DVSR help...

[FSH 210 Sport]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm pretty sure this is incorrect - the DVSR (from what I have read) is literally there to allow you to charge multiple batteries as one. Yes, a multi-bank charger will charge multiple batteries with the DVSR "on"...but only using one bank, because the DVSR makes it look like multiple batteries = a single battery, not multiples. You are correct in that both/all batteries are being charged, just not independently - downstream batteries will be charged AFTER the upstream batteries are full, since electrically, the DVSR is basically turning multiple batteries into a bigger "pool", if that makes sense to you.

i.e. you don't have: Battery 1 @ 100 aH - Battery 2 @ 100 aH - Battery 3 @ 100aH

You DO have: Big Battery 1 @ 300 aH (which is the combined capacity of the 3 batteries to fill, thanks to the DVSR), and it essentially fills that pool, which extends the recharge timing since you'd be using a single bank instead of the 2/3 potential from the charger

The DVSR is there to isolate the start battery when the engine isn’t running so you will always have a fully charged start battery. Once you start the engines and the voltage on the start battery comes up to 13.2 volts, a decent state of charge, the DVSR will close the switch combining all batteries so the house batteries will charge. It should be noted that the positives to the engines are landed on the start battery and not the house battery.

The greatest amount of charge will be flowing to the battery with the lowest voltage, aka potential difference, relative to its fully charged resting voltage.

Having said the above, I discovered this year that if the voltage on the house battery comes up to or exceeds 13.2 volts, the DVSR will close the switch. I found this out when I replaced the lead acid house battery with a LiFePO battery who’s resting voltage is 13.6 volts.

My solution was to intercept the DVSR red wire and provide voltage to the DVSR manually via a rocker switch on the dash. in my case it keeps the LiFePO battery from trying to “charge” my AGM start battery due to the potential difference when the DVSR closes the switch due to the LiFePO‘s 13.6 resting voltage. The secondary aspect is that it allows each battery to charge separately.

My MinnKota charger has a manual equalizing charger (in addition to the automatic light equalization charge), and this is pretty important to maintain optimal battery performance for a flooded lead acid battery, but an equalization charge has to be applied to each battery individually. An equalization charge makes sure that all the cells are balanced, and that the electrolyte gets stirred to eliminate stratification of the electrolyte. During boating season you should probably run a manual equalization charge once a month. When I still had my flooded lead acid batteries I was just lifting the ground for the DVSR when I ran an equalization charge.

 

[FredB32]

The DVSR is there to isolate the start battery when the engine isn’t running so you will always have a fully charged start battery. Once you start the engines and the voltage on the start battery comes up to 13.2 volts, a decent state of charge, the DVSR will close the switch combining all batteries so the house batteries will charge. It should be noted that the positives to the engines are landed on the start battery and not the house battery.

The greatest amount of charge will be flowing to the battery with the lowest voltage, aka potential difference, relative to its fully charged resting voltage.

Having said the above, I discovered this year that if the voltage on the house battery comes up to or exceeds 13.2 volts, the DVSR will close the switch. I found this out when I replaced the lead acid house battery with a LiFePO battery who’s resting voltage is 13.6 volts.

My solution was to intercept the DVSR red wire and provide voltage to the DVSR manually via a rocker switch on the dash. in my case it keeps the LiFePO battery from trying to “charge” my AGM start battery due to the potential difference when the DVSR closes the switch due to the LiFePO‘s 13.6 resting voltage. The secondary aspect is that it allows each battery to charge separately.

If I'm understanding this all and interpreting this all correctly (and there's zero guarantee of that), hooking the cut red loop wire to the DVSR input coming from the engine as in the diagram below should accomplish the "only on when engine is on" goal?

Cut at the blue X, cap the left side, run the red wire where the blue line indicates? From their diagram, it shows tying it into the positive coming from the engine...but that just goes to the Start Battery switch, so I imagine my blue line will accomplish the same thing...

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Correct!

Be sure and test which wire energizes the DVSR though… just to be sure. I thought I had it correct but when I tested it I was on the wrong side.. the hot can just be any hot that is energized when the ignition is on.

My plan is to do the same… just haven’t gotten around to it yet. And the way I have mine wired now, when the ignition hot comes on my back lit rocker switch will glow.

 

[FredB32]

Correct!

Be sure and test which wire energizes the DVSR though… just to be sure. I thought I had it correct but when I tested it I was on the wrong side.. the hot can just be any hot that is energized when the ignition is on.

My plan is to do the same… just haven’t gotten around to it yet. And the way I have mine wired now, when the ignition hot comes on my back lit rocker switch will glow.

Makes perfect sense...I'll bring my multimeter with me. I'd assume that I would have 0 voltage on the feeder side, as the battery side would be constantly energized? And it should go to +voltage with the engine switch on (does it need to be running?).

I did email the manufacturer as well, to see if they saw any concerns with my plan. I found out they're also about 50ish mins south of me, so if I don't get a quick response I'll make the drive and politely knock on their door for an answer!

 

[AZMark]

Makes perfect sense...I'll bring my multimeter with me. I'd assume that I would have 0 voltage on the feeder size, as the battery side would be constantly energized? And it should go to +voltage with the engine switch on (does it need to be running?).

