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What did you do to your boat today?

tdonoughue

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Looks like you are breaking through the gelcoat.

Stop!

Take a break. Read some comments here. I don't know the answer, but I fear you are doing damage trying to get this. Hold up, make a plan and re-attack.
 

Ronnie

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Another way to do it is to spray some goo gone or goof off on it, let it sit a minute and scrape it off with a razor blade. If you don’t want to use any chemicals heat it up with a hair dryer instead.
 

bronze_10

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Looks like you are breaking through the gelcoat.

Stop!

Take a break. Read some comments here. I don't know the answer, but I fear you are doing damage trying to get this. Hold up, make a plan and re-attack.
I am using goo gone.. it is recommended here. How can that be breaking through the gel coat?
 

zipper

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As @haknslash said above use acetone. That is what I used when I did mine, for adhesive residue removal before I found this. Fawcett Boat Supplies This stuff works great, better than acetone, I keep a can around.

20190502_143506.jpg

20190502_150517.jpg
 
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zipper

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Looks like you are breaking through the gelcoat.

Stop!

Take a break. Read some comments here. I don't know the answer, but I fear you are doing damage trying to get this. Hold up, make a plan and re-attack.
I think it is the adhesive residue smearing, not being removed which may resemble gelcoat damage. But DAMM, I dont see any oxidation on that red topside. Looks great for an 08 NC boat.
 

Babin Farms

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Soften the glue with your choice of remover and get a razor scraper with the plastic blades. Once it’s softened up scrape a majority of the glue off before trying to wipe the rest off with a rag. I’ve stripped down squad cars for years and taking decals off of vehicles is a lot harder than taking these decals off of boats, just take your time and try a few different things and find what works best for you. You got this:winkingthumbsup"
 

bronze_10

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I think it is the adhesive residue smearing, not being removed which may resemble gelcoat damage. But DAMM, I dont see any oxidation on that red topside. Looks great for an 08 NC boat.
20200407_190543.jpg
It's worse in the front. I hop to have it looking like yours a @Babin Farms in a few days.. gonna try the wet sanding.
 
Last edited:

zipper

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View attachment 115574
It's worse in the front. I hop to have it looking like yours a @Babin Farms in a few days.. gonna try the wet sanding.
That is not too bad, did not see it in the other photo. I would try a rotary buffer with a wool pad and some 3m heavy cut oxidation compound first, or even a less agressive D/A with a wool pad in a test area before I wet sand the red gelcoat. I think yours will clean up with a buffer. And if you are not happy, then wet sand.
 

ZippyBoater

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View attachment 115574
It's worse in the front. I hop to have it looking like yours a @Babin Farms in a few days.. gonna try the wet sanding.
Don't do the wet sanding. It will cause more damage than careful use of acetone. I used acetone on mine and it worked like a champ. A little rubbing compound and you can't tell there were stickers there.
 

tdonoughue

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I am using goo gone.. it is recommended here. How can that be breaking through the gel coat?
I think it is the adhesive residue smearing, not being removed which may resemble gelcoat damage. But DAMM, I dont see any oxidation on that red topside. Looks great for an 08 NC boat.
Yes, it is smearing. Sorry--looked like breakthrough. My bad. Carry on. It's looking good. I don't think you will need extreme measures from here.
 

PEARCE

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New spark plugs today.
15865539275042657583575089628017.jpg
15865539732531354471754801347774.jpg
 

Babin Farms

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Installed tow/flush valves. 5/8 hose, 1/2” valves and barbed fittings. Put them under the clean out hatch so I can get to them from the access ports. Looped the new hose around the plug port and back down to the intake, zip tied the loops to other hoses so they don’t bounce around. Valves are right under the access port. Tightened all hose clamps while everything was opened & By the looks of the rest of the factory clamps I’ll be replacing all of them after this season.

B6F1BF35-AA37-477F-B7F3-43660A063F62.jpegF3832CDB-7EA6-4141-AA88-36AFD6A213CC.jpeg90CC8AC2-5DBD-4B8C-9D23-BFC4A122B77A.jpegE053FEFB-5EDC-497D-8C34-82CC30AE8C92.jpegB9657820-175F-42BF-921E-093431A62CFD.jpegAE2CDE5A-A2B1-4DA5-A22C-60EF5F4A9008.jpeg
 

tdonoughue

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Nice job on the valves. I like how easy you have them to access and that they are plastic. And, yep, time to do some PM on the rest of those clamps...

One small note: I don't leave my plugs in like that when I am not on the water. I pull them and put them on the the deck (and even if making repairs, etc., I put them cock-eyed in the hole there. Too many stories of people with their plugs stuck...
 

haknslash

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Nice job with the tow valves! I'm not sure I would wait until next season to replace those clamps with stainless steel clamps. You don't want those cheap things ruining your day on the water.
 
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waternutt

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I was also working on prepping my swim deck for SeaDek. Is this clean enough?

IMG_4092.jpg

My thoughts are no. I have been using some Goo Gone and eraser wheel, but I still have residual stuff deep in the non-skid and really stubborn stuff along the edges. I am thinking about buying some different adhesive remover and some plastic scrapers.

Also, any thoughts on removing these rub marks? Acetone does nothing to them.

IMG_2639.jpg
 

Dean P

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Added a thru-hull plug for my battery charger.

Before
View attachment 115702

Moment of truth
View attachment 115703

Ok, that part is done.
View attachment 115704

All done.
View attachment 115705

One question I did have...do you think this would require 5200 since it has the rubber gasket on the back?
I did not but mine was on the port side above the rub rail. Mine could only get wet when it rains. Your placement could get wet every time you get off plane. The surface you mounted to looks curved. It would be a good idea but don't think you need 5200. Marine silicone caulk should be fine.
 
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