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@swatski all I'm trying to do is knock down the jetwash. That fender is 8.5" in diameter which means it covers the top quarter to third of the jet nozzle.
I tried attaching it with rope but that was too loose and stretchy, but it still looked like it had an affect on the wake. Now I've attached it with hardware.
Hoping to get out in the next couple days to see how it looks.
So not the best video to gauge the actual wake, we were going 13mph with someone knee boarding. I also didn't have all of my ballast filled as the boat was full of teenage boys that don't weigh much and a couple of good sized adults. But I think that the video does show that the right side of the wake, where the bumper is attached (looking from the boat), is much cleaner than the left side. I think I like this enough to keep using it and do some additional testing with full ballast. As a side note, it rides completely out of the water when the boat is going faster than wake surf speed so it isn't creating additional drag.
@geohil, interesting, yes I think that could work. For my cross-member I used 3/4" aluminum tubing with 1/8" wall thickness, so would be a simple task to just cut the entire thing in half and use a solid 1/2" square bar to reconnect them, maybe some small screws as stops so the 1/2" bar does not slide down the tubing. If you used channel, then I would first try using another piece of larger channel to tie the two halves together with bolts or pins; aluminum shapes come in precise dimensions so next larger channel would like fit snugly over your existing channel. The cross-member definitely bends when surfing, and the rubber flap itself contributes a bunch to the overall rigidity, so your piano hinge idea should maintain the overall effectiveness. BTW, when I remove the flap it is just a long flat piece of rubber with metal tube at the top, fits very nicely and very easily in my ski locker right along with our surfboards (takes up very little space in there), the 21X probably has a smaller ski locker but seems it should not be an issue fitting in there once your ballast is drained.
So I spent all of Saturday and Sunday pulling wake-surfers, tubers, and wake boarders with the wake flap installed. When I pulled my boat out last night I noticed I bent the crap out of my .125 wall aluminum square tube the flap was attached to. Have you had any issues with a torsional bend in yours? I see above yours flexes, but mine is a permanent bend that probably has some structural weakness now. I can't remember my measurements but I think my cleat to cleat measurement was wider than yours. Unless you have other ideas I think I'm going to switch to galvanized.
On the positive with 6 adults, and 800 lbs external bag, stock ballast, and the flap we had a beautiful monster wave!
I built mine with stainless, paid for it in drill bits and broken ego lol, but it's held up totally well including stints at 40+mph when my friends went cruising...
Well... I got bored, and seeing that I like to tinker -- I did more and more research on the wake flap. It is common on tige boats that install fresh air exhaust -- my understanding is the aftermarket exhaust cause turbulence in the wake. I was inspired by @COtoFLsurf prototype. 2x4 and mat. He stated that he really only did 1 size and it worked. I wanted to make a prototype that could be altered easily and produce a little trial and error. I have not tried anything on the boat it on the water yet, but Some mods I made to his concept -- I am using hooks with wing nuts instead of the u bolts. I hope it will make the mounting and removal easier. I had some extra sharktip (like seadeck) so I put that on the spacers. . I also made the spacers 3" instead of 2 to make the hook dimensions work.
I figured I have a 4x6 Piece of rubber -- I can try 4 or 5 versions until I find one I like. And because I am using the 2x4 -- I should be able to make quick changes to different mat sizes.
Because the widest I will go is 60", I took the first swatch from the end (48"x12") I have it offset to the side ( where we are surfing for now). So it is shorter (length and width) than Others who tried this. Worth a shot. I will report back on Sunday when we get the boat loaded.
I built it and it did not fit! The gap between the board and the reverse gates are tight. So I spent the day on the lake without the flap. When i got Home and dropped everyone off, I moved the mounting hooks and it slipped on nicely. Here is a photo with 800lbs on the deck (need more weight up inside). One has the flap and one does not. Can you tell? It will be intersting to try again when I get more weight, or more people.
As I mentioned on the FB page the wave looks killer! Great job with your curved design as it seems to work great! Now I'm just waiting for one of you to install an actuator so the flap can be deployed and stowed
He posted some videos and a few pics once others on the jetboaters FB group started asking questions about the custom flap. A lot of the FB members seem to not visit the forums for some reason so they didn't know of the flap ideas y'all have been trying.
As I mentioned on the FB page the wave looks killer! Great job with your curved design as it seems to work great! Now I'm just waiting for one of you to install an actuator so the flap can be deployed and stowed
As I mentioned on the FB page the wave looks killer! Great job with your curved design as it seems to work great! Now I'm just waiting for one of you to install an actuator so the flap can be deployed and stowed
He posted some videos and a few pics once others on the jetboaters FB group started asking questions about the custom flap. A lot of the FB members seem to not visit the forums for some reason so they didn't know of the flap ideas y'all have been trying.
Yea if you don’t get on the forum and use the info available you're shorting yourself. I just took what I learned on here from COtoFLsurf and implemented it in the same way designed for my boat specifically.
No idea just made mine curved because of the direction of my tie down mounts and easier design to attach. Just 2 pins. Also made it 4’ wide and 20” long with a rounded end matching the bowed cross member.
No idea just made mine curved because of the direction of my tie down mounts and easier design to attach. Just 2 pins. Also made it 4’ wide and 20” long with a rounded end matching the bowed cross member.
That’s correct. It rotates freely as pressure pushes against the weight of it. Round poll inside the round tiedown points with pins on the outside of the tiedown points.
I must say your wave looks pretty insanely good!
Have you by any chance played with the steering nozzles adjustments? - to point those closer together, along the Yamaha new gimmicky SurfPoint (or whatever they call it).
