A quick update after a few months of use.
Ridesteady. One of the top three mods in my boat.
What I find myself doing (when just cruising around these days) is this:
- the Ridesteady set to RPM mode but "OFF"
- use the throttles to get up on plane and up to any desired cruising/coasting/whatever speed
- adjust the RPM "Set" in Ridesteady (withe RS still "OFF") with the knob to match (roughly) my current operating RPM
- turn the Ridesteady "ON" - it will take over smoothly w/no big transition
- use the knob all day long - from no wake to WOT
- if in need to make any sudden adjustments or stop - grab the throttles to override the system.
This ends up working kind of like cars' cruise control, except boats best use constant RPM for cruising.
When docking or under any conditions when I need rapid response I turn the Ridesteady OFF (at anytime).
The Ridesteady is built and designed with water skiing/wake/surfboarding enthusiasts in mind, but it works amazingly well as a regular cruise control. Just switch the GPS/RPM modes between towing and cruising. Unlike PerfectPass, RS for Yamaha twins does not have any moving parts, mechanical linkages, servo motors, etc - so there is nothing to wear out and break. It is essentially a splice-in fly-by-wire system that takes over at the APS modules overriding the mechanical throttles (with all the safety stops built-in).
I use the OEM "cruise assist"... almost never.
Matching the RPM across the whole RPM spectrum in twin engine boats is a difficult problem as the pumps are loading unevenly between the two sides. To make it worse, Yamaha no longer equips the new boats with impellers that are differentially pitched for each side (which they used to do to alleviate this issue).
The only way to really synch the twin engines across the RPM range is electronic. Given E-series fly-by-wire throttles are not retrofitable in non-E series, the only option (
for non-E-series) right now is the Hydrophase/Ridesteady system.
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