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SHOUT OUT to the best upgrade ever to my trailer - Ramp-N-Clamp

scokill

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So I used the rampnclamp the first time yesterday. The ramp that I normally use had a different angle now that the lake is up at this level for the first time in 2 years, so I had to put deeper than than usual, but it worked fine. I'll probably put in just a little bit deeper to get to the clamp a little easier.
 

scokill

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So two different outings at two different ramps with the rampnclamp and we cant get to the clamp point easily. W've tried deeper but then you don't engage bunks for self centering and we make it to the polyurethane and the boat just won't slid up. I'm thinking furniture polish on the bunks and wax the poly, but we've never had a problem reaching the top of the roller before. Any thoughts or suggestions?
 

CAM212SS

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@scokill silicone worked great for me. Makes it much easier to power up to the ramp-n-clamp. I know some people say never power load because of erosion, but my ramp is concrete for about 100' and i have no issues there. Not sure about your situation, but the silicone will definitely help slide her up
 

veedubtek

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We sprayed liquid rollers on the bunks a few weeks ago, can't keep the dam boat on it now! I've got to hold the power on until someone can hook it. Had the exact same issue as you beforehand @scokill .
 

sysinu

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I was always really unsure about the ramp-n-clamp because of this reason. I don't self-load my boat (ever) so it's not a huge selling point for me, but I think the next time the boat's not on the bunks, I'm going to blast it with one of these things. I really like to keep my fenders just barely under the water, which means the front end of the bunks are out of the water. Because of this, I winch in and end up with a bit of extra effort (and backing the trailer further in) that could probably be avoided with a little lubrication.
 

jarozi

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In case this helps someone else, I went to order one of these for a Shoreland'r trailer (Model 503SH) and the website shows out of stock. I emailed Joe and he says they should be in stock late next week (May 28-29ish).
 

scokill

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We sprayed liquid rollers on the bunks a few weeks ago, can't keep the dam boat on it now! I've got to hold the power on until someone can hook it. Had the exact same issue as you beforehand @scokill .
I installed these last week and really like themhttp://www.jmsonline.net/bunk-slicks-3x16-black-10-pk.htm?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvuuqBRDG95yR6tmfg9oBEiQAjE3RQPGSNzjHsWnZwYzm75oV968r9PFb54ZpvOT4UmfYbmwaAlqJ8P8HAQ . Will reduce the bunkrash too. With fenders just under water I can make it to the ramp n clam and it does its thing.
 

Gym

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I have to launch/retrieve myself on several occasions. It can be a pain in the ocean with wind & tide activity so the ramp-n-clamp seems like it may be a solution. I'd be interested in hearing from you guys that have used it for a season or more especially guys like @scokill who have had some issues with it. The other issue is I have an MFI trailer with UBBs rather than carpeted bunks so am wondering if my slick bunk boards may pose a problem. Any input would be appreciated.
 

jarozi

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The 503SH for Shorelandr's is back in stock I went ahead and ordered one. Can someone give me any tips on install of the new bow hook? What will I need to do the install as far as sealant or any unusual tools? Thanks!
 

Ramp-N-Clamp

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Hello,

Obviously there is a fitment issue with the Yamaha boats that have ridges in the hull in front of the bow eye.
(2010-2014 242?). The ridges are grabbing the cover while sliding off the trailer. This boat along with Shorelandr trailers seem to make/let the latch over rotate downward. If you have this type of hull please stop using the Ramp-N-Clamp. We have over 1800 of these in use over the last 24 months and this is the only boat hull that has done this.

We can develop a cover with a longer and rounded back side extension so that the ridges can't grab it. Until then I will gladly give a full refund to any Yamaha owners that have this type of hull.

Thank you,
Joe
 
Last edited:

Greg M

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Joe, please note in my other thread, I clearly make sure everyone understands I do NOT blame you or your product in the slightest for my issue! I DO think your clamp is a DAMN GOOD product! Just has an issue with that specific bow shape. Otherwise, I honestly think you make a fantastic, safe, and quality product!
 

Ramp-N-Clamp

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Greg,

You have been very fair in your description of the problem, I respect that immensely. I truly just want no one else to have this happen. I am confident it is a combination of the 242 and Shorelandr. The Shorelandr is rounded were the the roller/latch mounts. Shorelandr also has a lot of adjustment for the roller uprights. They can point up towards the boat or be almost horizontal. When horizontal they do not stop the latch from rotating downward. The step hull on the 242 adds to the problem.

We are going to roll and cover the back side urethane and do some testing. We literally have 1000's of different boat to trailer combos working and the 242 is the only one to have ever done this.

Thanks again for your fairness.
 

Greg M

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Thinking about this, I honestly think these are a few things to consider:

  1. The "step" on the bow of a 242 hull is maybe 11" from eye and the "step" protrudes about an inch. Problem is...
  2. All the 242's are known to ride bow low at idle in the water, even if you engage the trailer bunks, its still bow low until its almost to the winch (the step often barely clears old roller, hit RnC)
  3. The is a ridge about 2"above the eye and 3" below the step. This ridge causes the RnC to sit "weirdly"
  4. There is power loading (which we all see the YouTube vids of lol) and then there is power loading. To get the bow up, you would have to have the trailer very shallow, engage it, then back the trailer down while using thrust to keep the boat engaged on the bunks. even then on a steep ramp, the attitude of the trailer wont help in getting the bow "step" up.
  5. I honestly believe the trailer is more of an issue to a degree than the bow shape or attitude of the boat in the water. If there was a lifting roller between the winch and the bunks this might help BUT I wouldn't want it to be high load bearing....as in once the hull is fully on the bunks the bow shouldn't be on the roller. Have seen a lot of old trailers that had these and that much pressure on that small of a contact area accelerates wear at a point of the hull that could be a huge problem.
 

CAM212SS

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i spray silicone on the bunks and on the RNC everytime to help with the friction... ever since i started doing that, the boat slides much easier and engages smoother. i power load every time on a pretty steep ramp
 

scokill

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Just resurrecting this thread as we went out 2 times this weekend I was thinking how easy my wife and I get the boat in and out. I remember the days of needing to get in the water or have my son winch the boat up. I know it may not work with some of the newer models but it's one of the best mods we've added.
 

Mando

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I was just on their website and try to add the universal model for the shorelander to my cart but it's not allowing me. Maybe that's a sign I shouldn't get it
 
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