SX 192 Mods

[swatski]

Latest modification....
View attachment 37264

@JerryG Any updates on your install? I'm hoping you will post something, want to see what you did - it looks GOOD.

I've just pulled the trigger - and getting the 190/192 Engine Hatch Cushion Kit.

But, mine will be an effing nightmare to install... I literally have about $300 worth of soundproofing under that seat alone... So, will need to find the cushion bolts somehow - digging into half a foot of best soundproofing insulation known to man, LOL.












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[JerryG]

@JerryG Any updates on your install? I'm hoping you will post something, want to see what you did - it looks GOOD.

I've just pulled the trigger - and getting the 190/192 Engine Hatch Cushion Kit.

But, mine will be an effing nightmare to install... I literally have about $300 worth of soundproofing under that seat alone... So, will need to find the cushion bolts somehow - digging into half a foot of best soundproofing insulation known to man, LOL.

View attachment 37344

View attachment 37345

View attachment 37346


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I have been in contact with Will @JetBoatPilot over the last few days with questions concerning the center cushion construction. I am definitely pleased with the concept and the construction of the outer cushions. what I can do that may help you is take some quick measurements of exactly where the 4 bolts are located. That way you will have a good starting point. If that will help, let me know. I'll also post some pictures of the installation as well, just as soon as I get home today.....

 

[swatski]

I have been in contact with Will @JetBoatPilot over the last few days with questions concerning the center cushion construction. I am definitely pleased with the concept and the construction of the outer cushions. what I can do that may help you is take some quick measurements of exactly where the 4 bolts are located. That way you will have a good starting point. If that will help, let me know. I'll also post some pictures of the installation as well, just as soon as I get home today.....

@JerryG Thanks - that would be great help with bolt locations, no worries though. I have to say I was inspired by your post to finally do this mod, always wanted to.
I just tend to do a lot of things in the wrong order.... LMAO.

 

[DBamaC]

How much good did soundproofing that hatch do?

 

[JerryG]

@swatski so here is a little more detail on the hatch cover cushion installation.
First. Find where the (4)mounting bolts are located. For those with stock insulation, its as easy as feeling around until you find them. For those that have done sound deadening upgrades, I have attached a few pictures to help you.
First measure down 4 1/2" and place a mark.

Then measure over 3" and that is the center of the upper right bolt

Do the same for the upper left bolt. Exact same measurement. The bottom (2) bolts are exactly 14" c to c from the top bolts.
Once the 4 bolts are located you will need to remove the factory hardware. The instructions say to cut a 1/2" hole in the insulation to do this. I simply cut a small slit and worked through that. Obviously, if you have added insulation then you will need to cut a hole through it. Instructions say to use a 11mm socket but this is an uncommon size in deepwell so a 7/16" will work. Must use a deepwell. The seat is held on with a 1" fender washer and a lock washer and nut.

Once all the hardware is removed, you can simply remove the factory cushion.

Once removed, get out your favorite heavy duty cleaners. My boat stays covered and it was still nasty!
Now its time to install the split cushions. This is fairly straightforward as each cushion is marked.

Simply install each cushion with the supplied hardware. Ensure that the cushion is sitting flush with the engine hatch. Note the lock nuts in the above picture. These need to sit down inside the factory holes.
Next its time to install the anti slip between the two cushions. Its not too clear, but you can see there is an outline already so just use this as a guide.

And your almost finished. Lastly install the small strap snap in the engine hatch. This I haven't done yet. Below are a few pictures of what you can expect. I did have a lenghty discussion with Will about the design of the center cushion. You will notice it is not constructed the same as the two outer cushions. This causes a height variation between the three cushions.


For me, this install was a no brainer. I couldn't stand stepping on my seats and knew over time this would damage the seat, plus a seat provides a very unstable platform for those who are a little older. Hope this helps

 

[swatski]

