Just started digging into the 2021 SX250/AR250 audio system

[jocolo21]

This is the exact same issue I'm having right now. Last night nothing but static and no sound. Went out this morning and turned on the batteries and radio and it all worked great with no noise and had audio. I tuned the system a bit and let it play for like 30 minutes with no issues. I heard the dog barking so I turned off the key and walked outside for like 2 minutes. Came back in and turned the key on and boom.... no sound and all static.

I ordered a LC2 last night to wire in to see if that helps. But I will have to split the output side like 4 times to feed the amps. Hope that isn't an issue.

Just get some splitters,y connectors.

 

[Amar Nanduri]

I am trying to upgrade the speakers on my ar250. If I swap the factory Wetsounds HTX4 with a HTX6 and run parallel wiring with new ws speakers replacing the factory speakers, will that do the job ? Not interested in tower speakers or a sub woofer. What all do I need to watch out for ? Thanks a lot.

 

[Amar Nanduri]

Update.... Boat is finally here. I would like to remove all the stock items , speakers and amp. I ordered new 6.5's and (3) amps. Would I be able to just wire in the set of RCA's from the connect to feed the new amps and then run all new wiring to each location? I ordered 14g speaker wire for each location and 16g wire for the LED wiring.

1 amp for the (6) 6.5 speakers
1 amp for the tower speakers
1 amp for the two 10" subs

1/0 power and ground from battery to fuse blocks, then #4 power and ground to each amp

how did this work out for you ? Anything to watch out for ? Thanks

 

[KCAR250]

For anyone wondering, the Skar Audio SK75MB speaker set, fits BARELY in the rear swim deck location. You have to widen the hole by about .188 all the way around, but it just barely has the right depth to fit. When I pulled the stock speakers out I said no way they would fit just becasue of how large the skar magents and casing was... but it was good to go.

How did the skar speakers turn out for you? Happy with them? Did the Skar speakers fit in the front too (other than making the opening bigger)? I was going to go with JL but they keep raising their prices. I’m looking at putting 2 6.5 in the front and back and 2 8inch in the middle of them boat and adding a JL or WetSounds sub. Figured I’d run them off two 1000w 4ch amps (150w ch) bridging two ch for the sub (300w). This setup is around $1300 and going JL or WetSounds is more then double.

 

[Jdl110]

Quick question that hopefully someone can give me advice on. I have started to put my audio in my AR250 and I have some questions on the battery setup. I will be using 2 XS power 3000 batteries hooked up in parallel and I currently have 1 starter battery and two house batteries on the perko switch. Should I just replace the two house batteries with the XS 31 series batteries or is there a reccomendation on how to leave the house batteries as is and add the new batteries separately? Would I need to install another perko switch for the audio battery bank and If so any issues while driving with the boat charging 24 series house batteries and 31 series audio battery bank at the same time? Pictures so far of the install

 

[ccbnola]

Alright, so I am in the same boat as some of you all. 2021 AR250 (small connext screen). Skar 4 channel 500watt amp. 6 new Skar 6.5" speakers. All ohm out at the 2Ohm or 4Ohms as wired from the factory. When connecting the amp, I am using all factory wires, I didnt run any new cables.

• I have verified that my RCA to speaker wire adapters all ohm out appropriately, so I show OL between the positive and negative side of all of my Cress adapters.
• Also verified that my amp accepts anywhere from .2 to 6V input.
• Based on all of that, if I hook everything up and turn on the key, I get the loud static, no sound whatsoever.
  • If I measure the mV at this time (no sound, key on) I get 0mV.
• Here's where it gets interesting. If I disconnect 3 of the input RCA's, turn on the key, I get music. Clear as can be.
  • At that point I can hook up the remaining RCA's (qty 3), and the music will play throughout all speakers very clearly.
  • When I measure mV on the input RCA's I get anywhere between 2 and 20, or more with volume up. I can get this measurement from either the single RCA that is plugged in or the other three that are disconnected.

So long story short, it only acts up when all the RCA's are plugged in. Have you all tried checking this? Do you have the same issue?

I thought perhaps the amp was seeing too much of a voltage drop with all the RCA's plugged in, so I ran a supplemental wire directly to the battery, along with the existing factory red power wire. I was hoping this would help, but sadly it didnt matter.

I'm at a loss!

Any other suggestions?

 

[adrianp89]

Does your amp have an option for balanced or unbalanced? This sounds like the issue.

 

[ccbnola]

I dont think so...? Here is a link to the manual. I did a pdf search for Balance but no results. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1199/4992/files/Skar_Audio_RP_Marine_Series_Manual.pdf?3423

 

[adrianp89]

Try using a LOC into the amp and see if that resolves your issue.

