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Frankly, I don't see anything passive aggressive in @jcyamaharider's remarks, he is just telling it like it is - he is about as much a strait shooter and an upstanding guy as you can get. I also don't think we have anyone here who is more accomplished in the field of jet boat wake surfing mods.
I appreciate your very creative contributions and sharing your experience here, which is awesome, I just hope we can do without unnecessary personal remarks. But that's just me.
HA! not even a jet owner, but I imagined something just like that in my head, but not for surfing. A longer "flap" to knock down the spray for tubing kids. Even eyeballed the rubber anti-fatigue mats we have at work LOL
the ONLY time I ever spoke in detail to a jet owner in person, that was one of their complaints.....kids get sprayed in the face.
HA! not even a jet owner, but I imagined something just like that in my head, but not for surfing. A longer "flap" to knock down the spray for tubing kids. Even eyeballed the rubber anti-fatigue mats we have at work LOL
the ONLY time I ever spoke in detail to a jet owner in pers
Yes, I see that now - you don't have that boat listed much at all! which is kind of shocking - for generating such a great wave.
When you are fully ballasted (and just sitting there) is your swim platform under water at all?
Any issues getting out of the hole with (almost 3,000lbs?) of ballast? Your pumps must be in top notch shape, with no cavitation.
I think your ballast may be centered further forward that most here do, including myself - which is very interesting.
In my 240 (with well sealed pumps, new impellers, and L13 cones) I start struggling to get out of the hole with anything approaching or exceeding 3,000lbs of ballast (which makes me wonder if your distribution is different - more forward). I can still pop up but only by deploying my trim tabs (and once I'm up - I retract those).
I believe he said no ballast on swim deck like most of us do! I know if I have 2500lb of ballast and a a fairly full boat I have issues surfing with out cavitation
The water is just barley coming over the edge of the swim decking the surf side. When I first started trying to make the boat surf. I had bags on the back seat surf side and across the back row and on the swim platform. It was almost impossible to get up and going. Didn’t have any non surf side weight. I have some film of the launch I’ll get ya. In the pic the only thing you can’t see is the 750 bag under the surf side seat.
I really like the length of the wake. I think ours is maybe a little cleaner and as tall. 242xe with Gatlin wedge but not as long. Would like to get the length for more room for speed and recovering.
I know we have a different hull so that will play apart
I know that photography can always play optical tricks and things never look the same in reality, but even considering potential camera lens distortions you appear to be generating a different wave that what I have seen behind a Yamaha so far... It is freaking long and flat-ish in a good way, I think.
No doubt the ballast distribution has a lot to do with that, further indicated by your smooth and easy looking launch w/the amount of ballast. Having that much ballast centered further aft (swim deck) makes starts way harder.
Damn. You have me back to the drawing board, that's for sure.
IDK, maybe you already hit a home run???
As in - it maybe hard to improve on your flap. Any longer and it would drag on the ground not to mention - the weight and storage (if it were longer and/or wider). And then - the bow-out/curved shape gives it the extra reach (chord) and probably helps that bulging/bending effect in the middle - very much like the ASP (aerial surf platform or WhaleTail) feature. That certainly looks like an evolution of Chaparral's ASP.
Also - Yamaha's new SurfPoint is all about centering the jet wash, and I'm thinking that that curved flap of yours is "funneling" water into the center while beating some of the jet whitewash. And then you just add a bit of a list - and voilà!
Hey thanks, I had a ton of data and ideas to start with from y’alls prior work. Yea I was thinking about tweeking some things. Then shooting these last vids I thought... if it ain’t broke...
I’m ready to surf it a few more timesand go from there. Thrilled with the results. Never imagined that it would be so good. Hope it helps others dial in the wave they dream of cause Wakesurfing ropeless with good push is a blast!!
@Dulaneyjared Damn the length you get and the curl just looks great!!
So you put equal ballast each side on top of the seats and then list surf side by the 750 lb under the top bag?
Love the vids and please keep them coming
Thanks, yes 750 extra on the surf side with 400 in the floor in front of engine hatch. I hope to get to go out again soon and shoot some looks from the rider perspective!
