SX 192 Mods

[Jetswu87]

To do one compete hose assembly for the second pisser you will need the following numbers.

1ea. 25.
1ea. 26
2ea. 27
1ea. 28
1ea. 29
1ea. 30

Thanks!

Ah that "spring" makes sense now.

So order this assembly and those fancy pissers and I'll be in business. I'm currently T'd for the exit lines but now leaning towards doing this.

 

[Rick Owens]

If you t'd and cut your other line you will need to order the hose that you cut.

Also I ordered the 3/4 x 45 but didn't want to cut my hoses that big so I also ordered the 1/2 x45 and that is what I used it has a 1/2 barb were the 3/4 x 45 had a 3/4 barb and I think a 1-1/8 hole.

 

[d_coyne1984]

Those that added the extra pisser, did you order the hoses through yamaha?

http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/540dccc2f8700217e452cd4b/exhaust-2

I ordered part # 12, 13, 14 (the 45 degree pisser, gasket, and nut from the Exhaust 3 page (http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/540dccc2f8700217e452cd4c/exhaust-3), I bought 1/2" ID radiator hose from the local O'Reilly Autoparts, and the screw clamps (x2) I bought from the local hardware store. Just a reminder, tape off the area you plan to drill with painters tape. I forgot and chipped a little bit of the gelcoat when I drilled. Luckily it is hidden by the gasket and nut.

 

[Jetswu87]

I ordered part # 12, 13, 14 (the 45 degree pisser, gasket, and nut from the Exhaust 3 page (http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/540dccc2f8700217e452cd4c/exhaust-3), I bought 1/2" ID radiator hose from the local O'Reilly Autoparts, and the screw clamps (x2) I bought from the local hardware store. Just a reminder, tape off the area you plan to drill with painters tape. I forgot and chipped a little bit of the gelcoat when I drilled. Luckily it is hidden by the gasket and nut.

Thanks, I jumped the gun here and need to poke my head in there. I figured I can probably use heater hose but I recall the factory hose being very pliable which was helpful for the bends it needed to make.

If you t'd and cut your other line you will need to order the hose that you cut.

Also I ordered the 3/4 x 45 but didn't want to cut my hoses that big so I also ordered the 1/2 x45 and that is what I used it has a 1/2 barb were the 3/4 x 45 had a 3/4 barb and I think a 1-1/8 hole.

Cool, I didn't modify any of the factory hoses/fittings so I could swap by to OEM if needed for warranty. I'm with you here I'll do the 1/2" fittings.

I want to add a second bilge pump so if I'm drilling one hole, I may as well drill two.

 

[Rick Owens]

If you need the bends on the heater hose autozone has the 45 bend pieces

 

[Rick Owens]

Why a second bilge?

 

[haknslash]

Why a second bilge?

A lot of people want ease of mind having a backup bilge pump in case the stock one failed for whatever reason. Also in the event you took on a lot of water and the stock one couldn't keep up, a secondary bilge would help get the water out. Most go with one that has a float switch so that it turns on when water rises enough to activate the switch and pump. The stock one is not float switch activated and only cycles every 10 minutes or so instead ( I can't remember the exact interval but you can't hear it cycle if the motor is off).

I plan to install one but I think I'm going to mount mine in the actual bilge below the swim platform as that is the lowest portion of the boat and should fill first. Some people install them next to the stock one in the engine compartment as well.

 

[Jetswu87]

Why a second bilge?

A lot of people want ease of mind having a backup bilge pump in case the stock one failed for whatever reason. Also in the event you took on a lot of water and the stock one couldn't keep up, a secondary bilge would help get the water out. Most go with one that has a float switch so that it turns on when water rises enough to activate the switch and pump. The stock one is not float switch activated and only cycles every 10 minutes or so instead ( I can't remember the exact interval but you can't hear it cycle if the motor is off).

I plan to install one but I think I'm going to mount mine in the actual bilge below the swim platform as that is the lowest portion of the boat and should fill first. Some people install them next to the stock one in the engine compartment as well.

Nailed it. My first outing this year my bilge wasn't working. It tripped the breaker (which I didn't realize until later that day). I took it out and cycled it and it free'd up.

I've flushed the bilge after just about every use in salt water and cleaned the screen. Boat has 30 hours and after that trip I don't have much confidence in it now.

I believe the factory timer is 2-3 minutes actually. If you switch it off and back on it'll cycle immediately, I do this when cleaning the boat/engine compartment.

 

[Tom V]

I finished up installing a Rule 1500 with an auto Johnson float switch, Direct wire to the deep cell battery, no more worts about sinking. All it takes is a leaky clean out plug or some silly leak and the engine will get destroyed. Also added a large hatch to get better access to the exhaust clamps and the new tow valve.

 

[Tom V]

 

[Tom V]

 

[Tom V]

 

[Tom V]

 

[Rick Owens]

Where did you run the bilge line?

 

[haknslash]

@Tom V is that valve for when being towed?

 

[Tom V]

Where did you run the bilge line?

right next to the stock one

 

[Tom V]

@Tom V is that valve for when being towed?

yes, just in case. Or if I dock at a hotel overnight I can flush the engine while the boat sits in the water, I have the I.C. set up with a shut off valve too.

 

[haknslash]

yes, just in case. Or if I dock at a hotel overnight I can flush the engine while the boat sits in the water, I have the I.C. set up with a shut off valve too.

I need to do it on mine for those just in case moments. Is that the best access point on the 192 or just something you chose to do with a new hatch/access door?

 

[Jetswu87]

right next to the stock oneView attachment 56039

After looking at my boat, I don't mind the stock pissers. I have the same color combo, think I'm going to go this route too.

That's an 1 1/8" line right?

 

[Tom V]

I need to do it on mine for those just in case moments. Is that the best access point on the 192 or just something you chose to do with a new hatch/access door?

Its the farthest place in the stern I could get too, had to make a stainless bracket for the pump to sit on since there isn't much to screw down into. I had a customers 192 come close to sinking from a worn out clean out plug seal, the plug was allowing water to flow around the clean out plug and into the rear compartment, while he was running the boat wide open. It was crazy, if you ran at 30 to 35 no water would come up around the plug but if you hammered down and ran wide open the water would come right up around the plug and fill the boat up fast. A new clean out rebuild kit fixed it but scary deal, didn't want it happening to me.