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Most modern amps can auto-detect between the signal and adjust accordingly. Have you checked voltage on the tips? You can try something like these, it sounds like the RCAs aren't the easiest to solder.
Yea, and I had thought that most modern armps produced were able to select between high and low input signal, but this one that I have is specifically listed at low level input only.
That is pretty much what i have soldered onto my leads right now, except its from rockford fosgate, just hard wire ends.
Yea, and I had thought that most modern armps produced were able to select between high and low input signal, but this one that I have is specifically listed at low level input only.
That is pretty much what i have soldered onto my leads right now, except its from rockford fosgate, just hard wire ends.
Finally got the New amplifier installed, and everything works great! Im kind of disappointed that i happened to chose the only amp made these days that wont accept low and high level input, but im just glad its all fixed up now. On the water this weekend!
Now ive got to move onto adding a small subwoofer to the 5th channel.
It's pretty meager. Amp is the Wet Sounds HTX4. (DSP)The speakers are 25w RMS Jensen MS650s. So they've got a 400W RMS (100x4 @4ohm) amp driving 150w RMS worth of speakers total. Or, taken another way, $650 worth of amp driving about $125 worth of speakers total. DSP must be seriously cutting the gain to keep from smoking the little plastic fantastics.
I can also see from equalizing the input and observing the output the DSP has pretty much entirely cut off everything from about 80 hz and below. I haven't chased wires back yet to see if perhaps some are wired in series as well to lower the output. It wouldn't surprise me.
The end result is that it can put out an acceptable volume. It would play loud enough to hear ok even at speed I think. But it's very compressed. If horribly compressed Sirius satellite audio through an economy car stereo is not annoying to you, this will probably work just fine. Think music playing through an Amazon Echo sound quality.
I’ve been considering replacing the stock ASA MS650’s, with 6 wetsounds 6.5” speakers.
Question I have is, can you keep the stock HTX and just increase the output to match the new speakers? Thereby, increasing output?
sorry confused on how else they would detune the amp?
So new to the forum. I have a new 22 AR250 on order. I know that the audio is junk. I plan on trashing all of it. I'm a huge fan of leds. I plan on all the speakers and towers to have leds. I've been reviewing all the major brands like Wetsounds, JL, Kicker and so on. I have a bunch of friends that have the DS18 setups on our SXS's. I'm leaning towards that route. Anyone have experience with them? I will list my wishlist below.
8 of the 6.5's
4 of the 8" towers
2 of the 10" subs
3 of the 4 channel 100w rms amps
1 of the 1 channel 700w rms maps
My goal is to be loud and clear.
I have no problem rewiring the whole boat. I plan on using 16g jacked speaker wire and 4 wire rbg power wires to each location. I might even through in some of the rbg cup holders while I'm at it.
First, thanks for all the knowledge and info that has been shared on this thread. I have an AR250 and will be putting in a new system this off-season. I have ordered my product and the rockford fosgate rep has said to expect all items by mid October. Please Let me know if you see anything that won’t work or items I should be aware of on the AR250. I am also adding a 4th 6.5 by the captain seats both port and starboard side. Any reccomendations on placing speakers down by the bottom or behind throttles for location? Is there room in both locations without spacers? I will be cutting the HTX 4 plug and running the inputs into the 200BT.
items I ordered
2 M2 IB 10 inch subs 2 ohms
4 M2 6.5s cabin speakers 4 ohms
pair of M2 8 inch tower Horns 4 ohms
1 M5 1000x1
2 M5 800 x4
WS -200BT zone controller
3 group 27 batteries in parallel
2 optix controllers
zones will be
1) bow
2) mid cabin, rear cabin, swim platform
3) towers
4) sub
power plan
M5 1000 powering subs at 400-450 RMS per channel at 1 ohms
M5 800 powering cans at 250 RMS per channel at 4 ohms
M5 800 powering 6.5s bridged at 2 ohms at 200 per channel
anything else I am over looking or looks to be an issue?
I am well versed in car audio but haven’t built a marine system yet.
green is left and right is purple. Not to be an asshole, if you don’t know standard wire colors, you probably should just buy an piece instead of building one.
green is left and right is purple. Not to be an asshole, if you don’t know standard wire colors, you probably should just buy an piece instead of building one.
I am aware that there is an E.I.A (Electronics Industry Association) standard for the colors, but most vehicles I have done installations in use their own color codes. That is why I was asking for someone who has experience with Yamaha boats. As for buying instead of building, I would be glad too, but I have yet to come across a product that uses the TE Connectivity connectors used in the stock system. If you are aware of something, I would love to hear about it, as I'm sure others would as well.
I have the part numbers for the connectors for the HTX-6 amplifier for the 252SE. Not sure what the AR250 is using. In my instance I am using those paired with an AudioControl Matrix Plus to clean and boost the signal.
Here is my completed Inline Line Level Tap for my AR250. It is to be inserted between the head unit and the stock amp using the original connectors (not splicing required). I can then add additional amps to either of the supported zones using standard RCA connectors.
Here is my completed Inline Line Level Tap for my AR250. It is to be inserted between the head unit and the stock amp using the original connectors (not splicing required). I can then add additional amps to either of the supported zones using standard RCA connectors.
www.crutchfield.com
