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Top speed of 45 loaded and 50 with ~300 lbs. RPM in the 7500 range. I did not do a dedicated cooling line.This was a good read on the "GIO" http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=111406&page=3. It seems the additional cooling could be a culprit. I probably won't do a dedicated IC line at first when I upgrade the IC. I'd rather add one mod at the time so I know which has an affect or not.
@texmo02 what was your top speed and RPM on your success days and did you end up running a dedicated cooling line to the SVHO IC?
They tend to test in winter or when it's cold/cool.@CQQL 7500 or so is what these boats run. Boattest.com also said they got 50 MPH so I wouldn't put much stock in their test numbers. Yea we have same boat and color
Lots in there and i am on a phone so i will give it a quick look.Hi guys, new AR192 owner suffering from heat soak. I get stuck at 6900 and 34mph. Currently I am fighting with the dealership and Yamaha to sort it out, but I am planning to take things into my own hands very shortly if I can't get satisfaction from them. I am very familiar with forced induction systems and have built several hi power FI engines over the years. My experience thus far leaves me very frustrated.
I thought I would pose a few questions for all those here.
I have the type 14 kit ordered with all of the parts that SamCF listed and it is currently en route (arriving tomorrow). One change I am making is I will be using the Riva 1/2" outlet pump strainer plate and using a 1/2" water line to the intercooler, but I will use a 3/4" water outlet line. My reasoning behind this is that the water once heated has more volume, and the same mass flow rate will require a larger diameter outlet line...maybe not 3/4", but I can't find 5/8" thru-hull fittings in a 45 degree angle so 3/4" it is. Any thoughts on this idea?
Another change I am considering is whether I can sub in a 3" silicone 180 degree section for the supercharger discharge to IC air inlet as opposed to the three piece assembly that everyone has shown in their photos...or is the three piece with the aluminum pipe necessary for structural support? I could see the possibility of the tube pinching due to the unsupported weight of the IC. I figure I might need the 180 about an inch or two shorter on one side of the turn or the other due to height offset, and it would result in a much cleaner and uniform turn for the air. Any guesses?
Another thing I am planning is using 3m 4200 for my thru-hull sealant. It is softer than either 1211 or 3M 5200, but cures in 24 hours as opposed to 5-7 days and it can be removed fairly easily. Which sealant was used by any who have already done the upgrade and how is it holding up?
@haknslash can't wait to see how the install goes. Your future video might give me the confidence to try this install next spring
Be sure to post where you locate your Y fitting so I can copy off your paper...or just grab and extra.It's a very straight forward install. Two 14mm bolts and one 14mm nut are what hold the intercooler to the bracket and engine. I should have the video up sometime this week. Should take most people 30 minutes to an hour to do a SVHO swap, so don't sweat it. I'm sure you can do the install yourself. I would have had mine done yesterday but I needed a longer socket extension and I also want to try and fine a Y fitting on my lunch break today. I'll settle for a T fitting but would prefer a Y for better flow.