SX 192 Mods

[SamCF]

Most of the -20 blue washer fluid is 30-33% Meth, a cheaper alternative.

If you're not tuning more aggressively for the meth you could probably get away with running that.

What size tank do you have? I use to run a 1 gallon tank in a road race car with the smallest nozzle on an AEM kit, in a 25min race it'd use over half the tank (20-25min). Figure the car was in boost for a majority of the time. Depending on when you have this start to spray it may use it very quickly with two nozzles. With the medium nozzle I had to a 2 gallon tank.

Do you have a wideband o2 for monitoring? If you're spraying a bunch of this keep a close eye on the transition point of the spray. Expect a fuel ratio change.

Installed a 1 gallon tank. I'll just carry an extra jug, but I don't think I'll need it. It's only going to spray from 8000 rpm up.

I ran washer fluid on other applications, but really want the 50% meth on this application. The stock fuel system is maxed out past 8300-8400 rpm with this charger wheel. At that point it will be beneficial to add the methanol for fuel and cooling. I do monitor AFR, it runs 12-12.2 up to 8300 and runs 12.5-12.7 at 8600 rpm. Thats why this is set up to spray only at high rpm. I don't plan on spinning that high again, but the added fuel/octane will make me feel a lot better about it.

I had a PowerShot to add fuel up top, but the transitions in its tuning zones were not smooth. The run yesterday was stock fuel system with Dean's tune. It didn't spin high enough to see if it would lean out though. I have a fuel pressure regulator and high volume pump to install, but I don't want to throw everything at it at once.

 

[Jetswu87]

Installed a 1 gallon tank. I'll just carry an extra jug, but I don't think I'll need it. It's only going to spray from 8000 rpm up.

I ran washer fluid on other applications, but really want the 50% meth on this application. The stock fuel system is maxed out past 8300-8400 rpm with this charger wheel. At that point it will be beneficial to add the methanol for fuel and cooling. I do monitor AFR, it runs 12-12.2 up to 8300 and runs 12.5-12.7 at 8600 rpm. Thats why this is set up to spray only at high rpm. I don't plan on spinning that high again, but the added fuel/octane will make me feel a lot better about it.

I had a PowerShot to add fuel up top, but the transitions in its tuning zones were not smooth. The run yesterday was stock fuel system with Dean's tune. It didn't spin high enough to see if it would lean out though. I have a fuel pressure regulator and high volume pump to install, but I don't want to throw everything at it at once.

Good stuff. Wasn't sure how familiar you are with the systems, hope you didn't take offense to my post!

 

[SamCF]

Good stuff. Wasn't sure how familiar you are with the systems, hope you didn't take offense to my post!

No offense taken. These forums need as much info as possible in them. Playing with this stuff can cost you an engine rebuild really quick. I see guys on Greenhulk mod their skis with no understanding of how it works. They just copy other setups and wonder why it doesn't work. Better to speak up and save someone the trouble and cost.

I really want to see some other boats here try a few things. I don't feel like there is a hull/aerodynamic limitation to these boats like people think. Mine is a mild/safe setup compared to a lot of the skis. It would not surprise me to see 65-66 mph with the right setup.

 

[swatski]

I don't feel like there is a hull/aerodynamic limitation to these boats like people think.

Yep.
You've killed that myth.


--

 

[SamCF]

We did a lot cruising today. Surprised to see my best fuel economy with this setup.
Stock: 6000 rpm, 31 mph, 3.0 mpg
Since modified my best was at 28 mph, 2.8 mpg
Today: 6000 rpm, 34 mph, 3.3 mpg.

A Stingray 225sx pulled up beside us and we ran about a mile wide open. We pulled away by maybe 150'. The kids got a big kick out of it.

I bored the pump nozzle to 85.5mm, but still hung at 8000 rpm. We tried the meth injection starting at 7700 rpm, but it was overfueling. I think tuning the impeller to run 8300 rpm with methanol coming on around 8000 will work really well.

 

[swatski]

We did a lot cruising today. Surprised to see my best fuel economy with this setup.
Stock: 6000 rpm, 31 mph, 3.0 mpg
Since modified my best was at 28 mph, 2.8 mpg
Today: 6000 rpm, 34 mph, 3.3 mpg.

A Stingray 225sx pulled up beside us and we ran about a mile wide open. We pulled away by maybe 150'. The kids got a big kick out of it.

