Lectrotab Trim Tabs

[2nazt]

Great video @Bruce thanks for sharing that

 

[Ed Miranda]

@Glassman - I have few questions regarding your tabs. I read Bruce was able to drill the actuator mounts close to the U-bolt - which is a thicker/reinforced part of the hull. Did you do the same? it looks like your actuator is further away from the U-bolt. did you reinforce from the inside, did you screw in or use bolts? Lastly are your tabs 12X12? thank you

Edited by txav8r to address @Glassman

 

[zipper]

I ordered a few weeks ago and just received my trim tabs today. Kit #XKASML12x12-9051. Contents are 12x12 S.S. tabs with edges bent down, long actuators, and manual controller MLC-1. I will be installing soon as the boating season has begun up here, even though it snowed last night and melted by 10am. I will be reading all the trim tab threads again looking for tips while I wait for temps to rise. As @Bruce had mentioned, nice packaging, and they certainly feel heavy duty. So any inputs from you guys who have installed them before are welcome. The picture may be redundant but here is the kit.

 

[swatski]

I ordered a few weeks ago and just received my trim tabs today. Kit #XKASML12x12-9051. Contents are 12x12 S.S. tabs with edges bent down, long actuators, and manual controller MLC-1. I will be installing soon as the boating season has begun up here, even though it snowed last night and melted by 10am. I will be reading all the trim tab threads again looking for tips while I wait for temps to rise. As @Bruce had mentioned, nice packaging, and they certainly feel heavy duty. So any inputs from you guys who have installed them before are welcome. The picture may be redundant but here is the kit.
View attachment 55557

I know that @rocknracing is in the process of installing his, hope he can chime in, he is a pro.

For my install I used self-tapping screws SS #12 but @rocknracing pointed out #14 would be better.
My install went well, I was able to torque those screws real tight, have a pretty good feeling about it. The key, I think, is pre-drilling the holes the perfect size. In my case - with #12 SS screws (from Menards, self-tapping, sheet metal, full thread) - the best fit was w/ 11/64 drill bit.

BTW - if you still have the 5" scrap fiberglass cutouts from your speaker install - you could use those for testing the screw fit, as screws from different sources will fit a bit different and fiberglass is so different and so unforgiving. But I don't need to tell you that!

--

 

[zipper]

@swatski Thank you for the reply, I appreciate the input. My Tab Plate Installation page, in the Installation Manual call for #14 x 1 1/4" pan head S.S. screws. I do like Menards, although we do not have one in the area, we used them to source the poly wall panels for the interior of our cheese facility 12 years ago. I do have several Fastenals around and will most likely use them as the source. I do not have any cut outs, as I only replaced the 4 cockpit speakers, but I am comfortable with drilling. I grew up around fiberglass as my father built hand laid hulls and dune buggy bodies in the 60s and 70s. He used to take other body styles, create a mold, and then cast new and modified styles of them. I had all those molds in my barn until a fire in 1996 destroyed them all. Sucks. I cannot wait to start the install and get into the area under the clean out tray, I love discovering and learning everything I can about the un-seen areas of this boat. It helps me to realize how and why they were designed/built the way they were. Anal? Ya its the way I am, coming from a former product/facilities designer turned farmer. Again thanks.

 

[rocknracing]

I was hoping to get mine installed last week but with work and all of the rain we have been getting I wasn't able to yet. We ended up taking the boat to the lake this past weekend for my sons 3rd birthday and left it up there on the lift so hoping to get them installed when we bring it back memorial day weekend before we head to table rock lake. I think I would of been in big trouble from my 3 year old if I had it only half done and wasn't able to go to the lake. I bought my #14 x1 1/4" pan head SS screws online at Bolt Depot for $0.46 each.

 

[Bruce]

I used stainless pan head screws from a local Tractor Supply. I predrilled the holes and filled them with 3M 5200 before installing the screws with a small cordless impact. They are holding up fine after three summers of use.

