The Perfect Pass Thread

[JetPowered]

Tricks for calibrating the servos? Following the PP instructions, I statically adjusted the servos the take the slack out. When power is applied and it goes thru the self calibration, it pulls the cable enough to partially open the butterfly valves in the intake. So I re adjust the cables to prevent this but then then servos are maxed out and hit the limit.

 

[sysinu]

Nice. I was thinking about your problem today and I thought maybe you needed more slack there. You beat me to it. Glad you found it!!

Thanks, so am I. What's curious is I didn't have any more/less slack in the cable - or at least I shouldn't have. In fact, I should have less slack now than before... it's almost like I compressed the tube that the throttle cable is in. I'll have to take pictures and compare the difference but where you can see my previous throttle cable was a straight line (though the black tube part of the cable was fully seated) now there is a slight bend in the cable - really hard to describe other than I tried to compress the cable between my PP and the potentiometer.

 

[sysinu]

Tricks for calibrating the servos? Following the PP instructions, I statically adjusted the servos the take the slack out. When power is applied and it goes thru the self calibration, it pulls the cable enough to partially open the butterfly valves in the intake. So I re adjust the cables to prevent this but then then servos are maxed out and hit the limit.

That seams like the trick... turn the knob on PP until you can't really turn it anymore and adjust your idle to have your potentiometer completely closed at that position. For me, it just so happened to be that position had my throttles sync'd pretty well for WOT as well as various throttle positions along the way. So with your PP all the way to its max throttle position, you want to adjust your throttle cables so you can be idle in neutral and so WOT on both throttles has the same cable tension (without over-tightening the cables or you'll have throttle slip).

 

[sstegh]

Another question... what are you guys doing to help the two tac's not continuously error now that the old speedometer isn't hooked up? Can we just use that plug for the old GPS elsewhere or should I continue to have my old speedometer plugged in and zip tied to the wires behind my dash?

Did you end up solving this problem?

 

[sysinu]

Did you end up solving this problem?

I have not gotten an answer to this yet. Because of that, I have my old speedo still plugged in, but hanging with the cables behind my dash. I was going to call PP tomorrow and ask them what they recommend before I call my dealer (that said, I am dropping my boat off at the dealer tomorrow to get my impellers swapped and spark plugs changed).

 

[CFD3Captain]

Got mine installed today. I have no idea if it's right, but it powered up and seemed to go through the tests listed in the manual just fine. I didn't have a chance to put on the hose and check the idle out (maybe tomorrow) Overall, it was not THAT bad of a process. I spent more time deliberating if I was making the right decision on where to mount the servo tray and where to relocate the potentiometer (since 6" didn't seem like an appropriate distance). I was also pleased that the silver face gauge looked good. I was REALLY worried about it. I thought when I saw another 192 with a black gauge that it really looked out of place so I chose the silver. But once the package came I was not sure it was going to look right. I think it looks nice and is different from what most everyone else has done Hopefully there isn't too much adjusting to be done on the water. I also still have to mount the box and tidy up some wires under the dash. I can honestly say after doing this (my first real boat mod) that I am feeling VERY comfortable attempting others.

Untitled by Nozzleman216, on Flickr

 

[JetPowered]

I've obviously been browsing this thread on my phone for a while, which doesn't show boat model info in the thread. It looks like everyone is installing this in a 2010 and up and it's clear the install and components are very different from my 2008 MR1 HO. Example, @sysinu says to adjust my potentiometer. Well, I have a throttle linkage plate which ties the main throttle cable with the servo actuator cable. From there a new cable runs into the intake housing pulling the throttle body linkage open a closed. All mechanical.

Does any one have tips for adjusting the servos with MR1 motors? I'll call PP in the morning now that the weekend has passed. I just want to get this finished before my time on the lake is up.

 

[CFD3Captain]

I can't be for certain @JetPowered but I am betting the process for adjusting the linkages/ servo is almost the same. Our potentiometers work just like your mechanical linkage on the throttle body EXCEPT it sends the "electronic" signal to the ECU rather than opening and closing the TB.

