The Perfect Pass Thread

[Master-Spud]

I did the same as @jawsf16 and is also working fine now, only turns on when engine running. Can't test wake mode yet, but assume it should be fine as we didn't tie into the ignition wire which they say creates the problem.

 

[sstegh]

Thanks guys. I'm planning to get the boat out of storage this weekend if the weather holds up. I'll be able to take a look at the wire colors then to see if the match up to the instructions from perfect pass.

 

[sysinu]

Lol, no but that would be funny.. I have the same insert, but the two people that had problems have 2010 or newer models with the same GPS speedometers we have, I assume they had the insert included in the instructions, but you know what assuming gets you. I take it yours powers up as expected? (I hope)

Wow... I must have typed what I was thinking and not what I meant! I meant that there was no mention of no wake mode in the insert. I haven't even put in my batteries yet... sadly that was on my list for Friday but work got in the way. Next weekend I hope to take her out on the water and get everything field tested. I'll bring a few electrical tools and connectors with me just in case.

 

[Gumbeaux]

OK, that's two people that have had problems using power from the original speedometer. I can run power to a fuse box under the helm but I can't decide how to keep PP from being powered on all the time. I could run it to a switch but there has to be a better way. I need some ideas from people smarter than I am.

As far as switched power, I think once you get a few accessories you need some sort of fuse block that has a switched power option.
Here is an awesome one, controllable via iphone http://www.motobrain.net/the-motobrain-pdu/

But there are much cheaper options...

I plan on just following the specific instructions that came with the one page supplement in my instruction manual.

 

[JetPowered]

I've been derelict in my duty of finishing my install. Fortunately everything mounts to the engine and not firewalls, so it sounds like installation is easier for the 230 family.

For the power problem you guys are having, would having a simple solid state relay fix your problems? Pull switch power for the trigger and pull non switched 12V from anything else. I bet most relays will trigger even at 8-10 volts.

 

[jcyamaharider]

As far as switched power, I think once you get a few accessories you need some sort of fuse block that has a switched power option.
Here is an awesome one, controllable via iphone http://www.motobrain.net/the-motobrain-pdu/

But there are much cheaper options...

I plan on just following the specific instructions that came with the one page supplement in my instruction manual.

Holy Crap $340!!!! I just did that for 60 bucks, but I might have had 340 dollars worth of head aches....lol

 

[Julian]

I just put in a white Blue Sea 4 gang switch.....like this (only white)

http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?mfgno=4314&pnumber=BS4314&mfg=BLUE SEA SYSTEMS&desc=Weather Deck Water Resistant Fuse Panel 4 Position

Can't vouch for this store....

This little connector is also a gem I learned from our crew here!

 

[Addicted]

To power mine, I tied into a switched power wire on the back side of my key switch. I believe it was yellow (double check with a meter). Perfect Pass only powers on when the key is turned on, and no wake mode works as always. 2 full seasons with no issues at all.

I must have been lucky. My system took a couple hours to install and was very easy. I did spend quite a bit of time on the water adjusting my throttle cables though. I remember that being an annoying task. But once dialed in, I have not had to touch it.

 

[jawsf16]

To power mine, I tied into a switched power wire on the back side of my key switch. I believe it was yellow (double check with a meter). Perfect Pass only powers on when the key is turned on, and no wake mode works as always. 2 full seasons with no issues at all.

I must have been lucky. My system took a couple hours to install and was very easy. I did spend quite a bit of time on the water adjusting my throttle cables though. I remember that being an annoying task. But once dialed in, I have not had to touch it.

Interesting... Which ignition did you use?

 

[Addicted]

I used the yellow wire with red stripe, coming out of the left switch. I removed the clip from the back of the switch to give better access, but it was still a bit awkward for my fat fingers.

 

[sysinu]

I did spend quite a bit of time on the water adjusting my throttle cables though. I remember that being an annoying task. But once dialed in, I have not had to touch it.

Isn't the cable adjustment made with the knob that they give you? Since there is nothing in the manual about this (and I was wondering where it is best to put the cables) I was very curious to what is "normal".

I ended up with both of my brass connectors about 2/3 in the slotted groove that is cut out when the boat is in neutral. I figured it would want to try to speed up more than slow down which is why I gave the 2/3 of the slotted groove for speedup as opposed to slow down. (I am traveling and don't have my manual in front of me to reference, which is why I am using completely non-technical terms, apologies).

 

[Addicted]

No, the adjustment was more than the black knob. I believe it was the slack in the cable that needed to be adjusted (the factory threaded adjuster). I wish I could be more specific, but it has been a few years. I remember having issues with the RPM of each motor being very far off after I installed Perfect Pass. I believe it was a matter of making small adjustments to one side until dialed in.

Again, I wish I could offer more detail. I do remember reaching out to Perfect Pass for direction, and they were extremely helpful. Their customer service is fantastic.

 

[JetPowered]

Decided to only do the starboard engine cable until I get to the lake and can sort it out. This should give me a baseline for my throttle adjustment. The throttle was WAY off when I started it and it almost immediately revved to 4K rpms.

Wiring was easy and is done. Pulled power from the purple and black wire for 12V positive that feeds the depth sender. Pulled ground from the removed speedo light with was also common ground with the depth sender.

Servos are mounted to the exhaust water jacket per instructions. I don't love this method.

 

[JetPowered]

OK, most important.

Once you disconnect the speedo, you need to block the pressure line from the pitot tube.

If you don't water will squirt everywhere.

The good news is the Perfect Pass is a great speedo. I still haven't hooked up the servos for throttle control. I was able to almost perfectly adjust the throttle cable in the driveway last night. The difference between engines is only about 300 RPM on the water.

 

[sysinu]

So... I am now finding out what you guys are all talking about w/ the throttle linkage cables.

When you trigger on power but not turn over the PP takes the actuator and pulls all the free line in (effectively throttling to its maximum level of control). This is why you have to adjust for minimum idle based on PP's maximum, this is obvious to me now.

Now the next problem. With the cables I have, if I take all of the tension out of both of the cables (effectively take the first tensioner and set it to it's inner most thread), I still need more cable length to hit my needed idle. So I'm guessing there is another adjustment on the other side of the cable? I worry that it's in the throttle assembly itself (yuck)! Anyone have any pointers on this? I need to "give myself about 1.5cm more cable to the brass fitting in PP" and I'm already at my maximum length by adjusting one of the ends.

 

[sysinu]

Another question... what are you guys doing to help the two tac's not continuously error now that the old speedometer isn't hooked up? Can we just use that plug for the old GPS elsewhere or should I continue to have my old speedometer plugged in and zip tied to the wires behind my dash?

 

[jawsf16]

@sysinu Did you adjust at the potentiometer too?

 

[sysinu]

You mean adjust the lock nuts at the potentiometer? If so, yes. The "new" cable is as far as it will go into the black bracket of the PP.

 

[sysinu]

SO... I have good news, I was able to figure my situation out. The trick is to force a slight compressed bend into the throttle cable going from PP to the potentiometer. While my cable did not have any "extra room" for it to seat into the black box at the top of the PP unit, apparently the slight bend gave me about 2cm of throttle cable back. Both of my adjusters (at the copper fitting on PP and at the potentiometer) are about at their "fully extended" position, but the idle is good based on looking at the potentiometer. Need to put it on a hose and validate, but it looks pretty good now.

 

[jawsf16]

Nice. I was thinking about your problem today and I thought maybe you needed more slack there. You beat me to it. Glad you found it!!