Replacing Bearings, Wear ring and Axle Temps for 2014 Shorelander

[Markk]

I had posted this on the "other site" a few years ago. Thought it might be helpful to others if I copied it over to here.

Finding all the correct parts and figuring out our ShoreLandr's bearing assembly was more complicated than expected. I had packed trailer bearings before, but this one had some new tricks. Details below for anyone planning to do this. I spoke to ShoreLandr directly for additional detailed support.

Shopping list:
1-1/16" Bearing L-44649 (Tractor Supply has 502T Kit for $19.99)
1-3/8" Bearing L-68149
1.719" Rear Grease Seal (Found at Local trailer supply for $2.77ea, replace every time you re-pack)
**Spindle Wear Ring (Hardest part to find. Get from Shorelandr or Marine Supplier, no local auto parts or bearing supply knew what I was talking about. McGoy Propeller in Lewisville, TX had parts)
Spare Cotter Pins (1/8" x 1.5",2" from O'Reilly worked for me)
Marine Grease tub and gun

Tools Needed:
Refer to photo below. Notable tools listed here.
- Find 6" long 3/8" hex socket with swivel type tip. This is crucial for brake removal.

Temperature Readings after re-pack:
Front Axle: 118 at edge of wheel, 118 at hub
Rear Axle: 121 at Edge of wheel, 135 at hub, 166 on brake rotor

Process:
1. Jack up and remove wheel
2. Remove brake caliper. Start with standard 3/8" hex wrench. You'll need to hit wrench with dead blow hammer to break loose. These bolts are locktite-ed on. Once broken you can use socket-hex wrench to remove. Prepare to be frustrated at this step.
3. Use dead blow hammer to knock bearing buddy off while spinning hub.
4. Remove cotter pin, castle nut, washer and outer bearing. Wipe away grease as available.
5. Re-install washer and castle nut temporarily. Pull hub off catching washer with rear bearing. Rotate and pull several times. This will dis-lodge rear seal from hub. Remove real seal and rear bearing. Inspect rear grease seal for spring health. Inspect rear of hub for evidence of grease leaking past seal. There will be grease on rear of hub, and inside of wheel if seals were compromised. All (4) of mine were "sprung" and crinkled from being out of place.
6. Wipe all grease on rags/towels. Inspect spindle wear ring at base of spindle. Verify it is "glued" in place. If hub has reached high temperature the red locktite will have let go or wear ring will be split. All (4) of mine had come loose, one had split into two pieces. When they are "unglued" they will spin with your grease seal causing extra heat.
7. Re-glue wear sleeve with red threadlocker. Wipe excess locktite before dry. Allow to set 20 min to set.
8. Clean, inspect and re-pack bearings. Look for signs of distress, overheating etc on bearings and races. Replace if necessary. Pack bearings with new marine grease.
9. Pre-grease axle spindle and wear sleeve.
10. Install rear bearing and new grease seal in hub. Use dead blow hammer and block of wood to evenly knock new seal into hub. Install hub on axle spindle.
11. Insert front bearing, washer and castle nut.
12. Tighten castle nut to 18-20ft-lbs(spec from Shorelandr) or tighten all the way to compress, then back off until you can rock hub back and forth. Then tighten 1 cotter pin slot at a time until you can't rock hub left to right. Install Cotter Pin.
13. Install bearing buddy with dead blow hammer. Pump grease into zerk until pressure plate just starts to move outward.
14. Spin hub while looking behind hub. Verify no grease is leaking out of rear. Verify that wear sleeve is not rotating with grease seal. You'll be able to see just the silver lip of the wear sleeve.
15. Clean brake rotor with brake cleaner to remove grease from rotor and pads.
16. Re-install tire and while jacked up grab it from both sides pulling left-right. Verify the wheel will not rock left to right. [All of mine rocked before re-pack. Castle nuts could be removed by hand.]
17. Lower jack and torque lug nuts. Repeat for all hubs then take for test drive. Take temperature readings at edge of wheel, hub and brakes. Reference temperatures above.

 

[Maccam26]

Excellent write up except, I believe, your rear grease seal is incorrect @ 1.719 ID it should be part #44100130 from shorelandr that has 1.75 ID which fits precisely over the 1.749 OD of the SS spindle wear sleeve.