 

[scokill]

Tricks for calibrating the servos? Following the PP instructions, I statically adjusted the servos the take the slack out. When power is applied and it goes thru the self calibration, it pulls the cable enough to partially open the butterfly valves in the intake. So I re adjust the cables to prevent this but then then servos are maxed out and hit the limit.

The servos pull the slack automatically upon turning on ignition. There should be no need to statically adjust the servos. The servo pulls the linkage on the throttle plate all the way back as tight as it will go. Do this test. With boat off both keys in off position, push both throttles forward 3/4th. Go back to the engines and turn servo knob to let out slack....the throttle pivot bracket should move toward the back of the boat giving less throttle by throttle spring pulling throttle back automatically. If it doesn't move freely you have an issue. Tighten the knob and it should pull the pivot bracket back and it should pull throttle back toward bow giving more throttle.

Nothing can happen in neutral other than tightening the servos as far as they will go.

I'd be happy to take any pictures for you. FYI. You have to have the cables routed correctly, and the pivot bracket needs to be able to operate freely. I had to loosen then screw at the base of the pivot table to work correctly. I also added a return spring to give faster response.

 

[sysinu]

I talked to PP also (really nice guy) about throttle linkage suggestions and he suggested that if you don't have enough play in your throttle lines that you can flip the brass adaptor 180 degrees and give yourself quite a bit more freedom. I feel dumb for not realizing that, it's obvious to me now. figured I would comment on this in case anyone else runs into a similar issue.

 

[sstegh]

@sysinu, thank you for posting! I'll be installing soon and your info will be very helpful.

 

[CFD3Captain]

I talked to PP also (really nice guy) about throttle linkage suggestions and he suggested that if you don't have enough play in your throttle lines that you can flip the brass adaptor 180 degrees and give yourself quite a bit more freedom. I feel dumb for not realizing that, it's obvious to me now. figured I would comment on this in case anyone else runs into a similar issue.

I was looking at that myself yesterday during my install but wasn't sure about it. I tried spinning it around but I think you have to remove the screw and flip which I wasn't sure about doing LOL. Great info in here!

 

[soggyshoes]

All this is very interesting and I am sure will really be helpful when I install mine. Please keep the info coming!
Thanks.

 

[jcyamaharider]

I couldn't wait any longer. I had to atleast put the gauge in.

 

[Gumbeaux]

Another question... what are you guys doing to help the two tac's not continuously error now that the old speedometer isn't hooked up? Can we just use that plug for the old GPS elsewhere or should I continue to have my old speedometer plugged in and zip tied to the wires behind my dash?

I am curious about this also...don't like the idea of the tachs showing a continuous error (and the accusations from my wife that I hacked our boat). that would be annoying.

 

[scokill]

I couldn't wait any longer. I had to atleast put the gauge in.

View attachment 20269

Looks exactly like my dash with PP and same GPS/fishfinder in same location

 

[Addicted]

I am curious about this also...don't like the idea of the tachs showing a continuous error (and the accusations from my wife that I hacked our boat). that would be annoying.

I installed per the instructions and do not have any errors. Must be an issue with newer than 2012 boats.

 

[sstegh]

So, @jcyamaharider and I install Perfect Pass on our boats yesterday. I haven't had it in the water yet but running on a hose in the driveway it didn't complain about the original spedometer missing, that was good. The only issue I've had is power. I can't seem to find a switched power source, in other words the only 12v power I could find is always on (while the main battery switch is on). I would like it to power on with the ignition and turn off when the ignition is off. The instructions are kind of contradictory but they do mention not to use power from the ignition because it somehow disables no-wake mode on the starboard engine. Any suggestions?

 

[Master-Spud]

I pulled power from multi fuction tach's... This give me power only when switched on. I still haven't tried no wake mode (still ice on my lakes) but I know a couple of us on here have tied in there and no one has reported back that it's an issue.

 

[CFD3Captain]

Single engine MUST be different because I swear my instructions said DO tap and pull the power from ignition LOL. Mine seems to be fine. Haven't started or ran on the hose yet, but soon Again, with only one engine to deal with I am assuming that is why it is ok. I don't understand that though, you are only piggy backing the power from the switched ignition. Not changing anything