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Transducer location 210 FSH

Can I also get a picture of the proper transducer location I have a Helex 9 with side imaging I am wanting to install with 1 transducer on my 210 fsh
 
This is where dealer placed mine. Have not used boat yet. Concerned they placed it wrong and it would interfere with steering. Would appreciate any comments. Questioned dealer Service Manager but have not heard back yet.
 

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You would have to check it out. I think that is a horrible spot with the steering ruder.
 
Here is a link to video where others have installed.
Dealer got back to me and was very good. Said they will move it if I want and do gel coat as their fix. They said if installed on plate could be risk of damaging when trailering. They said where they put it with the bracket that has some give, should not rub the rudder and be ok. Installed same on similar boats. Can move it now but boat would held for a while or do at end of season. Have not used boat yet. Will go to storage lot see if it rubs. Ice is getting off lakes now.
 

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It is the possible rubbing as well as the possible turbulence and force right there between where it is mounted and the rudder. No risk installing it on the plate as long as it is done correctly. Mine is on the ride plate as well as many other members put it there. No issues. If you are comfortable leave it. If not, then have them move it.
 
Dealer now says "technician suspects we will have to remove the jet plate in order to drill the holes for the transducer so that the drill does not “jump”. As you can see in the picture you sent of your boat where the wire connects to the transducer the “plug” is quite wide so in order to have the transducer sit flush on the plate we will need to drill a fairly large hole (likely about 2”)."

Did any of you have to do this?
 

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No. You do not have to remove the ride plate. no large holes in ride plate. Custom mount.


Look at my second post. That is how I did it. I use zip ties to secure wire to ride plate. Not sure what they are talking about. Others have used different custom mounting brackets.

Here is pic fully completed.


I also moved mine transducer a bit higher a few times so it is not as low as I was experimenting with side scan. Same mounting spot.

Search through the forums here there are several custom mounts people did on their own that work great as well.
 
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No. You do not have to remove the ride plate. no large holes in ride plate. Custom mount.


Look at my second post. That is how I did it. I use zip ties to secure wire to ride plate. Not sure what they are talking about. Others have used different custom mounting brackets.

Here is pic fully completed.


I also moved mine transducer a bit higher a few times so it is not as low as I was experimenting with side scan. Same mounting spot.

Search through the forums here there are several custom mounts people did on their own that work great as well.
I mounted mine EXACTLY like @HangOutdoors (thanks, man!) on my ’22 210 FSH, and in my first five hours of use it has been flawless.
 
I was thinking about making a plastic mold of the keel and leaving a roughly 3" (W) x 9" (L) flat spot on the base of the moldfor mounting, and then gluing my transducer to the bottom of the mold, which in turn is glued to the bottom of the keel. Should be zero sidescan interference. It's crazy, I know, so I don't know if I'll actually do it. But does anyone see anything wrong with it? Other than having to use a permanent glue, and also running the risk of it breaking off the bottom of the boat?
 
I was thinking about making a plastic mold of the keel and leaving a roughly 3" (W) x 9" (L) flat spot on the base of the moldfor mounting, and then gluing my transducer to the bottom of the mold, which in turn is glued to the bottom of the keel. Should be zero sidescan interference. It's crazy, I know, so I don't know if I'll actually do it. But does anyone see anything wrong with it? Other than having to use a permanent glue, and also running the risk of it breaking off the bottom of the boat?

I probably wouldn't do that, could come lose and smash up your gel coat. Drilling holes in the ride plate or the gel coat is no big deal.

Also I have Zero interference with side scan
 
I probably wouldn't do that, could come lose and smash up your gel coat. Drilling holes in the ride plate or the gel coat is no big deal.

Also I have Zero interference with side scan

Yeah I probably wont try it. Silicone mold & epoxy are freaking expensive. I just made an epoxy mold to support my trolling motor quick release mount off the front of the boat. I wanted something that fit the contours of the boat perfectly, so I made a cast and mold with plaster of paris and then filled w/ epoxy.
 
What do you think about mounting the transducer in the bilge using silicone to get a good bond with the hull? I would put a tube under the transducer to allow the bilge to drain past.
The positives are the transducer is protected from impact, is mounted on the centerline, no holes through the hull.
 
an air tube under the transducer would wreck your signal. even a little bit of bubbles can do that!

Thru hull or in hulls would work, but you don't get side scan with those without two transducers.
 
What do you think about mounting the transducer in the bilge using silicone to get a good bond with the hull? I would put a tube under the transducer to allow the bilge to drain past.
The positives are the transducer is protected from impact, is mounted on the centerline, no holes through the hull.
Transducer mount is designed to swing up if impacts something. The best performance is outside
 
Already had my 3-in-1 transducer the right side, but had to move it to install the smart tabs. Relocated to the right ride plate to the right of the rotating speedometer. Used just the existing mount. Works at all speeds now and works with downscan and side scan to….and the bonus is that it’s higher than the keel.
 

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