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SX 192 Mods

Gonrcng

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Absolutely. I will get one tomorrow for you.
 

swatski

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You can still get to the anode with the intake on, it just will take a little extra patience!
So from what I have read, the purpose of the anode water adapter is to combat "hot spots" that riva and the other racing teams have detected in that area of the motor. I would suspect that most of the added water will exit through the rear of the engine once the thermostat is open. (Big black hose that exits rear of motor and dumps above jet nozzle) Most of the water from the "pisser" is coming from the oil cooler (but I could be a little off on this)
I plan on taking some temperature readings using a flir or an infrared temp gun of the engine and play around with the water flow going to the IC. You will notice that you now have PLENTY of water flow to the IC. Im gonna talk to my company's Parker fluid power rep and see what kinds of metering devices I can adapt to the IC. I have also read people adjusting the flow to the anode water adapter too.
I am excited to see others taking on modifications. There are not a lot of us boat guys doing this.....I am certain you will not regret the modifications! Took boat out Tuesday and hit 51 mph gps with 2 adults and 3 kids. But most importantly I was able to consistently maintain these speeds....
These are outstanding results!

Sounds like you got your IC mods working very well. With these dedicated IC water lines, I would always worry about how much water you are diverting from the strainer intake, but now that I think about it, there is probably more than enough.

--
 

Gonrcng

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When you get time can you post a close up of the IC cleaning port. Im interested in seeing if I can adapt this to my boat.
Tks
Here is one of it out of the boat. Simple 3way t fitting with male threaded end and 2 open for barb fittings. image.png image.png
 

Gonrcng

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Hopefully someone sees this soon and can give advise.
So removing this anode to add cooling takes the anode out of the boat. Being I live in Florida.... Salt salt salt... Should I rethink this? I know the anode is a sacrificial tool. I could be wrong , but something tells me I want the anode in there.image.jpeg
 

JerryG

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Hopefully someone sees this soon and can give advise.
So removing this anode to add cooling takes the anode out of the boat. Being I live in Florida.... Salt salt salt... Should I rethink this? I know the anode is a sacrificial tool. I could be wrong , but something tells me I want the anode in there.View attachment 38208
I would think if you are going to use your boat in salt water, you would want the anode. I believe the one Riva uses in their kit retains the anode function. Will see if I can validate this.
 

JerryG

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These are outstanding results!

Sounds like you got your IC mods working very well. With these dedicated IC water lines, I would always worry about how much water you are diverting from the strainer intake, but now that I think about it, there is probably more than enough.

--
Yeah me too. I added the high flow strainer as well. I ran the boat really hard last Tuesday to see if I would have any temp issues with the motor since the lake is getting close to summer temperature and had no issues. I am gonna add a metering valve on the ic so I can play around with the flow and will take some temperature readings to see what I got! Will post for sure
 

Gonrcng

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image.jpeg Thinking I will try and call Riva to see if I can get that adapter with the anode by itself. For now I will plug the extra line and see how she runs. Got everything finished up today just before the rain. image.jpegimage.jpeg
 

Gonrcng

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Update for anyone interested. The part with anode is available from Riva. With barb fitting and bolt was $49 + shipping image.jpeg . Anyone running lakes only that didn't need the anode if interested I will sell the fitting I have for $30 shipped.
 

JerryG

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Here is one of it out of the boat. Simple 3way t fitting with male threaded end and 2 open for barb fittings. View attachment 38201 View attachment 38202
Hmmm, wonder if this was added as a dealer prep item? Can't seem to find it on the Yamaha parts sites. Does the regular quick coupler hook up to it or does a garden hose screw to it? Looks like a good way to use your favorite "salt away" product.
 

Gonrcng

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Hmmm, wonder if this was added as a dealer prep item? Can't seem to find it on the Yamaha parts sites. Does the regular quick coupler hook up to it or does a garden hose screw to it? Looks like a good way to use your favorite "salt away" product.
It came from Fizzle with my IC. After talking with them about the recommendation of flushing when running in salt water.
It is a hose fitting with a threaded plug.
 

Tom V

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Agh. I was afraid you were going to say that.. I will take a look tomorrow. I'm assuming if I can get to it the water being injected will exit through the the normal cooling pisser?
Your info has been a huge help in all of this. Thank you again.
The project looks good, I haven't done the extra cooling through the anode yet, let me know how it works out, you will see the intercooler water exiting the boat never gets hot. the line you remove off the old intercooler is your new water exit hose going through the boat , its the one closest to the bow, I replaced mine with a true 1/2 inch billet fitting, thats also how i back flush the intercooler, from out side the boat. ( water goes from the out side fitting through the intercooler down to the new pump plate fitting and out the pump)
 
Last edited:

Rob9550

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The project looks good, I haven't done the extra cooling through the anode yet, let me know how it works out, you will see the intercooler water exiting the boat never gets hot. the line you remove off the old intercooler is your new water exit hose going through the boat , its the one closest to the bow, I replaced mine with a true 1/2 inch billet fitting, thats also how i back flush the intercooler.
Do you flush it by forcing water into the outlet?
 

Gonrcng

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2016
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AR192
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The project looks good, I haven't done the extra cooling through the anode yet, let me know how it works out, you will see the intercooler water exiting the boat never gets hot. the line you remove off the old intercooler is your new water exit hose going through the boat , its the one closest to the bow, I replaced mine with a true 1/2 inch billet fitting, thats also how i back flush the intercooler.
Interesting. What size is the stock fitting? Did you change them all to match or just the IC exit? I can't wait to catch up with you at the island one weekend. I'd love to see your boat in person.
 

Tom V

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this is one on a guys boat I did awhile back, hold the stock flush adapter up to it and flush without engine running for 3-5 min
 

Tom V

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IMG_1352.jpg this is blocked off until i do the anode water inlet.
 

Tom V

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IMG_1357.JPG A better pic of the fitting and the opening, holding a socket up to it, Just hold the flush adapter to it to flush.
 
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