@swatski so here is a little more detail on the hatch cover cushion installation.
First. Find where the (4)mounting bolts are located. For those with stock insulation, its as easy as feeling around until you find them. For those that have done sound deadening upgrades, I have attached a few pictures to help you.
First measure down 4 1/2" and place a mark.
View attachment 37349
Then measure over 3" and that is the center of the upper right bolt
View attachment 37350
Do the same for the upper left bolt. Exact same measurement. The bottom (2) bolts are exactly 14" c to c from the top bolts.
Once the 4 bolts are located you will need to remove the factory hardware. The instructions say to cut a 1/2" hole in the insulation to do this. I simply cut a small slit and worked through that. Obviously, if you have added insulation then you will need to cut a hole through it. Instructions say to use a 11mm socket but this is an uncommon size in deepwell so a 7/16" will work. Must use a deepwell. The seat is held on with a 1" fender washer and a lock washer and nut.
View attachment 37351
Once all the hardware is removed, you can simply remove the factory cushion.
View attachment 37352
Once removed, get out your favorite heavy duty cleaners. My boat stays covered and it was still nasty!
Now its time to install the split cushions. This is fairly straightforward as each cushion is marked.
View attachment 37353
Simply install each cushion with the supplied hardware. Ensure that the cushion is sitting flush with the engine hatch. Note the lock nuts in the above picture. These need to sit down inside the factory holes.
Next its time to install the anti slip between the two cushions. Its not too clear, but you can see there is an outline already so just use this as a guide.
View attachment 37354
And your almost finished. Lastly install the small strap snap in the engine hatch. This I haven't done yet. Below are a few pictures of what you can expect. I did have a lenghty discussion with Will about the design of the center cushion. You will notice it is not constructed the same as the two outer cushions. This causes a height variation between the three cushions.
View attachment 37355
View attachment 37356
For me, this install was a no brainer. I couldn't stand stepping on my seats and knew over time this would damage the seat, plus a seat provides a very unstable platform for those who are a little older. Hope this helps

@JerryG Thanks a million - that is very helpful!

 

[swatski]

How much good did soundproofing that hatch do?

@DBamaC It did a lot, but not enough.

I don't think I have much sound coming through my engine cover anymore, but the noise still reverberates throughout the hull.
I went totally berzerk with my soundproofing throughout the boat, every hatch, under all seat cushions, waterbox compartment, I have about 300lbs of soundproofing and over $1,500 in proofing materials in the boat. I even injected polyurethane foam to seal some of the gaps and gaping holes. Thought I can turn my Yammie into a Bentley... Well, no such luck.

With all my ridiculous effort I think I cut it down by about 30-40% (by ear). Which made it (almost) bearable.

It is still the only thing I hate about this boat: it makes such EFFING loud and harsh noise which I can not seem to be able to kill completely.

 

[JerryG]

@JerryG Thanks a million - that is very helpful!

Anytime. Let us know how it goes! If you just placed your order, you may get a call today or tomorrow stating it will be a few weeks. Not sure if they are "made to order" or if they were just out of stock but it took almost a month from order to reception for me. But they do a good job of providing updates

 

[JerryG]

@DBamaC It did a lot, but not enough.

I don't think I have much sound coming through my engine cover anymore, but the noise still reverberates throughout the hull.
I went totally berzerk with my soundproofing throughout the boat, every hatch, under all seat cushions, waterbox compartment, I have about 300lbs of soundproofing and over $1,500 in proofing materials in the boat. I even injected polyurethane foam to seal some of the gaps and gaping holes. Thought I can turn my Yammie into a Bentley... Well, no such luck.

With all my ridiculous effort I think I cut it down by about 30-40% (by ear). Which made it (almost) bearable.

It is still the only thing I hate about this boat: it makes such EFFING loud and harsh noise which I can not seem to be able to kill completely.

Thats good information. I was considering an attempt myself. It's fine when I am out playing but then there are those times when its early morning, lake is about empty, water is like glass and all you can hear is that loud engine! Even worse when I am just cruising at 5k to 6k rpm

 

[swatski]

Anytime. Let us know how it goes! If you just placed your order, you may get a call today or tomorrow stating it will be a few weeks. Not sure if they are "made to order" or if they were just out of stock but it took almost a month from order to reception for me. But they do a good job of providing updates

Yes, I think they now have it in stock, talked to them this morning, placed my order.

 

[JerryG]

Here is my contribution. Same story as everyone else. Runs fine until the dreaded heat soak sets in. Hopefully the new ic will fix the problem! View attachment 37021
Dedicated water line
View attachment 37022

Just a little "attention to detail" tidbit. If you are considering adding a dedicated water line to an aftermarket ic or stock ic and wondering what to do with the extra port on you splitter, you can either use it for an anode replacement feed or just buy a splitter from a sx/ar 190. Quick and easy for under $15.