SHORELAND'R S.S. Spindle Wear Sleeve (3500 lb. Axles) #4410089
Be the first to review this product
Stock# 5422173
ShoreLand'r stainless steel wear sleeve for the grease seal shoulder is designed for 3500 lb. axles.
Dimensions" Inside Diameter= 1.732", Outside Diameter= 1.749"

 

[BDOne]

Thanks @Markk and @Maccam26 for the leads on the wear sleeve!

I just finished tearing down the front left hub on my new (to me) 2012 Shoreland'r. There was dried grease coating the inside of the wheel, so I figured I better see what's going on. I managed to find all of the other parts, but wasn't even sure what the wear ring was. It came out in two pieces, and was not bonded to the spindle.

 

[DRock3d]

Not to bump a dead thread but someone may come across this and get bad/unsafe info as I almost did. The spec is 18-20 INCH POUNDS, not foot pounds. 20 ft/lbs is equal to 240 in/lbs, huge difference. I've heard that trailers with staggered bearings as most of ours are should actually be 30 inch pounds but I can't find a manual to back that up.

12. Tighten castle nut to 18-20ft-lbs(spec from Shorelandr) or tighten all the way to compress, then back off until you can rock hub back and forth. Then tighten 1 cotter pin slot at a time until you can't rock hub left to right. Install Cotter Pin.


BEARING ADJUSTMENT
The wheel bearings have been adjusted at the factory. To maxi-
mize bearing life, however, we suggest that you check the bearing
adjustment periodically to the recommended 18-20”/lbs. of torque
and every time the bearings are repacked. Contact an authorized
ShoreLand’r dealer for service.

ShoreLand'r Trailer Owner's Guide | Manualzz

View online (20 pages) or download PDF (1 MB) ShoreLand'r Trailer Owner's guide • Trailer PDF manual download and more ShoreLand'r online manuals

manualzz.com

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I had posted this on the "other site" a few years ago. Thought it might be helpful to others if I copied it over to here.

Finding all the correct parts and figuring out our ShoreLandr's bearing assembly was more complicated than expected. I had packed trailer bearings before, but this one had some new tricks. Details below for anyone planning to do this. I spoke to ShoreLandr directly for additional detailed support.

Shopping list:
1-1/16" Bearing L-44649 (Tractor Supply has 502T Kit for $19.99)
1-3/8" Bearing L-68149
1.719" Rear Grease Seal (Found at Local trailer supply for $2.77ea, replace every time you re-pack)
**Spindle Wear Ring (Hardest part to find. Get from Shorelandr or Marine Supplier, no local auto parts or bearing supply knew what I was talking about. McGoy Propeller in Lewisville, TX had parts)
Spare Cotter Pins (1/8" x 1.5",2" from O'Reilly worked for me)
Marine Grease tub and gun

Tools Needed:
Refer to photo below. Notable tools listed here.
- Find 6" long 3/8" hex socket with swivel type tip. This is crucial for brake removal.

Temperature Readings after re-pack:
Front Axle: 118 at edge of wheel, 118 at hub
Rear Axle: 121 at Edge of wheel, 135 at hub, 166 on brake rotor

Process:
1. Jack up and remove wheel
2. Remove brake caliper. Start with standard 3/8" hex wrench. You'll need to hit wrench with dead blow hammer to break loose. These bolts are locktite-ed on. Once broken you can use socket-hex wrench to remove. Prepare to be frustrated at this step.
3. Use dead blow hammer to knock bearing buddy off while spinning hub.
4. Remove cotter pin, castle nut, washer and outer bearing. Wipe away grease as available.
5. Re-install washer and castle nut temporarily. Pull hub off catching washer with rear bearing. Rotate and pull several times. This will dis-lodge rear seal from hub. Remove real seal and rear bearing. Inspect rear grease seal for spring health. Inspect rear of hub for evidence of grease leaking past seal. There will be grease on rear of hub, and inside of wheel if seals were compromised. All (4) of mine were "sprung" and crinkled from being out of place.
6. Wipe all grease on rags/towels. Inspect spindle wear ring at base of spindle. Verify it is "glued" in place. If hub has reached high temperature the red locktite will have let go or wear ring will be split. All (4) of mine had come loose, one had split into two pieces. When they are "unglued" they will spin with your grease seal causing extra heat.
7. Re-glue wear sleeve with red threadlocker. Wipe excess locktite before dry. Allow to set 20 min to set.
8. Clean, inspect and re-pack bearings. Look for signs of distress, overheating etc on bearings and races. Replace if necessary. Pack bearings with new marine grease.
9. Pre-grease axle spindle and wear sleeve.
10. Install rear bearing and new grease seal in hub. Use dead blow hammer and block of wood to evenly knock new seal into hub. Install hub on axle spindle.
11. Insert front bearing, washer and castle nut.
12. Tighten castle nut to 18-20ft-lbs(spec from Shorelandr) or tighten all the way to compress, then back off until you can rock hub back and forth. Then tighten 1 cotter pin slot at a time until you can't rock hub left to right. Install Cotter Pin.
13. Install bearing buddy with dead blow hammer. Pump grease into zerk until pressure plate just starts to move outward.
14. Spin hub while looking behind hub. Verify no grease is leaking out of rear. Verify that wear sleeve is not rotating with grease seal. You'll be able to see just the silver lip of the wear sleeve.
15. Clean brake rotor with brake cleaner to remove grease from rotor and pads.
16. Re-install tire and while jacked up grab it from both sides pulling left-right. Verify the wheel will not rock left to right. [All of mine rocked before re-pack. Castle nuts could be removed by hand.]
17. Lower jack and torque lug nuts. Repeat for all hubs then take for test drive. Take temperature readings at edge of wheel, hub and brakes. Reference temperatures above.

