Question about how AR 195 normally sounds

[coloradotom]

I recently bought a 2022 ar195 with only 40 hours. This thing was immaculate without any scratch - just perfectly maintained. It drives fast, starts well, but there is something odd about the way the engine sounds on sharp corners.

I used to drive a seadoo jet boat, but it was years ago. It could be air I guess, but now I’m worried there’s some oddity I should get checked out. What would an impeller problem display as - only on turns? Does anyone have a video of starting at different speeds and turning under throttle?

 

[anmut]

If it sounds like it's over revving in the corners you're probably experiencing cavitation. There's a lot of factors to eliminating cavitation slip, some can be mitigated, some can't depending on how you use the boat.

Mechanical things to fix:
- Look for any missing sealant in the pump tunnel and reseal.
- Check your impeller blades for signs of cavitation burn (you'll see minor metal discolor and/or disfigurement near the edges).
- Make sure your engine oil isn't overfilled so you're getting maximum rpm
- Stepping out on a limb here by looking at your username that you're at a high elevation. Elevation kills performance - consider buying an impeller pitched for you boating area.
- Check your reverse gate and steering cable to ensure they can turn the full radius.
- Check your throttle cable in the engine bay to ensure it's going to max

Boat usage things to consider:
- Your single pump boat has less guts than your previous dual pump boat (per your profile), so you'll have to use more throttle control going into turns to keep the boat moving through the turn. Instead of using all throttle and then turning, try reducing the speed of going into the turn and waiting for the apex to apply throttle again to reduce cavitation and increase overall turn speed.
- Weighing the boat is everything on a single pump, 19' boat. If you're pulling a tube, consider setting up your passengers first to correctly optimize how the boat will sit in the water. Like, don't have all your passengers in the bow...

 

[coloradotom]

If it sounds like it's over revving in the corners you're probably experiencing cavitation. There's a lot of factors to eliminating cavitation slip, some can be mitigated, some can't depending on how you use the boat.

Mechanical things to fix:
- Look for any missing sealant in the pump tunnel and reseal.
- Check your impeller blades for signs of cavitation burn (you'll see minor metal discolor and/or disfigurement near the edges).
- Make sure your engine oil isn't overfilled so you're getting maximum rpm
- Stepping out on a limb here by looking at your username that you're at a high elevation. Elevation kills performance - consider buying an impeller pitched for you boating area.
- Check your reverse gate and steering cable to ensure they can turn the full radius.
- Check your throttle cable in the engine bay to ensure it's going to max

Boat usage things to consider:
- Your single pump boat has less guts than your previous dual pump boat (per your profile), so you'll have to use more throttle control going into turns to keep the boat moving through the turn. Instead of using all throttle and then turning, try reducing the speed of going into the turn and waiting for the apex to apply throttle again to reduce cavitation and increase overall turn speed.
- Weighing the boat is everything on a single pump, 19' boat. If you're pulling a tube, consider setting up your passengers first to correctly optimize how the boat will sit in the water. Like, don't have all your passengers in the bow...

Thanks for outlining all this. The simplist explanation is my concern is possibly just that this boat is different from the jet boat I grew up with. My old seadoo was a 180 I think, so fairly small and it drove really like a Jetski. If I started from a stop, with the wheel fully turned, it could handle that kind of thing. This new one has power, I am at around 5500 but that doesn’t seem to cause issues - was just driving nothing towed yet), but it’s more the sounds at various angles like I’m putting too much pressure on it, even though I might just be doing a faster turn or starting slowly. I checked the wear and impeller this morning and they look pretty perfect. I did very a very very small clump of grass in a crack just within the underside grates, but it seems unlikely to be the issue . It drives fine when fast, so it may just be that I have to be more gentle with it than I remember being. Keep in mind here, I’m not being wild, but just some faster turns like if someone drives from a ski and I wanted to turn quickly to get back to them - a lot of pressure sound is the not way to describe it. If I slow slightly it’s fine

 

[coloradotom]

S

Thanks for outlining all this. The simplist explanation is my concern is possibly just that this boat is different from the jet boat I grew up with. My old seadoo was a 180 I think, so fairly small and it drove really like a Jetski. If I started from a stop, with the wheel fully turned, it could handle that kind of thing. This new one has power, I am at around 5500 but that doesn’t seem to cause issues - was just driving nothing towed yet), but it’s more the sounds at various angles like I’m putting too much pressure on it, even though I might just be doing a faster turn or starting slowly. I checked the wear and impeller this morning and they look pretty perfect. I did very a very very small clump of grass in a crack just within the underside grates, but it seems unlikely to be the issue . It drives fine when fast, so it may just be that I have to be more gentle with it than I remember being. Keep in mind here, I’m not being wild, but just some faster turns like if someone drives from a ski and I wanted to turn quickly to get back to them - a lot of pressure sound is the not way to describe it. If I slow slightly it’s fine

Sorry, one more thing, do you happen to know if it would be possible to “shorten” neutral? It seems like it’s multiple inches across and then forward and reverse don’t actually produce power for another inch or so, which makes kind of walking it to a dock more complicated and overall slower. I’ll admit these are some pickier requests/hopes but I’m trying to figure it all out.

 

[anmut]

There's a significant difference in the old jet boats and the new ones - basically the hulls on the new one are deeper V's for better low speed tracking and wave handling. Your old seadoo could probably spin out, right? Because hull was pretty flat. Yamaha went in the other direction - taking a standard open bow hull design and adding jet pumps.