 

[JerryG]

So I finally got the boat out Sunday to try out the IC dedicated waterline. Air temp around 85, water temp around 73. I had 4 adults and 3 children. So during the 7hr outing there was a lot of wot runs and a lot of idling. Can't really comment much on performance due to the varying conditions from last test but I can comment on the water flow and temp exiting the "pee hole" (nothing scientific of course) Flow seems to have doubled. It is very noticeable, at idle and underway. As far as temperatures, prior to the ic upgrade the outlet would almost burn your hand. Literally! After the ic upgrade the temperature was around hot (kinda like dish water, hot at first but you get used to it) After the dedicated line the temperature was just "warm" I know this is not scientific but I am more confident now that heat soak will not be an issue, even as we enter the hottest part of the year. I am very satisfied!
Only change is im gonna replace the existing "jet to hull" waterline with a stainless steel covered ptfe. More for aesthetic but also for reliability!
More to come......

 

[Higgy]

@JerryG I like it. Gotta get me one of them intercoolers. That braided stainless line should look nice on there.

 

[Gonrcng]

6 hours in (not in a hurry) and the IC is done , ribbon delete is done. Dedicated waterline goes in tomorrow.

 

[JerryG]

6 hours in (not in a hurry) and the IC is done , ribbon delete is done. Dedicated waterline goes in tomorrow.View attachment 38153View attachment 38154 View attachment 38155

Nice! So whats the little cap on, what looks like the IC water lines? And the blue hose going to the SC inlet?
Just make sure you chamfer (sp) the hole after you drill. Will help to prevent spider cracks in the gelcoat

 

[Gonrcng]

Nice! So whats the little cap on, what looks like the IC water lines? And the blue hose going to the SC inlet?
Just make sure you chamfer (sp) the hole after you drill. Will help to prevent spider cracks in the gelcoat

On the 16's the blue line is just a direct port to spray fogging oil into the intake.
The cap is a flush port to flush the IC. I live in Florida and am in salt water 80% of the time.
I'm about to try and figure it out via Google but you had mentioned it in the past so maybe you can tell me where to look. After i install the direct line , the stock line can be directed to the anode? Where is this located? I got that fitting in the cooling kit I bought but absolutely zero instruction in the package.

 

[JerryG]

On the 16's the blue line is just a direct port to spray fogging oil into the intake.
The cap is a flush port to flush the IC. I live in Florida and am in salt water 80% of the time.
I'm about to try and figure it out via Google but you had mentioned it in the past so maybe you can tell me where to look. After i install the direct line , the stock line can be directed to the anode? Where is this located? I got that fitting in the cooling kit I bought but absolutely zero instruction in the package.

Well its a lot easier to get to with intake off but if you look kinda under the map sensor, up under the intake you will see it. It will look like the part with your kit just no fitting. Held in with one bolt.... At least thats where its at on the 2014s. Riva has a similar part and their instructions can be found on their website....
Let us know how it works out. Was thinking about buying one as well.....

 

[Gonrcng]

Agh. I was afraid you were going to say that.. I will take a look tomorrow. I'm assuming if I can get to it the water being injected will exit through the the normal cooling pisser?
Your info has been a huge help in all of this. Thank you again.

 

[JerryG]

Agh. I was afraid you were going to say that.. I will take a look tomorrow. I'm assuming if I can get to it the water being injected will exit through the the normal cooling pisser?
Your info has been a huge help in all of this. Thank you again.

You can still get to the anode with the intake on, it just will take a little extra patience!
So from what I have read, the purpose of the anode water adapter is to combat "hot spots" that riva and the other racing teams have detected in that area of the motor. I would suspect that most of the added water will exit through the rear of the engine once the thermostat is open. (Big black hose that exits rear of motor and dumps above jet nozzle) Most of the water from the "pisser" is coming from the oil cooler (but I could be a little off on this)
I plan on taking some temperature readings using a flir or an infrared temp gun of the engine and play around with the water flow going to the IC. You will notice that you now have PLENTY of water flow to the IC. Im gonna talk to my company's Parker fluid power rep and see what kinds of metering devices I can adapt to the IC. I have also read people adjusting the flow to the anode water adapter too.
I am excited to see others taking on modifications. There are not a lot of us boat guys doing this.....I am certain you will not regret the modifications! Took boat out Tuesday and hit 51 mph gps with 2 adults and 3 kids. But most importantly I was able to consistently maintain these speeds....

 

[JerryG]

6 hours in (not in a hurry) and the IC is done , ribbon delete is done. Dedicated waterline goes in tomorrow.View attachment 38153View attachment 38154 View attachment 38155

When you get time can you post a close up of the IC cleaning port. Im interested in seeing if I can adapt this to my boat.
Tks