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Installing Polk DB651s finally

drewkaree

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So I'm finally getting around to attempting to swap out the stock speakers with the Polk's, but one of the spade terminals on them is skinny as heck, and the female connector keeps falling off the second I move the speaker back into the hole.

Is it as simple as just mashing the female connector flat on the male end once I have it connected, or what?

Also, there's some additional wiring on the Polk's that doesn't allow the spade terminals to fully seat, but I've got at least half of the female end pushed onto the male end. Is this okay? Seems like it should be seated more fully.

I'll try to snap a pic shortly to show just how skinny the male terminal is, and the wiring that seems to be in the way, and add it here for some visual aid of what I'm referring to.
 

drewkaree

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IMG_20200802_132757190_HDR~2.jpg

IMG_20200802_132740613_HDR~2.jpg


The red female spade terminal is the smallest I have, and the smallest I can find, and it's perfect for the "big" male terminal. The smaller terminal is half the size, MAYBE an eighth of an inch wide, and that red terminal is super loose and easily falls off. The female terminals for the stock speakers are even larger, so even more of a problem.
 

GTBRMC

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I went through the same learning curve when I swapped out the garbage OEM speakers for those same Polks. There are different size crimp terminals. KnuKonceptz has a one-stop shop page that lays out the different sizes. I bought from them, I am sure there are other options out there. I had exactly zero troubles with anything i ever bought from them and their pricing was competitive, FWIW.


Edit: PS - you are likely better off using crimp + solder method. When I installed them, I was out of daylight and very tired. I decided to go crimp-only w full expectation that one or more would eventually wiggle off and I would have to return, recrimp, then solder. As it turns out, every crimp held and I never had to revisit.
 

212s

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Found the same size issue when I re-wired my stock Polk speakers for the JL amp to pump up the sound. I couldn't find smaller spade connectors locally so I had to improvise a bit and just used needle nose pliers to gently crimp down the spade connectors to make sure they were very snug without crushing the connector (didn't have the extra wire through the spade lug on my 652's but it shouldn't be an issue if it's tight). After 20 hours of use, no issues so far. If they come loose I'll go back and solder all of the spade connections. Quite happy with the stock speakers driven with a good amp.
 

drewkaree

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These posts help tremendously. I've got all the common sizes in a kit, and I've done some work on several cars over the years, but never stumbled across these super skinny terminals before.

I didn't want to solder them due to the bouncing around of the boat, and eventually having stress issues with the solder joints. I think I'll be going the same route you guys did, crimp a better-sized terminal on, and revisit as needed.

My plan was to add an amp and a sub, and reuse two of the OEM speakers for midship sound, and replace the reused OEM pair as funding allows. At this point, the sub and amp will be done later as well, but those Polk's have been sitting in their boxes just taunting and laughing at me.

Thanks for the confirmation guys
 

212s

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These posts help tremendously. I've got all the common sizes in a kit, and I've done some work on several cars over the years, but never stumbled across these super skinny terminals before.
Same here, done lots of upgrades years ago but newer vehicles have good sound systems so no need lately. Years ago speakers had the same size lugs with +/- markings...but I guess dummies have been wiring things backwards and complaining about poor sound (for those who don't know, wiring speakers backwards doesn't hurt the speakers, just puts the woofers out of phase so cancels lower freqs and sounds thin).
I didn't want to solder them due to the bouncing around of the boat, and eventually having stress issues with the solder joints. I think I'll be going the same route you guys did, crimp a better-sized terminal on, and revisit as needed.
Same here again, I only solder if I really need to as soldering requires you heat up the two ends to get the solder to flow smoothly. I think a good spade works just fine and should last. Careful when pushing on the female connector, you might need to hold the lug with some needle nose pliers if you have them - I was afraid of them bending when putting on the connectors so held them with the pliers to get a snug fit.
those Polk's have been sitting in their boxes just taunting and laughing at me.
Don't let them taunt you! Get those suckers in there ASAP and the taunting will be drowned out by the music!
🎵🎵
 
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