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Not really, Just spliced in a 3amp fuse and ran wire to each speaker But the 45KM604WL's are only a blue led and only require a 12V and GRD. If you go with something that is a multi-color or color changing LED, then I believe you will need a controller. You could probably still run it off the courtesy light switch, but you'd have to wire the controller in line. I just wanted blue, so it made my install easy
That’s what I was trying to say, but you said it better. I just wanted to point out that a direct wire solution will not give you the color changing capabilities without a controller
The 280/4 has plenty of power and reserve for dynamic power, well over 50w/ch. If you're going to do mid-cabins for a total of 8 speakers, I would suggest you go with a pair of 280/4 and drive each speaker directly, and leave the tweeters wired to the head unit as it doesn't need much power. The advantage of using two amps allows each channel to drive to full power with reserve headroom and greater damping factor at 4 ohms. This helps to contribute to better mid-bass punch.
This also means you don't need to wire in fuses or breakers as the 280/4 has inline fuses, which saves you money, time and hassle. The 500/4 and most other similar amps require you to wire in a 50 amp fuse.
Not really, Just spliced in a 3amp fuse and ran wire to each speaker But the 45KM604WL's are only a blue led and only require a 12V and GRD. If you go with something that is a multi-color or color changing LED, then I believe you will need a controller. You could probably still run it off the courtesy light switch, but you'd have to wire the controller in line. I just wanted blue, so it made my install easy
The 45KM604WL's were blue only. I think they have others that were other colors. On a multicolored pair, you can usually set a constant color of red/blue/green based on the wires you connect. The color is solid, it does not flash with bass.
Regarding your question about wattage. My last boat had 6 JL M3 6.5s. I was running the same amplifier on them as I'm running now. A Wet Sounds sd-6. It's rated at 185 watts per channel! It's all in the setup and tuning. Over the years, I have seen more speakers blown because of too little power and driving them into distortion, then too much power.
So if I am only looking to do solid blue, I don't need to get a controller. I'm sorry if I'm being slightly slow on the upload. I have never run audio or leds before. I am looking to do what @toddaltpeter was saying about going to courtesy switch
So being completely new, If i replace my current speakers I can use the current speaker wires for the speakers I would only need to run a ground to 12v
I know its like talking to a 5 year old .....
Sorry I mispoke. The manual outlines how to hook it up. Black wire is 12v+, the color you want is grounded. You can ground 1,2, or 3 of wires to create a color.
Sorry I mispoke. The manual outlines how to hook it up. Black wire is 12v+, the color you want is grounded. You can ground 1,2, or 3 of wires to create a color.
The amp I put in is only 50W per channel, so I reused the existing speaker wire. That said, if I was doing it again, I would use the wire recommended above or something like it. That way if you want to go big on an amp in the future, you are ready. It'll be the same degree of difficulty to pull either of them. It's just 3x more expensive. But hey, anything under $250 is a miscellaneous expense in the boating world anyway and you know you'll eventually want more power. It's a disease that every person on this forum is afflicted with!
To be clean on the install you could use something like this
Eowpower 6Pcs 600V 25A Dual Row 8 Position Screw Terminal Strip and 6Pcs 400V 25A 8 Position Black/Red Pre Insulated Terminal Barrier Strip: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
1. Cut the Courtesy light output wire and attach to screw position 1
2. Attach the other half of cut wire to screw position 2
3 attach led's to screws 3,4,5,6
4 attach jumper bar to other side
Do the same for the ground wires. These are 8 connection. you could probably find a 6. I didn't look very hard.
Following. I’m replicating if you can keep the budget to $1k. The challenge I’m finding is in the head unit and/or amp. (I need to replace everything.)
If I get a good HU, it probably won’t drive more than four speakers well. If I get a good amp, I still gotta drop $300 for any HU worth getting, but I’m not using its amp.
I feel like getting no HU and plugging a Bluetooth dongle directly into the amp. (I’m sure there is a reason to why that doesn’t work, or isn’t a good idea. )
I'm a huge fan of JL I run their M6 series, this is the second boat that I am doing this set up on. Just finished installing my 7.7 speakers today. Looking sharp unfortunately its not a $1000 budget though, but if you piece it together over time it would be well worth it. I am kind of an audio head though and that guy out at the sand bar.
The 280/4 has plenty of power and reserve for dynamic power, well over 50w/ch. If you're going to do mid-cabins for a total of 8 speakers, I would suggest you go with a pair of 280/4 and drive each speaker directly, and leave the tweeters wired to the head unit as it doesn't need much power. The advantage of using two amps allows each channel to drive to full power with reserve headroom and greater damping factor at 4 ohms. This helps to contribute to better mid-bass punch.
This also means you don't need to wire in fuses or breakers as the 280/4 has inline fuses, which saves you money, time and hassle. The 500/4 and most other similar amps require you to wire in a 50 amp fuse.
ok, I think I've decided on this route. The twin 280/4s with each speaker on it's own channel. Now I just need to decide on speakers. Either buy 2 polks and add those mid cabin, or buy 4 kickers and replace the current cabin speakers. Basically making the cabin a Kicker zone and the bow and stern a polk zone. Or, simply buy 2 JL 650s for the new mid cabin speakers, and call it a day.
