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What did you do to your boat today?

(I make it a rule that everyone viewing my boat for aesthetics must be back at least 10 feet)
 
1st. Everyone says the 2nd round or final round of sanding is all about feel.. its goal is to get out the scratches from the more agressive sand paper. We sanded untill it was smooth but we were just learning the feel of the paper when we were reaching the end of the job. it's more of a glide than anything else. Hard to put into words.. so if u stand right and get the reflection just right u can see some sand paper marks... we should have sanded more with the 2000 grit in some spots.

2nd... clean buff and whool pads are essential! Get two sets so u can wash one and let dry and use the other the flowing day. My boat is red and it filled the whool pad pretty quick. Dont push it with a dirty pad.

3rd pay close attention to the step in the hull in the side. It's easy to miss and then u will have to go back over it later.

4th. Park the boat AWAY from the house so u can actually reach all of the hull. ( dont ask!)

5th. Be ready to be sore. Each section consisted of, 1000 grit wet sand, 2000 grit wet sand, whool cutting compound, cleaner wax, and sealant ! U will be sore! (This is after I scrapped the graphics decal off the side of the boat with my thumb nails and then went back to remove the adhesive). My advice... start with the bow while u dont hurt.... behing sore and using the polisher basically upside down!! No no no!!

6th. Dont put the stupid Painters tape on your boat to compair the before and after like the do on you tub. We did that the first spot and there is still a slight line

7th. We bough a few different sanding blocks... we found it was better to fold the sand paper in half and just use your hand. It seems to transfer more water to the hull from you bucket and it is easier to sand the wetter it is.

8th. Only keep the bottle near the boat of the stuff u r using. It's easy to grab the sealant bottle by accident when u need the cutting compound!

9th. Did I mention traps and rear delts yet? Cause damn!

10th. Take your time... if u get tired or are rushing to get done before dark u may be disappointed the next morning.

11th. Change your water often.. and add a small amount of dawn to the water. It helps clear the sandpaper when u get more water.

I'm sure there are more but those are right off the top of my head!
 
1st. Everyone says the 2nd round or final round of sanding is all about feel.. its goal is to get out the scratches from the more agressive sand paper. We sanded untill it was smooth but we were just learning the feel of the paper when we were reaching the end of the job. it's more of a glide than anything else. Hard to put into words.. so if u stand right and get the reflection just right u can see some sand paper marks... we should have sanded more with the 2000 grit in some spots.

2nd... clean buff and whool pads are essential! Get two sets so u can wash one and let dry and use the other the flowing day. My boat is red and it filled the whool pad pretty quick. Dont push it with a dirty pad.

3rd pay close attention to the step in the hull in the side. It's easy to miss and then u will have to go back over it later.

4th. Park the boat AWAY from the house so u can actually reach all of the hull. ( dont ask!)

5th. Be ready to be sore. Each section consisted of, 1000 grit wet sand, 2000 grit wet sand, whool cutting compound, cleaner wax, and sealant ! U will be sore! (This is after I scrapped the graphics decal off the side of the boat with my thumb nails and then went back to remove the adhesive). My advice... start with the bow while u dont hurt.... behing sore and using the polisher basically upside down!! No no no!!

6th. Dont put the stupid Painters tape on your boat to compair the before and after like the do on you tub. We did that the first spot and there is still a slight line

7th. We bough a few different sanding blocks... we found it was better to fold the sand paper in half and just use your hand. It seems to transfer more water to the hull from you bucket and it is easier to sand the wetter it is.

8th. Only keep the bottle near the boat of the stuff u r using. It's easy to grab the sealant bottle by accident when u need the cutting compound!

9th. Did I mention traps and rear delts yet? Cause damn!

10th. Take your time... if u get tired or are rushing to get done before dark u may be disappointed the next morning.

11th. Change your water often.. and add a small amount of dawn to the water. It helps clear the sandpaper when u get more water.

I'm sure there are more but those are right off the top of my head!


Glad to hear that you had good luck doing this. Keep us posted on how this holds up through the season, I will as well.
 
I'm interested in the sanding block comment. I found using the block was better (well, more when doing repairs--where I was taking down a high spot to even out the repair). You did not like the blocks for this application. So you wanted the paper to stick more... Interesting.

Thanks for the rundown!
 
I'm interested in the sanding block comment. I found using the block was better (well, more when doing repairs--where I was taking down a high spot to even out the repair). You did not like the blocks for this application. So you wanted the paper to stick more... Interesting.

