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This might be part of the issue - factory wiring typically does not do 2 ohm loads. Check your wiring and I think you'll find 4/8 ohm loads across multiple speakers.
I don't have the same setup, but this sounds like a wiring/RCA issue?
this particular boat has two zones. The front zone has four speakers, channels one and two wired in parallel. This would be the two ohm zone. The rear zone, channel 3 and four, are dedicated to a single speaker each. This is the four ohm zone. Just verified all of these measurements and they check out. I agree that it seems like something to do with the RCA connections or the Connext audio output.
this is really throwing me for a loop. I’m going to try the LOC and see if that makes a difference.
I don’t mind adding another battery switch for the audio bank if needed. This is the last part of the design I need to figure out so I appreciate the help.
If you install another switch you can isolate the two 31 batteries when charging which is good, and if you run the switch to the house it'll charge when you're running the boat engines. However the charging system will take all day to charge up all of those batteries so you will have to make sure you get the charger plugged in as soon as you get back. If you forget to charge them they'll start to deteriorate quickly. The two 31 batteries in parallel will be seen as one bank to your charger, so don't connect charging leads to both, just one and they'll charge together. Same
Is one of the new 24 batteries the start? Or do you have a total of five batteries?
If you install another switch you can isolate the two 31 batteries when charging which is good, and if you run the switch to the house it'll charge when you're running the boat engines. However the charging system will take all day to charge up all of those batteries so you will have to make sure you get the charger plugged in as soon as you get back. If you forget to charge them they'll start to deteriorate quickly. The two 31 batteries in parallel will be seen as one bank to your charger, so don't connect charging leads to both, just one and they'll charge together. Same
Is one of the new 24 batteries the start? Or do you have a total of five batteries?
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Ok I think I am going to go that route then with another switch. I have 5 batteries. 1 start (24 series) , 2 house (24 series), 2 audio bank( 31 series). Would it make sense to run one charger bank to the start, one on the house parallel bank and then 2 charger banks at 10amp each to the series 31 batteries?
Ok I think I am going to go that route then with another switch. I have 5 batteries. 1 start (24 series) , 2 house (24 series), 2 audio bank( 31 series). Would it make sense to run one charger bank to the start, one on the house parallel bank and then 2 charger banks at 10amp each to the series 31 batteries?
Sure you can do that, but you need to install a switch between the two 31 batteries or else the charger will see them both as "one" bank and not charge with both sets of charging wires. That means adding two switches, one for the 31 bank, and one to break up the bank when charging. This means you will need to ensure you turn off all the switches when charging but it'll work well.
So just to keep the thread updated, I ordered these, which, to no surprise, did not work. I have now ordered a pair of these and really hoping they do the trick. It'd be nice if it did sort this mess out, as now I'd have a dedicated sub output as well. I'll post an update with results.
Sure you can do that, but you need to install a switch between the two 31 batteries or else the charger will see them both as "one" bank and not charge with both sets of charging wires. That means adding two switches, one for the 31 bank, and one to break up the bank when charging. This means you will need to ensure you turn off all the switches when charging but it'll work well.
Thanks sounds good. I normally shut all switches off when charging now. Last part I need to figure out is the wiring. In this solution would I run the power to the new Audio bank of batteries directly to the house 1 switch from the factory on the output side connector? I have a 200amp circuit breaker on each 31 series battery and 350amp fuse ( based on total amp draw of 330amps and ohms I’m running) at the connection point. I have two bus bars and a fuse panel going in next to the amp rack behind the helm so I can add accessories without going back to the battery. Anything else I might be overlooking? Thanks again for all the help!
So just to keep the thread updated, I ordered these, which, to no surprise, did not work. I have now ordered a pair of these and really hoping they do the trick. It'd be nice if it did sort this mess out, as now I'd have a dedicated sub output as well. I'll post an update with results.
I had issues with running the high level input converter adapter as well so I decided to use a LCI1 and use a wet sounds BT 220BT zone controller. I only used two channels off the factory wiring as I decided to use the zone volumes rather then fading from front to rear. The LC1 is similar to the Lc2 you ordered so hopefully that fixes your issue as well.