I bored the pump nozzle to 85.5mm, but still hung at 8000 rpm. We tried the meth injection starting at 7700 rpm, but it was overfueling. I think tuning the impeller to run 8300 rpm with methanol coming on around 8000 will work really well.

I thought the OEM nozzle (venturi) is 85mm in the 190, is it smaller in the 192/5?

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[SamCF]

I thought the OEM nozzle (venturi) is 85mm in the 190, is it smaller in the 192/5?

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Mine was 81mm, but maybe my caliper is off. The skis that do the 160mm conversion run 85-86mm nozzles. I didn't want to touch this impeller, but it looks like it needs to pitch down just a bit.

 

[SamCF]

Looks like the nozzle on the 190 and 192 are different part numbers

 

[RookieJetBoater]

Hi Sam and folks,

I am planning to do serious upgrades on the 2015 AR192 that we have had for two years. Last year I upgraded to SVHO IC but no additional cooling line.

Best on GPS has been 47MPH @ 7800 RPM. That is with bimini up. Even with the SVHO IC, I was still seeing heat soak issues, albeit better. was able to hold 7300 RPM. Without the IC upgrade was seeing about 7000RPM. Surface water gets to about 80F and air temperature peaks around 90F with high humidity.

I would be happy with 55MPH that I can maintain all day.

Can you help with the priority of upgrades and recommend equipment to measure performance? I want to keep reasonably high reliability.

Stage 1 : Resolve cooling issue and prepare for higher RPM.

1. type 14, dedicated cooling line, strainer?
2. Improve handling (lucky 13 and steering fins?

Stage 2 : Increase RPM to maximum safe level in stages and measure performance at each step.

1. AFR and RPFR.
2. Re-flash to ?8300? RPM (I don't want to lose cruise control) - measure.
3. Re-pitch impeller - measure.
4. New Boost wheel. - measure.

What about removing flame arrestor? Is this required?

Thx

JB

 

[SamCF]

Hi Sam and folks,

I am planning to do serious upgrades on the 2015 AR192 that we have had for two years. Last year I upgraded to SVHO IC but no additional cooling line.

Best on GPS has been 47MPH @ 7800 RPM. That is with bimini up. Even with the SVHO IC, I was still seeing heat soak issues, albeit better. was able to hold 7300 RPM. Without the IC upgrade was seeing about 7000RPM. Surface water gets to about 80F and air temperature peaks around 90F with high humidity.

I would be happy with 55MPH that I can maintain all day.

Can you help with the priority of upgrades and recommend equipment to measure performance? I want to keep reasonably high reliability.

Stage 1 : Resolve cooling issue and prepare for higher RPM.

1. type 14, dedicated cooling line, strainer?
2. Improve handling (lucky 13 and steering fins?

Stage 2 : Increase RPM to maximum safe level in stages and measure performance at each step.

1. AFR and RPFR.
2. Re-flash to ?8300? RPM (I don't want to lose cruise control) - measure.
3. Re-pitch impeller - measure.
4. New Boost wheel. - measure.

What about removing flame arrestor? Is this required?

Thx

JB

That's pretty much it. The ET wheels are the best, but push you closer to maxing out your fuel system. The C3 wheel will get you to 55mph without worrying about fuel coming up short.

I love the ET Low Boost wheel, but it's been a lot of work getting the pump dialed in.

 

[Jetswu87]

No offense taken. These forums need as much info as possible in them. Playing with this stuff can cost you an engine rebuild really quick. I see guys on Greenhulk mod their skis with no understanding of how it works. They just copy other setups and wonder why it doesn't work. Better to speak up and save someone the trouble and cost.

I really want to see some other boats here try a few things. I don't feel like there is a hull/aerodynamic limitation to these boats like people think. Mine is a mild/safe setup compared to a lot of the skis. It would not surprise me to see 65-66 mph with the right setup.

Watching your setup for sure gives me the itch. However coming from the modded car/racing community, there's a few things I leave alone...My tow rig and my boat.

This boat is the first thing I've ever purchased new just as I didn't want to deal with reliability issues...or fixing someone elses mess. That's about the only thing that keeps me from modding it, I run wide open so infrequently and I don't want to be hawk eyeing gauges and what not on the water. My worst fear is mechanical issues on the water.

Maybe one day, but for now 45-50mph is fine....Until I start hanging out with groups of people with faster boats lol.

 

[RookieJetBoater]

Sam,

What about the flame arrestor. Removing that will require me to upgrade the air filter as well, correct?