View attachment 99937View attachment 99938View attachment 99939View attachment 99940View attachment 99941View attachment 99942View attachment 99943View attachment 99944View attachment 99945View attachment 99946

I appreciate the heat gun temp readings! After fixing my brakes I found the temp difference between front non brake and rear braking hubs sort of surprising until I thought about it some. My heat gun readings are consistent with those pictured.

 

[Cambo]

Excellent write up except, I believe, your rear grease seal is incorrect @ 1.719 ID it should be part #44100130 from shorelandr that has 1.75 ID which fits precisely over the 1.749 OD of the SS spindle wear sleeve.


SHORELAND'R S.S. Spindle Wear Sleeve (3500 lb. Axles) #4410089
Be the first to review this product
Stock# 5422173
ShoreLand'r stainless steel wear sleeve for the grease seal shoulder is designed for 3500 lb. axles.
Dimensions" Inside Diameter= 1.732", Outside Diameter= 1.749"

@Maccam26 is correct while the 1.719'' will squeeze on it was very tight. I had no water infiltration and the bearings races and wear ring looked perfect so if that held water out for 6 seasons I will use the same set up 1.732'' I.D.

1.719" Rear Grease Seal

I'm currently working on my 2018 Shorlander trailer the rotors are badly rotted from salt water use I was trying to source Stainless rotors. The calipers were replaced with stainless and are working great. There is a full kit By Dexter [HASH=9618]#K71[/HASH]-088-05 That lists a stainless rotor with zinc hub. So I reached out to dexter to see if I could get just the rotor. They referred me to Waymire so I called and spoke to Grant he seemed very knowledgeable and confident of the parts I needed and said the stainless rotor part was not available or made any more . He shipped Zinc rotors, bearing seals, and wear ring (Wear sleeve), I mentioned several times that it was a shorelander trailer but he seemed confident this is what was needed. As noted above the Wear sleeve that was sent was to small and same with the seal. The wear sleeve that was on the hub was in good shape and felt firmly attached until I took the seal that has a smaller Inside diameter and slid it on to check if it would work, it slid on but broke the wear ring loose due to being very snug.

I have the correct parts on order along with the complete dexter kit that shows and lists Stainless Rotor. The dexter kit comes with the smaller diameter seal 1.719" I.D. but I have the correct seal and sleeve on order.

7 year old rotor

 

[BlueBulls]

I recently ran my 2021 ShoreLand'r trailer 2,000 miles to the Keys and back - and while all my bearings made it I had a grease seal blow out on the way back. I went ahead and changed the bearings and raceways when I changed the blown seal, these are the parts you need, at places that are currently in stock. These are OEM parts and USA-made bearings - there are all kinds of cheaper Chinese versions, especially for the bearings, but I prefer the Timken. I hope this information saves some research for anybody trying to solve the parts puzzle and searching 'bearing replacement' on the forum.

