New Speed Control / Electronic Throttle Synch For Twins / Ridesteady by Hydrophase

[Mainah]

Just a quick post to say I was able to install hydrophase enough to use it yesterday. My brother who had never driven my boat before was able to give me an ideal wakeboarding run. The stock settings seem good IMO. I will do a deeper write up in the next couple of weeks.

 

[swatski]

I LOVE this system. It is so good. My wife was driving today and I had a blast (finally) wakeboarding myself, only because it was a bit chilly. She commented on how easy and intuitive the ridesteady is.

I use it all the time now just riding/cruising, set and then adjust RPM with the knob is easier and more fun than moving the throttles. And it synchs my engines so that I don't have to obsess about it.

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[FloJet]

Just a quick post to say I was able to install hydrophase enough to use it yesterday. My brother who had never driven my boat before was able to give me an ideal wakeboarding run. The stock settings seem good IMO. I will do a deeper write up in the next couple of weeks.

How long did it take you to install the whole system?

 

[Mainah]

How long did it take you to install the whole system?

Hard to say. I installed another pair of speakers and a unique alarm system while I was at it. I was able to do it all while at my slip in the water and I would say the longest part is running and securing the wires. Justin made it very easy with his stock connectors and the instructions are very good. I would say 20 minutes in the engine bay, 30 minutes behind the helm (sockets needed to loosen dash face plate to pass wires for display and gps attenna), and 30 minutes running the wires down the starboard side. Add to that gathering and cleaning up tools so I would say about 2 hours. Quick tip is to have a manual screwdriver handy to help release the stock TPS connectors.

I did run all of the wires and had to stop before I hooked up the Hydrodphase CPU. I went back the next morning and was planning on heading out on the boat. The engines quit immediately because I did not have the cpu hooked up. So you do need to complete the entire install at once.

 

[J-RAD]

I've been following this forum for various topics since I purchased my Yami 1 year ago (joined today). It's proven very helpful time and time again. I came across this thread specifically after an ad for the @Ridesteady show up on my FB feed a few months ago and I began to investigate and returned a few times to see the progression of things and for you guys to keep talking me into it. It didn't take me long to decide I wanted it... it's been on my mind more and more as I've prepped for the season... and even more so after following your accounts of successful installs. Today I finally decided, "What the hell?!" and flipped for it. I should have it by Thursday, and if all goes well with the install I'll testing it out on some memorial day fun!

 

[swatski]

I've been following this forum for various topics since I purchased my Yami 1 year ago (joined today). It's proven very helpful time and time again. I came across this thread specifically after an ad for the @Ridesteady show up on my FB feed a few months ago and I began to investigate and returned a few times to see the progression of things and for you guys to keep talking me into it. It didn't take me long to decide I wanted it... it's been on my mind more and more as I've prepped for the season... and even more so after following your accounts of successful installs. Today I finally decided, "What the hell?!" and flipped for it. I should have it by Thursday, and if all goes well with the install I'll testing it out on some memorial day fun!

You are going to love it. I also think it is light years ahead of PP.
Used it again today - went wakeboarding after work, and I had a guy who has never driven my boat pull me - no problems what so ever. He remarked how easy it was. He does not own a boat, don't think he ever has.

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[J-RAD]

Thanks @swatski , I'm confident I'll enjoy it. It's clear you are an authority in all things Yamaha jet boat. You have a strong presence on this forum and I've been enlightened a number of times by you wisdom on a number of topics. My respect sir!

 

[swatski]

Thanks @swatski , I'm confident I'll enjoy it. It's clear you are an authority in all things Yamaha jet boat. You have a strong presence on this forum and I've been enlightened a number of times by you wisdom on a number of topics. My respect sir!

Thank you. I'm a follower here.

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[Mainah]

It occurred to me to mention that Ridesteady works flawlessly with my push button start mod. After pressing the red kill button in my setup ride steady retains its mode so no need to remember to turn the system on when swapping riders (perhaps Ridesteady remembers and retains the last mode even when the keys are shut off but I don't know and have not tried yet). At any rate installing Ridesteady is a great time to do a push button start mod and visa versa. Do keep in mind that Ridesteady will not automatically enter standby mode unless you shut off the keys. The reason for this is that the kill button in my mod does not disconnect the keyed power (what we ant to keep the stereo on and prevent those annoying beeps). Standby mode just uses a bit less power and shows a different screen. If you forget to change modes when you are done wakeboarding you will know as your speed will be limited but one press of the Ridesteady power button will remedy that while still underway.

 

[Mainah]

You are going to love it. I also think it is light years ahead of PP.
Used it again today - went wakeboarding after work, and I had a guy who has never driven my boat pull me - no problems what so ever. He remarked how easy it was. He does not own a boat, don't think he ever has.

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So where are the pics/video of you shredding some water?

 

[swatski]

Standby mode just uses a bit less power and shows a different screen. If you forget to change modes when you are done wakeboarding you will know as your speed will be limited but one press of the Ridesteady power button will remedy that while still underway.

I noticed that, too - just press the power button to turn the system "off" - it becomes a GPS speedo/clock/whatever else is connected to it like temps.
When I'm done and want to go back or move to a different spot - I like to switch from the GPS- to the RPM-mode which can only be done when stationary (or moving below something like 5mph).
The system can be turned on anytime though (in either GPS- or RPM-control mode), also at speed. It may just ask for some throttle adjustments (e.g. "^^^more throttle") and the boat may slow down or speed up depending on the difference between set/actual position.
Same thing when turning the system off (e.g. in the middle of a run) - it will default to whatever the throttles' position is and (usually) accelerate (according to the throttle position).

