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Infinity 6100M Mic Replacment Fix

Just ordered off Amazon - this is great! Bringing the boat home for the winter this weekend. I’ll install it and let you know. Thanks again!
 
This is outstanding Bob! I love my Infinity system & was really disappointed when it looked like I was going to have to replace it. I have been trying to figure how to get my mic working again, with no luck, until I read this thread! I just ordered your mic cord & watched your video. I will get everything set up, once the snow finally melts in Minnesota. Thanks again for your outstanding work!
 
Hey Bob!!! I would love to order the replacement cord (more than likely 3 based on wear n tear and kids). Saw they are out of stock, Any chance or getting a few made???
 
Hi Bob,

I'm in the same boat looking for a cord, please let me know if more are being made would like to order.

Thanks,
 
Ive had a few requests and so I'll be trying to get around to getting someade soon. I'll try and let everyone know.
 
Ive had a few requests and so I'll be trying to get around to getting someade soon. I'll try and let everyone know.
Sounds good thanks for getting back to me, please once ready send me a message and I will order it off the site. Thanks
 
Bob,

I hooked up the cord today, quality product! I seem to be only getting sound from the tower speakers through the tweeters. Left and right tweeters only. Any thoughts?
 
Good afternoon, after searching for two years this month has been a bonus: I found a new set of 6000M speakers to replace the defective one on my sea ray 230 fission, and now a possible way of bypassing the microphone! I would be interested in purchasing the bypass plug if you have one available? If not, would you share the schematic so that I can build it? I am also working to reverse engineer the cord on the microphone, I have some coiled cable on order that I hope will work. If so, I'll be happy to share the details
 
Hi Bob. Count me in on your next batch. I will buy a couple if that helps you justify the work. Thanks.
 
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Bob,

I hooked up the cord today, quality product! I seem to be only getting sound from the tower speakers through the tweeters. Left and right tweeters only. Any thoughts?

Sorry, just seeing this now. Well if you are getting sound out of the tweeters it means that the cable is working since the the main signal and isn't separated into high and lows. so I would check the connections on the inside of the speakers, or the main amp to see what kind of power it's putting out.
 
Bob,
I am interested in a replacement cable. Can you let me know when you have more available or provide the parts list so I can make one myself?
 
Hi bob, just found this thread. In the same boat as the others. My cord is crumbling by the day. Do you plan on selling more? Thanks for doing this!
 
Hey Bob, I need one cord real bad sent you a pm thanks
 
@Bob Saget Add me to the list of folks that are in need of a replacement cable ... Bought a used boat last week with this Infinity System in it and the cable is falling to pieces like everyone else, if you make another run of these I would like one, well really two of them, one for a backup as the system is now discontinued and there are really no replacement solutions except the one you came up with. Thanks in advance.
 
No problem itsdmg,
And yep, it should be pretty easy, and if its not then here is the link to the instructional video that I made.
Its really a matter of opening up the case, unplugging the old plug, putting in the new plug, make sure the cord is secured in the case, close the case, and put the screws back in. Then it's ready for the boat!
Let me know if you can supply another mic cable. Thanks Joe - Fjoecaruso@aol.com
 
I need a replacement cord also! Can you please let me know if you can make another? Arkytk@hotmail.com
Thanks!
 
Add me to the list of interested buyers of a new cord. Thanks!!!!
 
Bob, let me express my sincere gratitude for you taking the time to create these replacement mic cords. I was devastated when the subwoofer and mid-range speakers on my Infinity 6100M system stopped working, and never would have suspected that a simple mic cord was to blame. Called the stereo shop, and to the owner's credit, he candidly told me "oh no, probably we can't fix that" because that Infinity system was out of production with no spare parts available anywhere. The tower speakers still worked, but it just wasn't the same. So I stumbled across this blog in my research of trying to solve the problem, and even tried to order the parts myself but the mic cord only had six wires versus the eight needed (this at a time when ebay was sold out of your replacement cables). So I made one last attempt at looking at the old ebay link and lo and behold there was another one available! I immediately bought it and it arrived just a few days later. I followed your instructional video, and will add that the little gray "on/off" switch cover immediately fell of when I opened the clam shell and gave me a minor heart attack, but in the end I was able to swap out the old cable with your replacement and get it back installed in my beloved Sanger V215. Turned on the battery and the stereo, put in my Steely Dan CD (yes my head unit is that old), and only the tower speakers were working. Was a little bummed but at least had tried to fix it, then noticed that the sound was changing and becoming louder, then realized the amps were warming up and 10 seconds later the subwoofer and all the midrange speakers kicked in and she was alive and pumping again! Beyond stoked! Thank you thank you thank you for saving my system!!! TD - Arcadia, CA
 
@Bob Saget can you describe what circuitry I'd need if I'm adding it to the 9-pin connector on the main amp board? I cut the mic cable to remove the amp - before I found this thread (woops!). So now I can't connect anything to the GX16-8. But when I open the amp, I see the mic cable goes to a nice little 9-pin header.

I found the schematics also. Looks like the pins are:
AUTO (to main board, selects "always on" or "always off" or "on by remote signal")
LO (left channel from handheld unit back into the main board)
RO (right channel from handheld unit back into the main board)
MICO (microphone input to the main board)
LO3 (left channel from the main board to handheld unit)
RO4 (right channel from the main board to the handheld unit)
-15V
+15V
GND

So only 4 of these pins represent return signals from the handheld unit.
AUTO:
Looks like the 3 possibilities shown on the handheld unit schematic are: floating or grounded or 390k-to-GND. I'm guessing 390k-to-GND is what I want for the "on by remote" setting. True?

LO and RO:
These obviously need to be driven from LO3 and RO4, which are outputs of the last opamp buffers on the main board (before going to the handheld unit). And I see that LO and RO returning back from the handheld unit feed through a switch into a 10kohm resistor and series 4u7 cap before inputting into another opamp the main board. Can I just connect LO3-to-LO and RO4-to-RO? The handheld schematic shows the LO3 and RO4 go into a resistor divider with potentiometer. That's gotta be the music volume control. I know I'll lose the music volume control but I'm fine with that. I'm mostly concerned if shorting LO3-to-LO and RO4-to-RO will create some stability or headroom issue in the circuit. I'm more of a digital guy than analog. Would love to know what you did here.

MICO:
Maybe I don't have to do anything with this? Can I just let if float Hi-Z? Or maybe some resistor to GND?

Any help would be appreciated!
 
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