There is something funky with the Connext for sure, I ran into weird issues. I eventually used an Audio Control Matrix to feed the signal to my amps and its been good since.

 

[ccbnola]

I just bought two of these. I'll follow up, hopefully it does the trick. Thanks for your help @adrianp89

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKFSLKN?psc=1&smid=A3E6B1BQWBUOYQ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

 

[Farny]

Quick question that hopefully someone can give me advice on. I have started to put my audio in my AR250 and I have some questions on the battery setup. I will be using 2 XS power 3000 batteries hooked up in parallel and I currently have 1 starter battery and two house batteries on the perko switch. Should I just replace the two house batteries with the XS 31 series batteries or is there a reccomendation on how to leave the house batteries as is and add the new batteries separately? Would I need to install another perko switch for the audio battery bank and If so any issues while driving with the boat charging 24 series house batteries and 31 series audio battery bank at the same time? Pictures so far of the install

@212s is a great one to answer this question

I did find this ( link removed- avoiding misinformation spreading) hope the mods don’t put me in JB jail

 

[Inthrustwetrust]

Alright, so I am in the same boat as some of you all. 2021 AR250 (small connext screen). Skar 4 channel 500watt amp. 6 new Skar 6.5" speakers. All ohm out at the 2Ohm or 4Ohms as wired from the factory. When connecting the amp, I am using all factory wires, I didnt run any new cables.

• I have verified that my RCA to speaker wire adapters all ohm out appropriately, so I show OL between the positive and negative side of all of my Cress adapters.
• Also verified that my amp accepts anywhere from .2 to 6V input.
• Based on all of that, if I hook everything up and turn on the key, I get the loud static, no sound whatsoever.
  • If I measure the mV at this time (no sound, key on) I get 0mV.
• Here's where it gets interesting. If I disconnect 3 of the input RCA's, turn on the key, I get music. Clear as can be.
  • At that point I can hook up the remaining RCA's (qty 3), and the music will play throughout all speakers very clearly.
  • When I measure mV on the input RCA's I get anywhere between 2 and 20, or more with volume up. I can get this measurement from either the single RCA that is plugged in or the other three that are disconnected.

So long story short, it only acts up when all the RCA's are plugged in. Have you all tried checking this? Do you have the same issue?

I thought perhaps the amp was seeing too much of a voltage drop with all the RCA's plugged in, so I ran a supplemental wire directly to the battery, along with the existing factory red power wire. I was hoping this would help, but sadly it didnt matter.

I'm at a loss!

Any other suggestions?

What’s your crossover set to?

 

[Jdl110]

@212s is a great one to answer this question

I did find this Can I Connect Dissimilar Batteries in Parallel?

Thanks For looping in @212s And the link. I would not be connecting the 31 series and 24 series in parallel. I would either take out the 24 series house batteries or add another battery switch for the 31 series battery bank to run only the stereo. I just don’t know if I need to isolate it from the 24 series house batteries when the boat is running and charging off the motors.

 

[adrianp89]

Thanks For looping in @212s And the link. I would not be connecting the 31 series and 24 series in parallel. I would either take out the 24 series house batteries or add another battery switch for the 31 series battery bank to run only the stereo. I just don’t know if I need to isolate it from the 24 series house batteries when the boat is running and charging off the motors.

Size of battery doesn't really matter. Type of battery (AGM/Wet-Cell/etc) is where you may not want to mix.

 

[jacoviii]

As long as they are the same type of battery there are no problems. Don’t mix FLA, AGM or gel batteries in a parallel set up. They have different charge and discharge profiles.
Be sure to check the voltage of each battery before connecting in parallel If one battery has a lower voltage it will take a charge from the higher voltage one, until both voltages equal. It can be dangerous if one battery is a low capacity type and has a lower voltage. The higher voltage will charge the lower voltage one until their voltages equal. If the low voltage battery is still “good” and able to charge in the first place it will accept as much current from the good battery until it becomes fully charged. At this point the two voltages will be the

One other thing to think of when adding NEW to OLD batteries So if you fully charge last years bats let them rest 6,12,or24hrs then load test to see the resting voltage, internal resistance and capacity. If last years bat. is at (80% to90%) it will quickly make the new bats (80% to90%). Now you could add a switch between house bank 1 and 2 but once they are connected it starts the pull down. But you could set it up so once bank1 is low you switch to bank2 but never in parallel.