Is it really going to increase MPH?

JB

 

[SamCF]

Sam,

What about the flame arrestor. Removing that will require me to upgrade the air filter as well, correct?

Is it really going to increase MPH?

JB

It is very restrictive. The removal usually results in 150-200 rpm gains. It is recommended to add an air filter that doubles as a flame arrestor.

 

[RookieJetBoater]

Based on feedback, I have tweaked the plan.

Would the following have any reliability implications? What would the re-pitch do to hole shot? I am thinking that if I can rev to 7750 it will make up for the loss of torque due to re-pitch?

1. type 14, dedicated cooling line, strainer?
2. Remove flame arrestor and put new air filter.
3. Improve handling (lucky 13 and steering fins?)
4. Re-pitch impeller to increase >47MPH at 7750 rev limit.

After debugging the first set of changes and generating some performance data, then can look at the higher risk/cost options.

1. AFR and RPFR.
2. Re-flash to ?8300? RPM (I don't want to lose cruise control)
3. New Boost wheel.

Last 2 question (I hope)
- is there a tune available that doesn't cause me to lose cruise control
- Is there any risk/benefit to a new boost wheel and re-pitch without re-flash and AFR?

 

[SamCF]

This is the order I would go with. I might be forgetting something. Hopefully others will jump in if I missed anything. The ski guys on Greenhulk have tried every possible combo and you can read their successes and failures. This engine has been out for 10 years, and the limits of reliability are well documented.

1. Intercooler (with dedicated line) and Blow off valve
2. Ribbon delete/flame arrestor removal
3. Lucky 13 Cone

Drive it and see how you like it. These mods are enough to keep everyone else happy... except me I guess.

Next round of mods can go conservative to maintain reliability or more extreme requiring more supporting mods to keep the engine safe. R3 Tune and Maptuner maintain all stock functions.

Option 1: Mild wheel, Stock tune. Target 7700 rpm. I think you could see 52mph with this setup. The correct impeller pitch will be crucial.
1. C3 wheel
2. Add pitch to stock impeller to keep under factory rev limit. (The stock impeller is very smooth running with added pitch.)

Option 2: Mild wheel with tune. Target 8500 rpm. Maybe 53-55 mph (just a guess)
1. C3 wheel
2. Tune of your choice
3. Pitch stock impeller for 8300-8500 rpm.

Option 3: ETLB wheel with tune. Target 8500 rpm. 58-60mph
1. ETLB wheel
2. Tune of your choice
3. AFR gauge. You may have to add FPR if running lean. Will have to watch gauges, especially in colder weather or drastic elevation changes.
4. Repitch stock impeller or upgrade to Solas 13/17 160mm impeller and wear ring.

Option 4: ET 15.5 wheel with tune. Target 8500 rpm. 62+mph (just guessing)
1. ET 15.5 wheel
2. Upgrade supercharger shaft
3. Tune of your choice
3. AFR gauge.
4. FPR or larger injectors. Might need high volume fuel pump.
5. Upgrade to Solas 13/18 160mm impeller and wear ring. Might even need the Riva 160mm pump.

 

[haknslash]

Sam,

What about the flame arrestor. Removing that will require me to upgrade the air filter as well, correct?

Is it really going to increase MPH?

JB

In my testing I found that it improved my throttle response more than anything. Sound also increased but IMO the engine sounds better/throatier without the ribbon. Top speed was unaffected for me. I'm near sea level so higher elevation guys may see a bigger benefit? IMO I didn't find the hassle of the install worth the gains. However if you plan to really go with more performance parts then by all means pull the ribbon out as you will want the most flow and least restriction.

Here's a video I did after the ribbon delete. Note that I had already upgraded my intercooler to get rid of the heat soak issue.

 

[SamCF]

Really nice intercooler set up with blow off valve.

http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=269811

 

[Kyle smitb]

Sorry if this is a repeated question. Should I use the SHO or SVHO pump strainer for my boat when running a dedicated water line?

 

[SamCF]

Sorry if this is a repeated question. Should I use the SHO or SVHO pump strainer for my boat when running a dedicated water line?

I wasn't aware that there was a difference. If you have a 192 use the SHO. If you have a 195 use the SVHO.

 

[Kyle smitb]

There is two different ones. RY1013-WS-40 for HO/SHO and RY1013-WS-80 for SVHO. Thank you for the reply.