The latter is much, much better but still PLENTY of room for improvement.

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Lol that reminds me of the day we tested our new 2012 AR190. Wife and I looked at each other and thought whether or not to get it because it was so loud. Bought her anyways and kept it for 4 years. We are literally in the same boat lol going form the 190 to the 16 Ar240. It's so much quieter at idle...but yeah the noise is still there at speeds.
 
For s
Man, I'm really torn now. I like this insulation a lot. But it seems best suited/designed as a continuous barrier material - and I'm not sure I want to build an "enclosure" around the engines given @buckbuck comments.
I may end up taking an easier/softer way! - with just using a bunch of unbranded acoustic foam wedges and panels to fill in as many voids and spaces as I can reach and cover the bulkheads etc.

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For some reason this i what I envision. Engine bay foam pit playground. Lolimage.jpg
 
I have a high end full spectrum db meter. Without taking an initial measurement with the same meter you are totally wasting your time. Placement and angle of the microphone have a huge influence on the reading. It's gotta be with a couple inches to compare readings. You would need to mount it on something like a tripod. You would also have to measure the wind at the time. I spent a lot of time taking readings in my car before doing sound proofing. I gave up. The road, speed, traffic, etc were huge variables. Same road, exact same speed, etc and it still has large variations.

In cases where the data has a lot of variation, one successful method is taking many measurements and averaging. This also presents problems because now you need to duplicate conditions more than just twice. If someone wanted to try and do a statistical comparison excel has some easy to use statistical tools. Most science would expect more than just two measurements.

I think one possible measurement problem, other then duplicating location and conditions, is the harmonics of two engines. Another is the mic really shouldn’t be touching any vibrating surfaces, but holding in a persons hand isn’t very repeatable. ...

Thanks to everyone to trying to quantify the improvement though. Also documenting what you’ve tried. I haven’t seen anyone with a two stroke get into this, but I may try (I won’t be taking measurements though, no time for that).

Anyone had a two stroke that could say if they are louder than the four. We don’t even bother with the radio underway.

Matt
 
Right, but how much time are you going to spend on this? At my last job I would analyze data for medical diagnostic devices. Many times with 100-200 replicates per control level, per test condition. I use jmp software because it's far more powerful than excel. Anova and levenes tests were my goto analysis methods. I suspect running power analysis on sample size for a db meter would tell you that you need hundreds of measurements per condition to see less than a 10% improvement. The larger the expected difference, the lower the sample size requirements.
 
Pretty negative post with just a gut feel about the idea. No one knows what the variability is.. most people own excel and its use is well documented... it’s a start... why hate on an idea you don’t even know wouldn’t work.. I even said taking a bunch of measurements would be a pain and that I wouldn’t do it. how about you prove it won’t work instead of trumpeting your own... or better yet just keep it to yourself next time hater.
 
It's not a gut feel, I've taken dozens of measurements and gave up due to high variability. This was with a musician grade full spectrum db analyzer in a car. Same road and same speed. The boats probably even more variable due to wind.
 
I think we should try to get sponsored by NASA ,or or at least some of these people should get a job there . And we would know the right way to put a rockets on these boats at a low db . If it helped good job if it didn't help get a louder stereo . You can probably tell I owned a lot of Volkswagens that's how you fix things.
 
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I just got my Noxudol 3101 noise canceling paint but won’t be able to apply it to the engine and fuel compartment for a couple months. Based on the conversation I will be doing the lockers too. Has anyone tried noise cancelling headphones??????
 
I think we should try to get sponsored by NASA ,or or at least some of these people should get a job there . And we would know the right way to put a rockets on these boats at a low db . If it helped good job if it didn't help get a louder stereo . You can probably tell I owned a lot of Volkswagens that's how you fix things.
Nasa would just out source it to space x. Does nasa even have scientists anymore? At least musk knows how to make a quiet car!
 