 

[Jdl110]

As long as they are the same type of battery there are no problems. Don’t mix FLA, AGM or gel batteries in a parallel set up. They have different charge and discharge profiles.
Be sure to check the voltage of each battery before connecting in parallel If one battery has a lower voltage it will take a charge from the higher voltage one, until both voltages equal. It can be dangerous if one battery is a low capacity type and has a lower voltage. The higher voltage will charge the lower voltage one until their voltages equal. If the low voltage battery is still “good” and able to charge in the first place it will accept as much current from the good battery until it becomes fully charged. At this point the two voltages will be the

One other thing to think of when adding NEW to OLD batteries So if you fully charge last years bats let them rest 6,12,or24hrs then load test to see the resting voltage, internal resistance and capacity. If last years bat. is at (80% to90%) it will quickly make the new bats (80% to90%). Now you could add a switch between house bank 1 and 2 but once they are connected it starts the pull down. But you could set it up so once bank1 is low you switch to bank2 but never in parallel.

Thanks. I think I am leaning towards leaving the two 24 series AGM batteries on the house 1 and creating a new battery bank for the 31 series xs power AGM batteries to run the audio system. To prevent the 31 series batteries from pulling off of the house 1 could I put an isolator in? What do you think is the best setup if I want to run a separate bank for the audio system of 31 series batteries but still leave the house 1 24 series batteries also hooked up but have them all charge when the boat is running?

 

[212s]

@212s is a great one to answer this question
I did find this Can I Connect Dissimilar Batteries in Parallel?

That link is a common misunderstanding of electron flow and suspension. Batteries are nothing more than electron storage devices, and as such they can and will equalize naturally over time. The above link suggests that one battery in a parallel/series config may over or under-charge. That's not exactly true. While high current levels can damage plates and boil electrolyte when one battery is full and the next one is not, electrons will flow through the battery circuit and be held in suspension where available capacity exists, and continue to flow to the next available suspension media (next battery). At typical current levels of 0.1c that's simply not an issue, and all charging systems regulate current flow to minimize boiling of the suspension media.

If parallel batteries were overcharged, every dual battery setup with an ACR would have "burned out" the start battery and left the house battery below 100% within days or weeks. The simple fact is electrons move along a path of least resistance, so the start battery never gets overcharged as the electrons simply move to the house battery until both batteries have equal voltage levels. Many chargers have an "equalization" feature where current is dropped lower to allow electrons to max out voltage and equalize the charge level.

Of course there is the issue of battery condition - if the start or house is sulfated, then it can't hold electrons in suspension properly. This has nothing to do with equalization of voltage/charge levels - one battery is just pooched and will need to be replaced. But if you take care of your batteries with a charger/maintainer, then you shouldn't see much of an issue until one of the batteries (probably the house) begins to "age" due to sulfation or plate damage due to high cycles. The materials in batteries do eventually wear out.

 

[212s]

2Ohm or 4Ohms as wired from the factory.

This might be part of the issue - factory wiring typically does not do 2 ohm loads. Check your wiring and I think you'll find 4/8 ohm loads across multiple speakers.

So long story short, it only acts up when all the RCA's are plugged in.

I don't have the same setup, but this sounds like a wiring/RCA issue?

 

[212s]

Thanks For looping in @212s And the link. I would not be connecting the 31 series and 24 series in parallel. I would either take out the 24 series house batteries or add another battery switch for the 31 series battery bank to run only the stereo. I just don’t know if I need to isolate it from the 24 series house batteries when the boat is running and charging off the motors.

No need to isolate. The only difference between 24 and 31 batteries is size/capacity, so you can charge both at the same time. The 31 size will just take longer to equalize. This time period is what makes people think they won't work together - they will, but it's like a slender girl and a sumo wrestler eating hot dogs...one can eat more than the other.

 

[Jdl110]

No need to isolate. The only difference between 24 and 31 batteries is size/capacity, so you can charge both at the same time. The 31 size will just take longer to equalize. This time period is what makes people think they won't work together - they will, but it's like a slender girl and a sumo wrestler eating hot dogs...one can eat more than the other.

Thanks I appreciate all the help. I come from a car audio background so the marine battery side is a bit new to me. I re wired the whole boat with new speaker wire, RGB cords and ran 0 gauge to the amp rack. I am powering 1 M5 1000 watt, 3 M5 800s so roughly 3400 watts. Those are dynamic power ratings, So realistically 2800. I bought two 24 GM batteries last year ( 70ah) before i decided to build the audio upgrade so they are new batteries on the house side. I have a 4 bank guest onboard charger (40amp) and 2 xs power 3000 31 series batteries at 120ah wired in parallel for the audio. I want to be able to just plug in my one on board charger plug and charge the whole system and also have it when the boat is running to charge all banks. How would you recommend I set this up? Currently the boat has two battery switches and an ermergency yellow parallel switch. Imaged attached. I don’t mind adding another battery switch for the audio bank if needed. This is the last part of the design I need to figure out so I appreciate the help.