The flap is pretty simple. Here are some pics and explanation:
- Flap is 3/4" rubber horse stall mat, cut to 14"x60" with tapered edges. 4'x6' mat is around $60 at Murdochs or local feed/equestrian store, and easy to cut with a box-cutter.
- Flap is attached to 1"x1"x1/8" aluminum square tubing using #10 screws and lock-nuts. Instead of washers, I used 3/4" aluminum angle as backing for the nuts. (pic shows screws sticking out, but are now filed flush with nuts)
- Boat mount is a 6" length 2"x2"x1/8" aluminum square tubing. Hacked a slot in the top so it could slip over the tie-down eye. Attached cutting board material to top of aluminum with double-sided tape to prevent scratching boat ($2 at Family Dollar).
- Carefully measured distance to inside edge of tie-down eye, and drilled hole at that distance in the 2" square tubing.
- Welded 1-1/4"x1-1/4"x1/16" aluminum square tubing to the 2" square tubing ($46 at local welding shop)
- Slipped 2" square tubing over tie-down eye, secured with 5/16" bolt. A 5/16" hitch pin would work well if you want to easily remove the whole assembly.
- Installed flap by inserting 1" tube into one of the 1-1/4" tubes, then fed it back into the second 1-1/4" tube. Centered the flap on the mounts and drilled 1/4" holes thru the tubes on both sides. Secure with 1/4" hitch pin.
Fits nicely in the ski locker, so we use it when wakeboarding/surfing then remove it when done riding.
I also attached a couple pictures of a wood prototype that worked awesome and would be a very easy DIY project. Attach horse stall mat to 2x4, attach 2" spacers on top of the 2x4 near location of the tie-down eyes, then u-bolt around the tie-down eyes thru the 2x4. Tightening u-bolts pulls 2" spacers against the boat, so rock-solid installation. Note: Install this with the mat facing front of the boat to prevent bending the wood screws.
All great information! I am following and will likely try the Surf Flap on my 2016, 212x. I just added an additional ballast system to the stock 700 (350 port/starboard) ballast under the back seats. I am adding a tri-valve diverter to allow filling to one side. In addition, I am adding 800 lbs in the locker and another 800 lbs for the rear surf side seat. If my math serves me right I will be 1950 lbs of ballast for surf side. Obviously, I will adjust for people in the boat but have two kids; 80, and 55 lbs along with a 130 lb wife. So, not much weight between us, lol.
Hey guys, haven't had much to add here for awhile, but a couple minor updates:
1) @swatski (per earlier question) We do now in fact put our lead in the wet storage compartments when surfing. This moved the center-of-gravity forward just a bit, but very minor effect on the wave, and definitely nice having everything put away and clean.
2) I have 800# bags plumbed in under both of my back seats. Initially I only filled the surf side bag, but now we more often than not fill BOTH bags and then just move the lead back and forth to surf side. This works especially well if we have a couple more people with us to sit surf-side, but even when it is just two of us the wave is solid.
Wishing eveyone an AWESOME July 4th out on the water, be safe out there amongst the holiday chaos.
@KXCam22 Here is a couple of pictures of mine. If I was to build it again, I think i would just make it one piece as no one ever uses the swim ladder to board the boat because it's so easy to get back on the boat when its listed. I used 1/2" marine board for the wedge and 1" marine board for the crossbar and the ladder bracket. Everything is held together with a heavy gauge aluminium piano hing and 1/4' stainless steel bolts. I was a little concerned with it being all plastic at first but after two years I've had no issues so far.
@KXCam22 Here is a couple of pictures of mine. If I was to build it again, I think i would just make it one piece as no one ever uses the swim ladder to board the boat because it's so easy to get back on the boat when its listed. I used 1/2" marine board for the wedge and 1" marine board for the crossbar and the ladder bracket. Everything is held together with a heavy gauge aluminium piano hing and 1/4' stainless steel bolts. I was a little concerned with it being all plastic at first but after two years I've had no issues so far.