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Completed LectroTab Trim Tabs Group Buy 2020-Ends March 31 2020

Aloha @Jerry Ferrera i don’t understand what u mean. Flush mount the upper part? So out of the box the actuator won’t sit flush without twisting it?
Yes you must twist the actuators end they swivel.
 
OK guys..... Be straight with me. On a scale of 1-10, how much do these help in choppy water? I am considering pulling the trigger on these for my 2019 242 Limited SE. Instead of trailering to the ICW, we have been running the river from downtown here and it is choppy about 80% of the time.
 
OK guys..... Be straight with me. On a scale of 1-10, how much do these help in choppy water? I am considering pulling the trigger on these for my 2019 242 Limited SE. Instead of trailering to the ICW, we have been running the river from downtown here and it is choppy about 80% of the time.
Aloha @redthumper9 i hoping to take out on sea trial soon and I‘ll keep u all informed.??
 
Last edited:
@tdonoughue need more pictures!
So, here is what we did before tonight:
IMG_20200429_212951.jpgIMG_20200429_212945.jpgIMG_20200429_212926.jpg

Tonight I added the dreaded #7 wire to the ignition. First, I removed one of the ignition switches from the helm. Easier to work on that way:
IMG_20200429_201542.jpg
Snipped the red/yellow wire as instructed; slipped on a hunk of shrink wrap tubing and soldered the wire back together along with the wire to to go #7 (blue). Then shrunk the shrink wrap:
IMG_20200429_202224.jpg
I pulled the wire through to the controller and attached it. Then, I decided to try to get the hardware I dropped down into the bilge (a wing nut and a washer) and properly attach the controller. So, I pulled the throttles:
IMG_20200429_210424.jpg
Actually found the washer (not the wing nut, but that is ok--it was the 3rd one), and while I was fishing that out noticed another on the floor that I must have dropped and missed. While I had it all out, I redrilled the holes for the controller just a bit lower, so I would not have to cut the upper box.
IMG_20200429_211520.jpg
Put it all back together, but the thing was black as you can see. Pressed the buttons--nothing. Promptly traced the power wires, found faults, corrected them. Then plugged it in and it worked! But each time I set the tabs, they autoretracted 15 seconds later. Thought for sure I had the wrong wire from the ignition switch. Got out the multimeter across #7 and ground as I worked the ignition switch. 0 volts--in all positions.

Apparently you need to plug that ignition switch you pulled back in, or it gets no power. Duh.
IMG_20200429_211525.jpg

Works perfectly. Can't wait to take her out and try it!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200429_202605.jpg
    IMG_20200429_202605.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 33
So, here is what we did before tonight:
View attachment 117374View attachment 117373View attachment 117372

Tonight I added the dreaded #7 wire to the ignition. First, I removed one of the ignition switches from the helm. Easier to work on that way:
View attachment 117365
Snipped the red/yellow wire as instructed; slipped on a hunk of shrink wrap tubing and soldered the wire back together along with the wire to to go #7 (blue). Then shrunk the shrink wrap:
View attachment 117366
I pulled the wire through to the controller and attached it. Then, I decided to try to get the hardware I dropped down into the bilge (a wing nut and a washer) and properly attach the controller. So, I pulled the throttles:
View attachment 117368
Actually found the washer (not the wing nut, but that is ok--it was the 3rd one), and while I was fishing that out noticed another on the floor that I must have dropped and missed. While I had it all out, I redrilled the holes for the controller just a bit lower, so I would not have to cut the upper box.
View attachment 117369
Put it all back together, but the thing was black as you can see. Pressed the buttons--nothing. Promptly traced the power wires, found faults, corrected them. Then plugged it in and it worked! But each time I set the tabs, they autoretracted 15 seconds later. Thought for sure I had the wrong wire from the ignition switch. Got out the multimeter across #7 and ground as I worked the ignition switch. 0 volts--in all positions.

Apparently you need to plug that ignition switch you pulled back in, or it gets no power. Duh.
View attachment 117371

Works perfectly. Can't wait to take her out and try it!
With the ALC you don't need the igntion wire. It senses when not moving and retracts the tabs
 
With the ALC you don't need the igntion wire. It senses when not moving and retracts the tabs
Good to know. I have the MLC. Didn't want to drop the extra dime for that...
 
I ordered today. Do they come with all the needed hardware?
 
I ordered today. Do they come with all the needed hardware?
Did they give you the discount. I'm jealous of the guys that got in on this deal.
 
@Chillypilot I did get a discount. Russ told me that he always gives a discount for members of the Jetboaters forum....plus if you mention the group buy, he gives a little more. It wasn't the group buy price, but I thought it was more than fair.
 
I ordered today. Do they come with all the needed hardware?

@redthumper9 see post #156.
3 oz tube 5200 Fast Cure silicone adhesive
23 (get 25) #14-1-1/4 stainless steel pan head self tapping screws
Spool of 14awg wire
4 hours start to finish
1 bottle of Ardbeg single malt and a whiskey glass with two chilled stones to celebrate your achievement (after the install)
 
Sea (well, lake) trial today. It is a different boat. Ok, not always smooth, but you can get a much smoother ride at a much more reasonable speed. And it corrects the steering so you can actually steer instead of fighting against the wind or current all the time. Very pleased.

Thanks to all of you who not only set this up, but also all those who led the way and figured out the solution here for us. Nicely done, and I greatly appreciate it!
 
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