The Perfect Pass Thread

[sysinu]

So it sounds like I have an unassociated issue to PP install w/ my GPS. I'll put her on a lake with full power to the batteries end of this week and see if the comm error goes away. Otherwise, I'll get everything else that I want done before my first big trip at the lake and drop her off at the dealer.

Thanks everyone for commenting on the Pre/Post install status of their tac's

 

[jcyamaharider]

[USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP] what RPM's to adjust to on the hose. I am thinking 1300 -1500

 

[jcyamaharider]

I have idle at 1600 and no wake at 2250 right now sounded about normal.

 

[subysti]

Isn't the [USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP] supposed to be used for emergency on the water help issues?

 

[JC6275]

Isn't the [USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP] supposed to be used for emergency on the water help issues?

Yeah, as far as I know..

 

[Gym]

My thoughts exactly. I've been getting tagged thinking one of our southern brethren were in trouble. We may need to restate the use of the "AT HELP" for the benefit of our new members. Glad everybody is ok though.

 

[Scottintexas]

from the owner's manual
NOTE: The helm switches will not work
if the battery switch in the battery com-
partment is turned to the off position.
See page 4-3 for more information.
No Wake Mode
The No-Wake Mode System is useful
for operating the boat at a steady
speed with a minimal wake. This is
especially convienient when traveling in
harbors, channels, or other areas post-
ed with low speed limits as "no-wake
zones."
No-Wake Mode can be engaged when
the throttles are at idle speed in
Forward, Neutral, or Reverse. Engine
speed will be set at 2,400 rpm for con-
venient, no-wake maneuvering

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
from my maintenance manual, it just says "trolling speed"

 

[jcyamaharider]

I am not sorry for the help post. Thanks to @Scottintexas that gave me the info I needed.

I will state this, it isn't often that I need immediate help in the boat ( that was the first time ) and for all of those times that I have helped others out, you guys could not have just gave me the answer instead of creating a different topic? Some users that would have had the answer to my problem may not look at this thread or I may not know who to tag for the answer, and the help feature would tag them, Also I was in need of immediate help. I was in the boat with motors running and no source to find the answer to my problem immediately. Who says you HAVE to be in the water. If I was in the water then I would have asked the same question, then I wouldn't have been shunned.....

 

[jcyamaharider]

On another note I had to make the same throttle cable loop to my starboard engine that Julian did to his boat to keep it from binding. Worked like a champ after that.

 

[scokill]

[USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP] what RPM's to adjust to on the hose. I am thinking 1300 -1500

I'm just curious why you would need to adjust RPMs with perfect pass install?? PP shouldn't impact idle or No wake RPMs on our models.

 

[jcyamaharider]

I'm just curious why you would need to adjust RPMs with perfect pass install?? PP shouldn't impact idle or No wake RPMs on our models.

Why wouldn't it? We take off the throttle stop ( closed position ) on the engine to check and make sure the butterflies are fully closed and open and we have to disconnect the main throttle linkage and put it on their bracket. I know for sure I moved the nuts that lock the linkage onto the bracket. I also noticed a 200 rpm difference between motors when testing on the water. I want them dead even +/- 50 rpm's. There is a fine amount of adjustment that you can do on the bracket itself. it isn't moving the RPMS by a ton but you can adjust a little, and that is all I am doing.

 

[scokill]

Why wouldn't it? We take off the throttle stop ( closed position ) on the engine to check and make sure the butterflies are fully closed and open and we have to disconnect the main throttle linkage and put it on their bracket. I know for sure I moved the nuts that lock the linkage onto the bracket. I also noticed a 200 rpm difference between motors when testing on the water. I want them dead even +/- 50 rpm's. There is a fine amount of adjustment that you can do on the bracket itself. it isn't moving the RPMS by a ton but you can adjust a little, and that is all I am doing.

The short cable provided by PP that joins to the existing throttle cable via the split ring shouldn't impact RPM at idle as that is the idler set screw to my recollection. If there is that much tension in the cable at idle where you have to adjust the nuts then something isn't like my installation. Now adjusting the nuts either at engine throttle bracket, or the bracket on the PP plate will allow you to have you engines sync'd at speed. I carry around a the right size wrenches in the boat to do that adjustment on the water as it drives me crazy, but it shouldn't impact idle as the throttle spring on the intake should pull the throttle back to the set screw when throttles aren't engaged.

I'm assuming your model is the same as mine.

Here is photo

 

[jcyamaharider]

Yep I agree and that is what I am tuning, engines at speed. 2 10 mm wrenches on hand for atleast half the season. Lol

Idle was easy after I put the brackets back on.

 

[mrmeaniemeateaterman]

Anyone have any picture of how they configured the servos in a newer model Ar210 or SX210? I'm at a mental block with the Port side. Every way I configure it seems like it put too much of a kink in one or both of the cables. Maybe looking at it again in the morning with rested eyes will be all I will need.

I will say that I will give any of you props if you did this by yourself. I have a 9 year old willing to crawl into tight places, otherwise I don't know how it could be done.

Also I am going to Lowes to buy a right angle drill. Been wanting one, this project necessitates it.

 

[sstegh]

Anyone have any picture of how they configured the servos in a newer model Ar210 or SX210? I'm at a mental block with the Port side. Every way I configure it seems like it put too much of a kink in one or both of the cables. Maybe looking at it again in the morning with rested eyes will be all I will need.

I will say that I will give any of you props if you did this by yourself. I have a 9 year old willing to crawl into tight places, otherwise I don't know how it could be done.

Also I am going to Lowes to buy a right angle drill. Been wanting one, this project necessitates it.

I hear ya! If not for @jcyamaharider's help and his right angle drill mine might not have gotten done. I'm getting the boat out tomorrow and I'll snap so pictures for you then.

 

[sstegh]

@mrmeaniemeateaterman

Starboard side is kinda hard to see. You have to remove the air filter box to install it.


Port side below.

 

[mrmeaniemeateaterman]

Thanks. Here's what I ended up doing. Didn't want to take air boxes off in case I had any problems with install & had to adjust throttle cables while engines running. Overall wasn't too bad. I ended up pulling power & ground off the purple & black wires on port side tach. Obviously only works if the port side engine is running. So far it passed the water hose test and had no errors & idle/ throttle control doesn't seem effected. But I will say I made a point of feeling the cable tension prior to removing cables and made sure it was adjusted back accordingly (with the servo cord wrapped tight.) My only question is how did you guys mount control box under dash? Or did you just let it rest on floor without being screwed down? Also I ran the grey servo cable back along transom side of the engines vs bringing it around the bow side of the engines. I kept it up high & ziptied it up. I see no one else did it this way but I assume it doesn't matter? If you guys see any glaring problems please let me know.

 

[jawsf16]

@mrmeaniemeateaterman I used two sided heavy duty tape to mount the control module under the dash. Hasn't even wiggled...

Cable routing is fine either way. Just different way to skin the cat. I ran mine right next to some speaker wire I had already done.

 

[sstegh]

I ended up pulling power & ground off the purple & black wires on port side tach

How did you decide to use that wire? I haven't found a 12 volt wire that will turn off when the tach does. I don't really want to pierce the insulation with the tester on every wire back there to find one, is there a better way?

 

[sysinu]

I wired off ignition power and I don't have the problems people are talking about with no wake mode. Tested it a few times now and every time the same result.