RE the seaweed - it sounds weird but anything that might be misdirecting water flow in the pump can lead to cavitation. You may want to pull your pump (pretty easy to do if you're mildly mechanical) and inspect them out of the boat.

RE the shortening the throw from N to D, not a good way to do it, as your bucket in the back is mechanically connected to your shift lever. To put the boat in fake neutral, while the motor is still turning the impeller, it needs to place the bucket in a very specific spot. If you adjusted to have your shift lever to have a shorter throw, you'd see forward creep while in the N detent - could be a disaster when starting the boat in a tight spot.

If you need more power when docking, use the No Wake Mode to add 1 - 3 levels of power between R/N/F, very handy when in windy or current situations.

What's your elevation?

 

[coloradotom]

There's a significant difference in the old jet boats and the new ones - basically the hulls on the new one are deeper V's for better low speed tracking and wave handling. Your old seadoo could probably spin out, right? Because hull was pretty flat. Yamaha went in the other direction - taking a standard open bow hull design and adding jet pumps.

RE the seaweed - it sounds weird but anything that might be misdirecting water flow in the pump can lead to cavitation. You may want to pull your pump (pretty easy to do if you're mildly mechanical) and inspect them out of the boat.

RE the shortening the throw from N to D, not a good way to do it, as your bucket in the back is mechanically connected to your shift lever. To put the boat in fake neutral, while the motor is still turning the impeller, it needs to place the bucket in a very specific spot. If you adjusted to have your shift lever to have a shorter throw, you'd see forward creep while in the N detent - could be a disaster when starting the boat in a tight spot.

If you need more power when docking, use the No Wake Mode to add 1 - 3 levels of power between R/N/F, very handy when in windy or current situations.

What's your elevation?

This is great info and the hull definitely makes sense now. I get why they did it, but man I had some good control on my old boat - same with forward and reverse. I’m at 5500. So you’re saying either way the no wake mode, I can do forward OR reverse with just that switch - because this sounds awesome if true.

You’re a good guy to know. Thanks for all this.

 

[anmut]

Yes, no wake mode will bump up RPM and you can work the direction without losing thrust.

Also at 5500 feet I’d SERIOUSLY consider getting a repitched impeller. You lose 3% of your horsepower for every 1000 feet of elevation.

 

[tdonoughue]

You’re a good guy to know.

I think we will keep him. (rocks, doesn't he?)

He gave you all the good stuff. I will only also offer: how far the jet turns is also a factor. Physics-wise, because turning the jet pushes part of the jet laterally, that means part of the thrust that was 100% going into forward propulsion is now going less there because some is turning the boat. So if your prior boat put 10% thrust to the turn, 90% was left to push the boat forward. If your current boat is 20%, that is going to feel like significantly less, and (here is the rub) it will sound like the engine is screaming and the boat is not going as fast as you are used to.

So that may be part of it as well. I am always still surprised on how a hard turn on my boat will sap the forward speed...

 

[coloradotom]

Yes, no wake mode will bump up RPM and you can work the direction without losing thrust.

Also at 5500 feet I’d SERIOUSLY consider getting a repitched impeller. You lose 3% of your horsepower for every 1000 feet of elevation.

This is pretty cool - I really hadn’t even heard of the no wake mode until the test drive. My main focus had been on the engine and reliability. And I’ll check out the repitched option.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

This is pretty cool - I really hadn’t even heard of the no wake mode until the test drive. My main focus had been on the engine and reliability. And I’ll check out the repitched option.

Before you look at re pitching.. what is your max rpms? If you bought the boat up there theres a good chance it has been repitched already… at 5500’ above mean sea level rpm without the re pitch there will be a significant reduction in max rpms.

And if you are going to look at impellers, the twin screw impellers are a great choice it sounds like.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

This is pretty cool - I really hadn’t even heard of the no wake mode until the test drive. My main focus had been on the engine and reliability. And I’ll check out the repitched option.

Read your owners manual..

It specifically talks about the no wake mode and the TDE position of the throttle which is the first detent as you push the throttle forward, in this position the reversing bucket is only partially open and directs thrust back and down to the sides. This was a design change made by Yamaha to increase low speed maneuverability. No Wake at Level 3 with the throttle in TDE makes directional changes with the steering wheel brisk.

Further, the No Wake button becomes the Cruise Assist at rpms above 3500 and has eight steps down and eight steps up from your set point.. so If you set your throttle at say 6000 rpm, you can use the Cruise assist to take the engine down to below 5000 rpm and up to above 7000 rpm. This is really handy when the water is rough, and you want to make small or even larger rpm changes without touching the main throttle, and of course the main throttle over rides the cruise assist, and once you pull the throttles down enough to get below 3500 the cruise assist drops out. I use this most of the time when I’m cruising around it works great.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Yes, no wake mode will bump up RPM and you can work the direction without losing thrust.

Also at 5500 feet I’d SERIOUSLY consider getting a repitched impeller. You lose 3% of your horsepower for every 1000 feet of elevation.

True, but the 3% reduction is with standard atmospheric conditions which is rare and is a great rule of thumb on normally aspirated engines, once you factor in temp, barometric pressure and dew point 5500’ can easily become close to 10,000’ in density altitude.. thats what I deal with on a daily basis where I’m at.