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The drive control system allows you to set the launch/ramp speed (slow/med/fast) and the destination speed-the speed that it will hold. There are 5 presets you can set for both settings, and the presets also allow you to preset the ballast level. So if you typically have the ballast full, then moving between one preset and another doesn't cause the ballast pumps to engage and add/remove water.
Hi,, What are the physical dimensions of the rectangular display? Do you think it could be flat mounted on the housing in front of the throttle arms without interference to their operation? Or how about flat on the panel to the right like where the capacity plate is located? I would relocate the capacity plate to a new spot close by. I am trading in my 2013 212X for a new 2016 242LS next Monday and want to install this new Hydrophase speed control system on the 242LS. Thanks for your review. Looks great!
Hi,, What are the physical dimensions of the rectangular display? Do you think it could be flat mounted on the housing in front of the throttle arms without interference to their operation? Or how about flat on the panel to the right like where the capacity plate is located? I would relocate the capacity plate to a new spot close by. I am trading in my 2013 212X for a new 2016 242LS next Monday and want to install this new Hydrophase speed control system on the 242LS. Thanks for your review. Looks great!
I'll be darned, I do not have the dimensions of the external unit/display, will take a note next time I'm in the boat, but I would email Justin @Ridesteady, he is fast.
If you want to flush mount above the throttles, which was my initial plan, I would look into get something like this -- Perfect Pass housing -- just ask @JetBoatPilot https://jetboatpilot.com/index.php?id_product=2446&controller=produ
That housing works very well in the new boats and looks OEM.
Hi,, What are the physical dimensions of the rectangular display? Do you think it could be flat mounted on the housing in front of the throttle arms without interference to their operation? Or how about flat on the panel to the right like where the capacity plate is located? I would relocate the capacity plate to a new spot close by. I am trading in my 2013 212X for a new 2016 242LS next Monday and want to install this new Hydrophase speed control system on the 242LS. Thanks for your review. Looks great!
Okay I found one pic that might be helpful:
So, yes the external display would fit, but the KNOB is on the right side and would not be as easily accessible. The KNOB is making that system GREAT, so you want to install the system in a knob-centric fashion, LOL.
The Tab controller pannel int he pic, directly above the throttles is exactly 3.15" width, for reference.
Pin 17 on the large spu connector should have a gray blue wire labeled anchor lt which is the lead to your tower nav light. That is pretty far away from where you have the brains mounted so you may try are find the gray green wire (i think) that runs up to the bow nav light from SPU small connecter pin 2 (bclt+) as it is likely routed right past the helm somewhere on its way to the bow. There won't be any other wires behind the helm for you to tap into for this because all of the lights are controlled by Connext through the SPU.
I didn't have the time to finish the install, but it should be an easy tap into the grey-ish wire to the nav light (in the anchor locker cover), I just have to find it in the gunnel
@swatski Ridesteady will allow me to set a target speed and with it turned on all my wife would need to do is mash the throttle forward and Ridesteady acceleration curve takes over? She is not that smooth being an inexperienced boater and the hardest part for her is launching and of course maintaining speed. At surf speeds it's very hard since the mechanical throttles like to slip back naturally in these boats anyways. Could you take a video of a launch next time you're out on the boat? It would probably help me sell this to the wife
@swatski Ridesteady will allow me to set a target speed and with it turned on all my wife would need to do is mash the throttle forward and Ridesteady acceleration curve takes over? She is not that smooth being an inexperienced boater and the hardest part for her is launching and of course maintaining speed. At surf speeds it's very hard since the mechanical throttles like to slip back naturally in these boats anyways. Could you take a video of a launch next time you're out on the boat? It would probably help me sell this to the wife
Yes, so easy a wife could do it. (No, that did not come out right...)
Let me try again.
Yes, a less experienced driver could EASILY operate the system, no doubt about it.
I found the factory settings to be quite aggressive - geared more towards a hard core skier/boarder who wants hard acceleration and the exact speed. Once I "loosened" those, the system behavior mellowed down A LOT. And that was just doing it on the fly.
I will post more video clips of the launch sequence, hopefully next weekend.
EDIT: Just to be clear - this is NOT a push button system like Yamaha Drive Control, you just have to move the throttles up. But you don't need to be skilled or experienced, the system takes over as soon as you move the throttles far enough, if you push too far - it does not matter, the system has control.
The throttle position caps the speed. So, if you go WOT, you get the FULL range with the knob. I like it a lot, as with the OEM cruise assist or cruise drive you are capped at 7,000RPM or 40mph, which is bullshit.
I connected the "dimmer" (green) wire to the Nav light +12V and it works like a charm - the Ridesteady display dims nicely when you turn the Nav lights
I got the throttle nodes back from Justin/Ridesteady - he has upgraded something inside (gold plated contacts? - for better longevity of the system) - reinstalled the nodes back and all seems fine! (This is NOT a defect, I just had one of the early units, the production units now are already upgraded)
Re: 1. I ended up just splicing into the nav light on top of the anchor locker, it is the gray wire. I tried to trace the wires in the factory loom to tap into it closer to the helm but gave up as I did not want to take unnecessary chances. It works out very well, just another easy wire run from the bow.
I also discovered that the nav lights connectors are all wiggly and barren /completely unprotected, so I ended up tightening those up and embedding them in silicone, then running the wires in a loom:
Haha ya not for you Mr. Well I hope to get his Mod sometime this year. Just need to save lil more after a MOD crazy winter! But I want this way before I even think about Ballast or even Wedge. Even tho the wedge sounds more enticing lol.
Sadly, several Saint Louis area rivers are currently experiencing devastating, historically high flood levels.
I am not sure when will it be safe for me to go back and run more tests I had planned for a while, but it could be weeks.
In the meantime, here is a cool little vid from the net showing speed adjustments with Ridesteady knob. Not a Yamaha, but will do for now!
Jetboatpilot sells a mount for PerfectPass gauge specifically designed for 2015+ Connext 240s. I'm travelign and can't get the link but should beeasy to find and should fit
I don't think the JBP mount will fit our round displays. My understanding is that it requires disassembly of the display to remove the housing, presumably to reduce the overall depth of the assembly. Also, it seems to be tailored fairly specifically to PP displays, so my recommendation would be to use the external display if a Hydrophase product is installed on a boat without a speedo that can be removed.
I finally completed the external display install - making it permanent (I had it attached with double sided tape in various places so far).
I like this particular location the most as it is the most ergonomic - I can reach the knob/make speed/rpm adjustments keeping my forearm stable on the windshield ledge (in chop).