Thanks for the rundown!
The paper when wet will just stick to the side of the boat...so all you have to do is move it. Plus you can get a whole lot more water to the boat per dip! Remember, your sanding the entire boat.. the block was ok but it seemed to go better with just the paper.
 
Lots of projects today.

Emailed the dealership to show him the bow damage from a 20 mile transport with the junk bow roller.
Replaced bulb tail lights with LEDs
Installed my painted trailer guides.
Hung the wakeboard rack.
Figured out the bimini
Installed battery tenders and charged the boat.

Questions:
Anyone have this battery box/cover in their boat? Debating taking it out.
Is my Bimini back together correctly? ?
 

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Installed my new color matching Thrust Vector X. Can’t wait to try them out.
 
I finished I installing a new sound system. It took an while to clean up all the cabling / wiring.

I also moved the ram mount that hold use with my iPad or iPhone.
 

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This upgrade will be done once I replace the cockpit 6.5” speakers (the woofer is blown on one but I had to order two so will replace both). I also ordered a kicker 10” grill with integrated LEDs hoping to fit it on my alpine sub woofer.
 
1st. Everyone says the 2nd round or final round of sanding is all about feel.. its goal is to get out the scratches from the more agressive sand paper. We sanded untill it was smooth but we were just learning the feel of the paper when we were reaching the end of the job. it's more of a glide than anything else. Hard to put into words.. so if u stand right and get the reflection just right u can see some sand paper marks... we should have sanded more with the 2000 grit in some spots.

2nd... clean buff and whool pads are essential! Get two sets so u can wash one and let dry and use the other the flowing day. My boat is red and it filled the whool pad pretty quick. Dont push it with a dirty pad.

3rd pay close attention to the step in the hull in the side. It's easy to miss and then u will have to go back over it later.

4th. Park the boat AWAY from the house so u can actually reach all of the hull. ( dont ask!)

5th. Be ready to be sore. Each section consisted of, 1000 grit wet sand, 2000 grit wet sand, whool cutting compound, cleaner wax, and sealant ! U will be sore! (This is after I scrapped the graphics decal off the side of the boat with my thumb nails and then went back to remove the adhesive). My advice... start with the bow while u dont hurt.... behing sore and using the polisher basically upside down!! No no no!!

6th. Dont put the stupid Painters tape on your boat to compair the before and after like the do on you tub. We did that the first spot and there is still a slight line

7th. We bough a few different sanding blocks... we found it was better to fold the sand paper in half and just use your hand. It seems to transfer more water to the hull from you bucket and it is easier to sand the wetter it is.

8th. Only keep the bottle near the boat of the stuff u r using. It's easy to grab the sealant bottle by accident when u need the cutting compound!

9th. Did I mention traps and rear delts yet? Cause damn!

10th. Take your time... if u get tired or are rushing to get done before dark u may be disappointed the next morning.

11th. Change your water often.. and add a small amount of dawn to the water. It helps clear the sandpaper when u get more water.

I'm sure there are more but those are right off the top of my head!

That's some really good pointers! Thanks for the feedback.
 
Oh, I thought he meant the red stripe from the tape...

<grin>
 
Oil change, trouble shoot bilge not working, clean the hull, treated the windshield, cleaned engine compartment, installed battery. Basically just getting ready for first outing.
 
Put two decals on it.
B8124A78-7C69-4672-9239-C6E01E6B8D93.jpegAC5E2178-7632-42C4-BCEA-9D7FD7402F5A.jpeg
 

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After reading most of this thread that's loaded with great tips and tricks! I made a couple of small additions to my new Yamaha 242X. I'm sure I'll do more stuff in the future. For the cargo net and the bottom of the porta-potty I used Industrial strength Velcro which seems to work ok so far.

Portable toilet

Tank drop in

Cargo Net

Bathroom caddy

Garbage can

Industrial strength Velcro

Small black garbage bags

Motion lights

Dual USB

Fabreze auto air freshener clip

New cooler bag instead of Iglo one the boat came with
 

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Found out my hatch for my clean out ports had a slight leak. So I pulled it off like I did on my old boat and sealed up the hatch, clean out port tubes, drain, and all the screw holes. If it still has a leak it sure isn't from there. 20200525_141257.jpg20200525_141300.jpg20200525_141302.jpg20200525_140317.jpg20200525_140312.jpg20200525_140306.jpg20200525_140304.jpg20200525_141307.jpg
 
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