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MR1 issues

Babin Farms

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral
Messages
3,797
Reaction score
12,491
Points
507
Location
Lower Alabama
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2009
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
My problems started last season on our last outing doing the Starved Rock to Peoria run. Part way back to Starved Rock the port engine acted like it dropped a cylinder and the overheat light came on even though the pissers were both working. Low on power and the exhaust didn't have the typical whine, it was more of a rumble so I checked the oil and other basics, couldn't figure it out so we limped back, put it on the trailer and headed home. The boat sat until this spring when I was able to finally take a look at it to figure out the issue. I hooked up the YDS and did not have any current codes so with the help of a couple forum members we've been trying to figure this out. Going with the overheat warning I pulled both of the impellers, checked them over, checked the inlet strainer, liners, sealant and anything else but could not find an issue. Ran it on the hose and got an overheat warning after a couple minutes so I checked the oil again, pulled the spark plugs and found #3 to be fouled so I put a good, old plug from the prior year and the engine ran a lot smoother and no more overheat warning. Still trying to figure out why a fouled plug would trigger an overheat and the only thing we can think of is that there is a temp sensor close to #3 cyl and without the exhaust pressure from the fuel detonation it's not pushing the cooling water fast enough away from the engine/sensor. After my findings I changed out all 8 spark plugs and both thermostats, ran it on the hose and had no issues. Problem solved.......so I thought.
After figuring out the issues we were finally able to get out on the water for the first time this season last Sunday. We cruised around enough to use 1/4 tank of fuel but I started noticing that the port engine's exhaust was sounding different again. This time it had just a slight rumble that most people wouldn't have even noticed so we headed in, loaded up and went home. I pulled the spark plugs figuring that #3 was going to be fouled again but this time #2 was the culprit but this time it looked like it was straight out of the box when the other 3 were a good cardboard brown so my thought was a bad plug. Swapped out #2 & #3 plugs and cylinder #2 was getting the plug wet. At this point I thought maybe bad coil so I swapped them out and still nothing changed. Next I hooked up the YDS and did a spark test and all was good on that engine which led me to believe that I have an injector sticking so I checked the oil and it was gassy smelling and was overfull. The best way to verify this is not easy at all but I swapped the ECM's and the problem followed the ECM. Now it's figuring out which is the best route to take with the ECM, repair, replace with used(if I can find one) or just buy new. Contacted https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ and it looks like about 3-4 weeks for repairs and waiting to hear back from Carmo Electronics, The place for parts or electronics for your Motorbike Quad Scooter Car or Jetski. I have read thread after thread on this issue but if anyone has any other sources please share.

Edit: Looking at the email I received from regulatorrectifiers they are Carmousa
 
I used Carmo for the same issue last year. No issues with the results and I think turnaround time with shipping was under a month.
 
Nice job diagnosing and getting to the ECU. Hopefully turn around time will be short.
 
Did you have any signs of water in the ECU? or any Rust internal to the electrical box?

Best of Luck!
 
I did have a slight bit of water in the box. Not sure how it got in there but I plan on putting tape on the top & sides to help prevent water getting in.
54F662A9-776A-4680-AB80-9CB6980B255D.jpeg
 
I did have a slight bit of water in the box. Not sure how it got in there but I plan on putting tape on the top & sides to help prevent water getting in.
View attachment 179673
I guess I should check mine but I'm a "ain't broke don't fix it" kind of guy based on my experience of checking things and breaking them!
 
I've been thinking about this for some time, I wonder if some ventilation at the bottom would not be better that fully sealed. Or some indication that there's water in there. It's supposed to be sealed, but once water enters, there's no way for it to exit.
 
I've been thinking about this for some time, I wonder if some ventilation at the bottom would not be better that fully sealed. Or some indication that there's water in there. It's supposed to be sealed, but once water enters, there's no way for it to exit.
That’s the thing, it’s got a gasket and is sealed except for where the wires go into it at the bottom & there are tight grommets there so is it just condensation or is water actually getting in??? The other box was bone dry so it makes me wonder if the drain hose above the port ECM box is dripping on it occasionally and seeping in or something else?? Dunno??
 
It's possible the water dripping from the hose eventually sits on top and seeps in?

I struggle too with the supposed source of the water.
 
I took mine apart years ago and it was bone dry. Mine is a 212X. So it must be something to do with the 230 series.
 
From everything that I've read it seems like a majority of the time its the port side that goes bad which is where the drain lines runs. Is this the culprit? Dunno but it seems like it's the only difference between the two sides.
1654520014992.png
 
Nice job diagnosing and getting to the ECU. Hopefully turn around time will be short.

I will second @zipper remarks, excellent job troubleshooting this problem! Hope you get your ECU back post haste!
 
Does that drain line hold water at all? Just wondering about the angle of the thru hull fitting. Does it leak? I was just looking at a picture of mine to refresh memory. It, the ECU, is tucked back there.

20220606_103311.jpg
 
Does that drain line hold water at all? Just wondering about the angle of the thru hull fitting. Does it leak? I was just looking at a picture of mine to refresh memory. It, the ECU, is tucked back there.
I'll have to check mine out and do some testing to see if it leaks.
 
My port side was the side that had issues but when I opened the starboard side it did have a little bit of water and signs of rust in it. I put a bead of silicone across the top of each ECU case.
 
Hooked up the ECM & started it up. Sounds better and #2 plug looks good. Did a complete oil change in both engines. The port side was significantly thinner and pumped a lot quicker than the starboard.
Here’s the difference in what was drained from the two engines. First pic was with the bad ECM and about 4.5q-4.75qts plus about 1/2pt from filter change The other engine had roughly 3.5qt plus 1/2pt from filter change.
0A3532AE-6DC1-4687-AB01-57474DA311B0.jpeg784CCFFE-0256-46C5-BB8D-572E8F79E54B.jpeg
 
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