Spindle Sleeve & Seal:

Shorelander 1-3/8" Grease Seal and Spindle Sleeve Kit - 2 Pack

Shorelander 1-3/8" Grease Seal and Spindle Sleeve Kit - 2 Pack

www.hannarv.com

Inner Bearing - Timken Set 13 (L68149/L68110)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X39TVK

Outer Bearing - Timken Set 4 (L44649/L44610)

Amazon.com

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I recently ran my 2021 ShoreLand'r trailer 2,000 miles to the Keys and back - and while all my bearings made it I had a grease seal blow out on the way back. I went ahead and changed the bearings and raceways when I changed the blown seal, these are the parts you need, at places that are currently in stock. These are OEM parts and USA-made bearings - there are all kinds of cheaper Chinese versions, especially for the bearings, but I prefer the Timken. I hope this information saves some research for anybody trying to solve the parts puzzle and searching 'bearing replacement' on the forum.

Spindle Sleeve & Seal:

Shorelander 1-3/8" Grease Seal and Spindle Sleeve Kit - 2 Pack

Shorelander 1-3/8" Grease Seal and Spindle Sleeve Kit - 2 Pack

www.hannarv.com

Inner Bearing - Timken Set 13 (L68149/L68110)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X39TVK

Outer Bearing - Timken Set 4 (L44649/L44610)

Amazon.com

How did you install the wear sleeve?

I currently have a grease leak and pretty sure it was like the last time and the grease is coming out under the wear sleeve. I had the same thing happen 3 years ago, changed seals a couple of times and that didn’t fix the leak, then I discovered the wear sleeve, replaced that and the leak stopped.

 

[BlueBulls]

How did you install the wear sleeve?

The sleeve on the blown hub pretty much came off with the hub, there was some gunk under it that may have been the factory-applied Loctite and I scraped it off when I cleaned the spindle. I dutifully put fresh Loctite on the spindle for the new sleeve, banged it on, and let it set before putting the hub back on.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The sleeve on the blown hub pretty much came off with the hub, there was some gunk under it that may have been the factory-applied Loctite and I scraped it off when I cleaned the spindle. I dutifully put fresh Loctite on the spindle for the new sleeve, banged it on, and let it set before putting the hub back on.

You had to tap the sleeve on with a hammer?
How long did you let it sit?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The only instructions I could find on the net thus far.

 

[BlueBulls]

Somewhere along the way I picked up the suggestion to use a short piece of PVC (1-1/4 I think) to 'seat' the sleeve but I was probably doing a pointless extra step. I'm not convinced all the sleeves aren't just free-wheeling on the spindles anyways - my old one definitely didn't have wear marks like the video and wasn't really attached at all. I definitely didn't wait 24 hours for the Loctite to set - more like 20 minutes. Everything seemed to be working smoothly and the temperatures on my wheel TPMS sensors didn't change from the usual on my last run to the lake.

Tearing the rest of the wheels off is on my winter maintenance list.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Right on, thanks for the explanation of how you put it together.

I made the repair to mine the other day, I’m on a road trip and am 800 miles from home, I pulled my road kit out and found that I had set my bag of wear sleeves aside to put in a better place in my road kit and like a dumb ass left them at home. A call to Hannah RV and I had a couple on the way here to WI.

I went ahead and pulled the hub and removed all of the grease which now was a light tan color and very thin, the temps were still good rolling down the road though. I put it all back together since it was going to be a few days before I got the wear sleeves and so I could launch my boat here to go to the sand bar bash with @drewkaree and @WiskyDan. When I pulled it back apart after two 10 minute dunkings water had gone under the wear sleeve and had just barely messed with the grease by the rear bearing, I was able to just wipe away the contained bit of grease.

I used the stix form of the red Loctite #268, I put enough on that it will require a heat gun to remove but such is this design, I made sure that it sealed up all the way around. I bought a hair dryer and put about 6 heat cycles on the spindle and wear sleeve and that set the Loctite enough to reassemble. Upon re assembly, when I tightened the castle nut to seat the bearings I did see some Loctite smoosh out from under the wear sleeve, pulled the hub back off to make sure none had smooshed out on the inside then re assembled and let it sit overnight before I used it for a very short tow to launch the next morning. When I do the next one I’ll just use the cleaned up hub with no seal in it to seat the wear sleeve.

And like you, redoing the other wheels is on the winter off season list of things to do. Although, I see the passenger side front is starting to fling a few bits of grease, so that one will get done after the 800 mile drive back home. The concept of the replaceable wear sleeves is a cool idea, but shorelandr’s design doesn’t lend itself to in the field repairs like the Dexter design does. I’m hoping that once I get these wear sleeves installed properly I won’t have any issues for a long time. From the factory there was barely any Loctite on the wear sleeves, I think over time this allowed the sleeves to start to spin and allowed water to get under the sleeve and contaminate the grease.

Thanks again for the information you provided! It was a big help!