 

[Scuba_ref]

I ordered a few weeks ago and just received my trim tabs today. Kit #XKASML12x12-9051. Contents are 12x12 S.S. tabs with edges bent down, long actuators, and manual controller MLC-1. I will be installing soon as the boating season has begun up here, even though it snowed last night and melted by 10am. I will be reading all the trim tab threads again looking for tips while I wait for temps to rise. As @Bruce had mentioned, nice packaging, and they certainly feel heavy duty. So any inputs from you guys who have installed them before are welcome. The picture may be redundant but here is the kit.
View attachment 55557

@zipper where did you order them from?

 

[zipper]

@Scuba_ref Lectrotab, Ashland, Va. $735 w/ shipping

 

[zipper]

How about the 3M-5200, do you recommend the regular (7day) or fast cure? Is one more durable than the other? It is early in the season, so it could sit to cure for a while, although the wife may have other plans.

 

[swatski]

How about the 3M-5200, do you recommend the regular (7day) or fast cure? Is one more durable than the other? It is early in the season, so it could sit to cure for a while, although the wife may have other plans.

Definitely fast cure if you can get it. Which is still slow cure (24hrs).
I used the regular but it takes forever. The good think is it cures faster wet or underwater,too. But it takes about a week....

--

 

[zipper]

That is correct. I was able to mount them without shims. I reversed the direction of the actuator at the bottom mount then rotated the shaft until it lined up for mounting. I believe that Lectrotab will ship the Yamaha kits with the actuator reversed. I used a punch to do so and confirmed with Lectrotab that it was an acceptable way to mount.

I just wanted to confirm that you reversed 180 deg. this mount to the tabs. It does not seem to have full motion as shipped. Punching out the plastic pin and reusing it fit ok after? Or did you use different hardware? Getting ready to install and wanted to verify. Thanks
Reading your previous posts, that was your only modification?

 

[Betik]

I think you can just twist the actuator. You just need to put some strength to it.

 

[swatski]

I just wanted to confirm that you reversed 180 deg. this mount to the tabs. It does not seem to have full motion as shipped. Punching out the plastic pin and reusing it fit ok after? Or did you use different hardware? Getting ready to install and wanted to verify. Thanks
View attachment 55644 Reading your previous posts, that was your only modification?View attachment 55645

Yes you can turn those around but will help to extend the ram, need to connect to a battery. That is what Dan from the company told me and it worked/ made it easy . I can find his email if you want confirmation.

--

 

[Betik]

Here is what mine look like fully rectracted. I used the #12 screws. I will find out his weekend if they hold up or not.

 

[zipper]

@swatski I have it thanks anyway. I will use the tip.

 

[zipper]

I think you can just twist the actuator. You just need to put some strength to it.

Ok thanks, was worried about removing/damaging pin.

 

[zipper]

Man, you guys are full of problem solving, loving it!

 

[zipper]

@Betik @swatski Great tip, thanks. I just went down to the arena, where the boat and tabs are, and applied a little torsional force, while retracted. Turned them both around in about 10 secs. A lot easier than removing the pin. There is a holiday this weekend, but I still hope to get them installed.

 

[zipper]

Update: Finished the install of my trim tabs. I have not tested out on the lake yet, but will soon. I did cut a piece of 1/4" HDPE for a shim, under the hinge, at the step in the hull. It brings the tab to 3/16" from the bottom of the hull at the 7/8" step. Lectrotab instructions were detailed and easy to follow. I did use #14 1 1/2" SS pan heads due to the shim I added. I also found it necessary to re-drill the (2) Tab/Actuator mounting holes an inch aft to allow the bracket to not hit the hull. Not concerned with changing stress point as these tabs are strong with edges bent down, Lectrotab said the factory mounting point may interfere. Sealed all hull mounting holes, shim and tab, with 3-M 5200, keep that stuff out of your hair, it likes to drip. Pulled the clean out plug tray to run control wiring to the starboard side and forward to the the helm. Mounted controller in front of the throttles.

retracteddeployedbottom of controller with vent tubes down