Man, that looks interesting.
Here's a document on the stuff: http://www.kaiser-soze.com/documentos/Auson/Noxudol3100.pdf
I was thinking an aerosol can might be an interesting test, but hoo, boy, it would take a lot of spray cans! 1 can covers 1.25 sq. ft. (3 coats) for $27.50 and 1 gallon covers 8 sq. ft. (3 coats) for $125. (BTW, I was trying to see the difference between 3100 and 3010 but haven't found it yet.)
Actually, thinking about it now, even though three coats are recommended, I'd want to check after each coat and see how it's doing... It should be easier to apply than acoustic panels stuck on with an adhesive!

I had planned to use professional two part spray in truck bed liner and go nuts with it around the engine bay, bilge, and long spans of hull walls that are not see. I chickened out on that idea for fear of a giant mess and something that was not removeable.

Has anyone used the Noxudol 3100 in the warmer climates yet?.. I have my 5 gallon can ready but waiting for warmer weather for the application.
 
I think we should try to get sponsored by NASA ,or or at least some of these people should get a job there . And we would know the right way to put a rockets on these boats at a low db . If it helped good job if it didn't help get a louder stereo . You can probably tell I owned a lot of Volkswagens that's how you fix things.

Has any one tried this yet?

Silent Running SR1000 Spray Kit
 
Just curious if anyone has looked at all the penetrations (e.g. wiring, etc) and using Acoustic Putty Pads like Quiet Putty which you can get it at the "Big Box Stores) (stopping the airflow which carries the sound). Matt Risinger talks about this on YouTube - just not sure if anyone has tried it on the boats.
 
I used to use a similar visco elastic spray-on sound deadener called quietcar. I sprayed it in several vehicles and it sure worked. This was when Lexus vehicles were dead quiet and everything else wasn't. This certainly seems well worth the price to at least try.
 
I think I did it! I believe I have officially quieted my Yamaha to the point where it is a very comfortable and pleasant ride, even at cruise speed. I read a ton on this and other forums to start the process, but added my own spin on it as well. I actually started by wrapping the entire engine compartment with this stuff I got for $50 from Home Depot: 4 ft. x 8 ft. Acoustical Barrier-DB348X96BX - The Home Depot I liked it because I could wrap the entire engine compartment without any seams.

I stuck it to the side with this from Autozone: http://www.autozone.com/sealants-gl...aerosol-spray-super-trim-adhesive/708718_0_0/

Then I added this stuff on top of it: Package # 1 -------- 20 Sheets of RAAMmat BXT II (37.5 sq ft) and 3 yards of Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick Foam (41.625 sq ft)

That gave me enough peel and stick panels to do the entire front and sides of the engine compartment (not the back), as well as the engine hatch and gas tank cover. I added the factory foam back on the engine hatch, just for good measure. That helped a ton.

Still wasn't satisfied, though. I bought another roll of the Home Depot stuff. I pulled the carpet from the inside walls of the rear storage compartments, laid it out on top of the rubber as a template and cut the rubber to match. Used the same 3M adhesive to glue the rubber to the carpet, and then back to the inside of the storage compartments. It made a HUGE difference! I thought it had, but wasn't sure. We went out with a buddy of ours in his 2013 242 and everyone in my family commented about how much louder his boat was than ours. For the price and couple hours of work, I would encourage everyone to do it.

Still looking for someone else with a non-modified 230/232 to meet up with to verify. Anyone?
Thanks for this detailed post. Sounds like you've done a ton of work. Two questions for you -- first, were you at all worried about creating excess heat (i.e. too much insulation)? Also, did you pull off the existing insulation before adding this? (one dealer told me that this was dangerous to do as it could fall into the engine compartment and catch fire!)
 
Also, did you pull off the existing insulation before adding this? (one dealer told me that this was dangerous to do as it could fall into the engine compartment and catch fire!)

That guy sounds like the reason there's warnings on irons to not use on clothes while you're wearing them.
 
The original post recommended these items. They both appear to be discontinued.

4 ft. x 8 ft. Acoustical Barrier DB348X96BX - The Home Depot I liked it because I could wrap the entire engine compartment without any seams.

Then I added this stuff on top of it: NPP for Sale: Avoiding Scams and Unsafe Sources

Has anyone found any affordable, effective alternatives? Home Depot recommended this as an alternative to the DB3.

 
Take a look at McMaster-Carr.



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