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Todays dilemma out on the water.....

Are you guys making sure they are set as “unlocked” and not “locked” when inserting them? If you look on the plugs you need to set it to unlock then push in place then turn to locked turning it clockwise. If you try to set them in “locked” they are super tight and need some muscle and then are not fully seated. You can force them in and they feel locked and tight but are not. If properly unlocked then turn easy like with 2 fingers.

I discovered the “lock” and “unlock” positions this weekend myself as I was having trouble with the plugs going back in.... turned to unlock and went in like butter.... I would go out and take a picture right now ifI could to show them.

 
My 2017 was like that. The 252 is a much tighter tolerance.

Check the top band clamp around the cleanout plug hole. I'm not sure what your cleanout hatch looks like, if you can even get a good look through there at the nut. They may have tightened it JUST enough to start to oval out the hole, making it difficult to get the plugs in. I have many scars on the inside of my cleanout plug access hole, and noticed this past weekend that they went in SUPER nice now that I had removed the band clamps to pull the cleanout tray. I ended up buying T-bolt band clamps as well, but really, just a bit looser on the old band clamps would have been enough.
 
Are you guys making sure they are set as “unlocked” and not “locked” when inserting them? If you look on the plugs you need to set it to unlock then push in place then turn to locked turning it clockwise. If you try to set them in “locked” they are super tight and need some muscle and then are not fully seated. You can force them in and they feel locked and tight but are not. If properly unlocked then turn easy like with 2 fingers.

I discovered the “lock” and “unlock” positions this weekend myself as I was having trouble with the plugs going back in.... turned to unlock and went in like butter.... I would go out and take a picture right now ifI could to show them.
ooooo thats interesting...ill have to look. Nice find. Mine def werent 2 finger easy to "lock"
 
ooooo thats interesting...ill have to look. Nice find. Mine def werent 2 finger easy to "lock"

Watch my video. Boat is on the trailer, I'm standing behind it, leaning over, with ZERO leverage. They SHOULD go in as easy as shown.
 
oooo yeah my thru hull is fine...i sealed that, im talking about my anchor locker hinge. Its loose.

The hinge, or the latch?

It might not be loose, it might be poorly installed. Mine was juuuuuuuuuust a hair too far away, and over time, it would work itself loose and start to clatter more and more as time went on. 3-4 washers between the metal latch and the hull, and all was fixed. If it's the latch fitting on the anchor hatch, some boogers or rubber cement on the bolts that screw into the hatch will give you enough friction for it to stop coming out. Loctite won't help in the material used for the anchor hatch.
 
The hinge, or the latch?

It might not be loose, it might be poorly installed. Mine was juuuuuuuuuust a hair too far away, and over time, it would work itself loose and start to clatter more and more as time went on. 3-4 washers between the metal latch and the hull, and all was fixed. If it's the latch fitting on the anchor hatch, some boogers or rubber cement on the bolts that screw into the hatch will give you enough friction for it to stop coming out. Loctite won't help in the material used for the anchor hatch.
hinge screws are blown out. Whoever installed either overtightened or the pilot hole was too big.
 
Ever find a fix for the clock? Mine is now doing the exact same as yours. 0 on 12hr and the 24hr works.

Found an issue with my bilge pump.. the fuse by the battery switches keeps blowing. Little 4amp fuse. Can't even put a new one in without it popping. Then tried 5amp and then 7.5amp... they pop as soon as I put it in.
 
Ever find a fix for the clock? Mine is now doing the exact same as yours. 0 on 12hr and the 24hr works.

Found an issue with my bilge pump.. the fuse by the battery switches keeps blowing. Little 4amp fuse. Can't even put a new one in without it popping. Then tried 5amp and then 7.5amp... they pop as soon as I put it in.
Check all the wiring, there is a short somewhere, that’s why they pop immediately.
 
Ever find a fix for the clock? Mine is now doing the exact same as yours. 0 on 12hr and the 24hr works.

Found an issue with my bilge pump.. the fuse by the battery switches keeps blowing. Little 4amp fuse. Can't even put a new one in without it popping. Then tried 5amp and then 7.5amp... they pop as soon as I put it in.
no but it has something to do if your timezone is a negative from gmt time. My fix is setting mine to 8 vs -5 Im east coast so we are -5 gmt. So im not 12hrs off, but the boat doesnt output am or pm...so this works for me until they get a update for the connext.
 
Ever find a fix for the clock? Mine is now doing the exact same as yours. 0 on 12hr and the 24hr works.

Found an issue with my bilge pump.. the fuse by the battery switches keeps blowing. Little 4amp fuse. Can't even put a new one in without it popping. Then tried 5amp and then 7.5amp... they pop as soon as I put it in.

So I had the same problem when I tried to replace my blown 4A fuse. After the fourth one I think I turned the switches for the batteries and was able to get the fuse put in without it blowing. I’m not sure if that helped or if the 5 time was just lucky :)

But In my head I was thinking the 4A fuse is hardwired to the batteries through the switch. Maybe by having the switches on it cut the power to that fuse? But who know I’m not very knowledgeable with electric stuff.
 
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