Have I mentioned how much I like the knob control? (I know I have, lol)

The one thing I keep forgetting to ask is the system's sensitivity to lower voltage /voltage drop. I know that in PP systems, voltage drop can cause significant issues, but PP motors use a good amount of power which can cause or exasperate voltage drop.
Ridesteady operates with no motors, so the power use is minimal.

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[Ridesteady]

The one thing I keep forgetting to ask is the system's sensitivity to lower voltage /voltage drop. I know that in PP systems, voltage drop can cause significant issues, but PP motors use a good amount of power which can cause or exasperate voltage drop.
Ridesteady operates with no motors, so the power use is minimal.

As long as you're above 10V you'll be fine. Below 9V, it will enter 'standby' mode in order to prevent setting changes that could write to non-volatile memory (in order to avoid memory corruption). But our CPU is powered by the main battery line as opposed to switched power, and doesn't need to power motors, so generally speaking, voltage drop shouldn't be an issue unless you have pretty worn batteries.

 

[Mainah]

As long as you're above 10V you'll be fine. Below 9V, it will enter 'standby' mode in order to prevent setting changes that could write to non-volatile memory (in order to avoid memory corruption). But our CPU is powered by the main battery line as opposed to switched power, and doesn't need to power motors, so generally speaking, voltage drop shouldn't be an issue unless you have pretty worn batteries.

I spoke with @Ridesteady in a bit of depth about the design and components of his system. I can attest that based on what was shared with me that the system should have low power consumption. The overall design is very good putting aside the moisture rich environment in which boats operate. This brings me to my only negative on the system. I wish that all of the components were fully waterproofed with seals or potted.

Two important things here based on the 10v needed. One is that Connext will shut down before that. Two is that in a pinch you can always disconnect the nodes and reconnect the the stock wires if you have enough juice to start the engines.

One more thing @Ridesteady had my unit out to me the same day I ordered. He even called me when there was a delivery exception because Fedex could not find my new house. So on the customer service side this is someone who goes the extra mile.

 

[J-RAD]

It's alive!! Planing to hit the water for a test run on Sunday. It was a fun install... I'm really pleased with where I decided to mount the unit in the space to the right of the CoNext controller. It allows me to position it up near the screen or down near the throttle levers.

Ridesteady-Dash-2

• J-RAD
• May 27, 2017
• 2

Ridesteady upper position

Ridesteady-Dash-1

• J-RAD
• May 27, 2017

Control unit lower position

 

[scokill]

I'm curious as to the installation in the mechanical throttle boats....like my 2008 AR230. I've looked at installation instructions and don't see any that line up to this model. I have had PP for years and it does pretty well...quirky with the cable routing position every now and then. I guess this isn't bad for over 7 years of ownership, but I've had to replace a servo motor and GPS antenna. The perplexing thing about the antenna is that it started taking forever to lock in on GPS satellites. I called them...very nice people by the way, and they said the GPS antenna has a battery built in that you can't replace, so essentially it was $200 for a new GPS antenna. Now it solved my problem and now I get GPS lock almost instantly, but it I wondered why go with a design like that since it's 15% of the cost of the entire unit?

I might not be in the market for this unless I have a massive failure or cost for repairing PP.

 

[Scottintexas]

I agree with scokill, my PP lcd started fading, the diagnoses from PP was "it sounds like it's getting a bit old and acting up and replacement will be 229 + 30. shipping".

I don't regret buying it but it certainly seems like there's a better mouse trap available now.

 

[Ridesteady]

@scokill Unfortunately, we don't have a solution for non-APS Yamaha jet boats. We took a look at it originally, but decided it was better to go the pure electronic route, which of course requires the APS sensor.

 

[swatski]

It is weird that all the older 210s with non-HO MR-1s have the APS while all the 230s don't...

Well, more power to all 210s!

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[swatski]

I agree with scokill, my PP lcd started fading, the diagnoses from PP was "it sounds like it's getting a bit old and acting up and replacement will be 229 + 30. shipping".

I don't regret buying it but it certainly seems like there's a better mouse trap available now.

Yep, the PP displays are known to poop out early, often just past the one year warranty.

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[John Mcpartland]

I don't see why something like the PP-mount/mold for Connext boats manufactured by JetBoatPilot wouldn't work for a standard (round) display Ridesteady gauge.
The back of the "external display" (the one I have) is just flat with a cable coming out in the corner, I will try to find a pic.
At least for now, mine is mounted using a RAM plate and VHB tape provided, the other RAM plate is attached with VHB to the edge of the dash insert. I let it cure overnight and was surprised it held up to my rides, so far.

EDIT: @Mainah I was able to sneak the cable to the external display and GPS antenna in between the dash parts, without cutting ANY holes or grinding anything. I think I may actually leave it in that location as it is very easy to reach, may just need to better support it w/ either screws or epoxy.
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EDIT 2: Here is the Jetboatpilot's PerfectPass housing, he offers for PP on his site but should work with any standard gauge.

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The round housing is unavailable for this system. I ordered mine with a round gauge and tried to order the bezel and was told that the bezel is only available for the pp and not ridesteady. The reason is because pp sends the gauge to jbp and they build/install the gauge in house then send it to the customer. I had to call and cancel the round gauge and change to the rectangular one befor they shipped.
By the way, i will be installing mine on Saturday