I did email the manufacturer as well, to see if they saw any concerns with my plan. I found out they're also about 50ish mins south of me, so if I don't get a quick response I'll make the drive and politely knock on their door for an answer!

I have asked them and done what you’re planning and they said it’s fine.

Edit: I was looking for the thread but this is the thread, 2 pages back.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

No.

The red wire on the back of the DVSR is a operating voltage wire, so you will not see source voltage there. You will need to supply 12 volts or higher to the cut end of the red wire to supply operating voltage, then you must have 13.2 volts or higher on either the start or house battery to get the DVSR to operate and to test it.

 

[FredB32]

No.

The red wire on the back of the DVSR is a operating voltage wire, so you will not see source voltage there. You will need to supply 12 volts or higher to the cut end of the red wire to supply operating voltage, then you must have 13.2 volts or higher on either the start or house battery to get the DVSR to operate and to test it.

Sorry, that was probably confusing - I'd be looking at the yellow highlighted run of wire, which in theory should only be activated/charged when the engine is running? This is what would "turn on" the DVSR, vs. the red loop, which I'm assuming is just looped and taking power from the battery side of things, hence the notes in the manual about it having a slight constant draw, even with the boat off.

 

[AZMark]

Sorry, that was probably confusing - I'd be looking at the yellow highlighted run of wire, which in theory should only be activated/charged when the engine is running? This is what would "turn on" the DVSR, vs. the red loop, which I'm assuming is just looped and taking power from the battery side of things, hence the notes in the manual about it having a slight constant draw, even with the boat off.

View attachment 184929

View attachment 184930

That wire becomes hot from your battery switch, not necessarily the engine. Any time you have the battery switch set to on that wire will have power and your DVSR will be ready to engage & connect both batteries. If you find a way to run the engine with that switch off (you won’t) it might still work somehow but doesn’t really matter.

I have a picture of exactly what youre trying to do on this thread and can confirm it works.

 

[FredB32]

That wire becomes hot from your battery switch, not necessarily the engine. Any time you have the battery switch set to on that wire will have power and your DVSR will be ready to engage & connect both batteries. If you find a way to run the engine with that switch off (you won’t) it might still work somehow but doesn’t really matter.

I have a picture of exactly what youre trying to do on this thread and can confirm it works.

That makes sense...I guess the battery switch is manual, so closing the switch connects the starter battery TO the engine to supply it with starting voltage. Duh. I guess it makes some sense to think of the DVSR as an automatic "emergency parallel" switch (i.e. vs. the manual on there) to run both batteries in parallel for charging purposes. It's coming together slowly.

Is this the pic you're referencing? Did I draw the blue line in the correct configuration? It looks like the red loop comes out of the top right corner of the DVSR and you have it going to the switched pole on the manual switch (looks like for the house battery?).

 

[AZMark]

That makes sense...I guess the battery switch is manual, so closing the switch connects the starter battery TO the engine to supply it with starting voltage. Duh. I guess it makes some sense to think of the DVSR as an automatic "emergency parallel" switch (i.e. vs. the manual on there) to run both batteries in parallel for charging purposes. It's coming together slowly.

Is this the pic you're referencing? Did I draw the blue line in the correct configuration? It looks like the red loop comes out of the top right corner of the DVSR and you have it going to the switched pole on the manual switch (looks like for the house battery?).

View attachment 184934

You’re correct on the routing but it’s my start switch. I had the thing all flipped around.
I think the instructions specifically referenced cutting the side of the red loop closer to that red painted stud.

 

[FredB32]

You’re correct on the routing but it’s my start switch. I had the thing all flipped around.
I think the instructions specifically referenced cutting the side of the red loop closer to that red painted stud.

Okay, thinking through it more that makes more sense. Especially since on some boats (mine included) the house battery stays on, so attaching it to the Starting battery switch makes way more sense...otherwise while slipped you'd still have the same issues we're trying to avoid!

 

[tabbibus]

I added a switch to the dvsr ground wire. Accomplishes the same thing with less fussing

 

[212s]

I added a switch to the dvsr ground wire. Accomplishes the same thing with less fussing

It's only less fussing until you forget to flip the switch.
Then it's more cussing...

 

[AZMark]

It's only less fussing until you forget to flip the switch.
Then it's more cussing...

My thought as well. I know I’d forget at least a couple times a year.

 

[tabbibus]

Fair points. For me it's part of the routine now.

 

[leemo]

Anyone know why Yamaha doesn't do the DVSR/ Ignition Control Storage Mode (red wire mod) at the factory?

I dont see a downside to it.

 

[AZMark]

Anyone know why Yamaha doesn't do the DVSR/ Ignition Control Storage Mode (red wire mod) at the factory?

I dont see a downside to it.

Boats don’t come with onboard chargers and it takes time.

 

[FredB32]

My guess is most people don't want to be forced into buying a multi-channel charger, and the cheap/simple ones they buy work perfectly with the DVSR.

 

[lazergeek]

My guess is most people don't want to be forced into buying a multi-channel charger, and the cheap/simple ones they buy work perfectly with the DVSR.

And those people who did install the multi channel charger and didnt modify think they have a multi channel charger when in reality they dont.

 

[tabbibus]

And those people who did install the multi channel charger and didnt modify think they have a multi channel charger when in reality they dont.

And they will fight you about it if you call it out. lol.