Thanks sounds good. I normally shut all switches off when charging now. Last part I need to figure out is the wiring. In this solution would I run the power to the new Audio bank of batteries directly to the house 1 switch from the factory on the output side connector? I have a 200amp circuit breaker on each 31 series battery and 350amp fuse ( based on total amp draw of 330amps and ohms I’m running) at the connection point. I have two bus bars and a fuse panel going in next to the amp rack behind the helm so I can add accessories without going back to the battery. Anything else I might be overlooking? Thanks again for all the help!
I wouldn't use the House switch at all as it means adding more current through the house switch. If you're drawing up to 330a just for the stereo system you need to separate them. I believe the switches are rated around 275a each. Check their ratings and make sure your switches can handle the current draw (heavy duty switches can handle up to 600a) or use multiple switches to spread out the current draw.
I wouldn't use the House switch at all as it means adding more current through the house switch. If you're drawing up to 330a just for the stereo system you need to separate them. I believe the switches are rated around 275a each. Check their ratings and make sure your switches can handle the current draw (heavy duty switches can handle up to 600a) or use multiple switches to spread out the current draw.
Ok sounds good. yes I have a HD switch for the group 31 batteries. I didnt know how to wire the audio bank so it still charged while running without going through the house switch. is there another way? The factory setup has a dvsr, start, emergency parallel, house switch.
Ok sounds good. yes I have a HD switch for the group 31 batteries. I didnt know how to wire the audio bank so it still charged while running without going through the house switch. is there another way? The factory setup has a dvsr, start, emergency parallel, house switch.
You can wire the house switch to the 31's to charge while the engines are running, but you need to make sure the stereo is wired to the 31 batteries' switch, not through the house switch. That would separate the 31's for the stereo, and still allow them to charge. But note that the charging system will not charge the batteries if you're cranking that system while cruising as the current draw is much higher than what the charging system produces.
The charging system on these 1.8L engines is roughly able to produce 56a max, but running the electrical system means about 30-40a is available for charging. If you're drawing more than 40a from the stereo, then the batteries are still draining.
You can wire the house switch to the 31's to charge while the engines are running, but you need to make sure the stereo is wired to the 31 batteries' switch, not through the house switch. That would separate the 31's for the stereo, and still allow them to charge. But note that the charging system will not charge the batteries if you're cranking that system while cruising as the current draw is much higher than what the charging system produces.
The charging system on these 1.8L engines is roughly able to produce 56a max, but running the electrical system means about 30-40a is available for charging. If you're drawing more than 40a from the stereo, then the batteries are still draining.
So I decided to just take the old 24 series house batteries out and used the 31 series as house batteries. It simplified the wiring process and I figured i really wasn’t losing much capacity. I also cut the DVSR ground and put a toggle switch in so I can shut it off while using the onboard charger. Thanks again for all the help! Really appreciate it!
So I decided to just take the old 24 series house batteries out and used the 31 series as house batteries. It simplified the wiring process and I figured i really wasn’t losing much capacity. I also cut the DVSR ground and put a toggle switch in so I can shut it off while using the onboard charger. Thanks again for all the help! Really appreciate it!
Started running real power lines up to the helm. They're slightly larger than the factory power feeds.
Pulled the tank cover, and there's a super easy channel to run the wires through up to the helm. Took me 5 minutes each by myself with a fish tape. Hardest part was the dance back and forth up to the helm over the open tank compartment.
You can pass them from there into the switch compartment easily.
I tapped the positive to the house battery switch and upsized the wire from that to the battery.
Hi, Im not familiar with stereo systems at all. Where is the amp located ? I have a brand new AR 250 and sound is horrible. Not sure what can be done that cost an arm and an a leg
Hi, Im not familiar with stereo systems at all. Where is the amp located ? I have a brand new AR 250 and sound is horrible. Not sure what can be done that cost an arm and an a leg
Hi, Im not familiar with stereo systems at all. Where is the amp located ? I have a brand new AR 250 and sound is horrible. Not sure what can be done that cost an arm and an a leg
I don't think the AR250 has an amp...probably just the head unit driving the six speakers. If so, that means four of the speakers are wired in series which cuts output in half. If you add an amp to drive the stock speakers, it should sound a lot better. That's what I did with my 212s using the stock Polk DB652 speakers which sound pretty good. If you're a bass hound, you'll want a sub too.
