Buying 2018 Yamaha SX190, need advice ( Now looking for AR/SX230)

[Beachbummer]

That was the good news... The bad news is that if the hose or end piece under water breaks, and you don't realize it quickly enough, it can sink the boat.

Many on the board have replaced the plastic piece with a stainless scupper to prevent the issue.

I am a proponent of 1-2 punch... Replace the scupper with stainless AND install extra bilge pumps and bilge alarm, since that will buy you time in the unfortunate event of an underwater fitting giving up on you.

We have inboard engines, and many holes below the water line. It's Murphy's law, so I do my best to prepare.

 

[swatski]

Absolutely ^^^^!

The picture on the left with the scupper intake - that should always be free of obstructions.

It is one of Yamaha jet boats most brilliant, distinguishing features: self bailing deck!
Makes those little boats of our see worthy, actually.
In rough water just power on to keep the bow up, won't get swamped - the water drains by gravity and inertia.

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[Ando]

Don't scare me. Lol i want to take this out couple of times before thinking anout upgrades.

I assume its 30-60min upgrade?

 

[swatski]

Don't scare me. Lol i want to take this out couple of times before thinking anout upgrades.

I assume its 30-60min upgrade?

Just make sure it is not cracked or falling apart, you will be fine!
But it is prudent to replace it.

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[Ando]

And it's only one on the ar230 right?

 

[swatski]

And it's only one on the ar230 right?

https://jdonalds.smugmug.com/Vehicles/Boats/SX210-Scupper-Install/i-nBW3h8J

https://jetboaters.net/faq/how-to-replace-a-broken-or-waiting-to-break-plastic-scupper.113/

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[zipper]

Yes that scupper drain or deck drain is above the water line at the cockpit level but below the water line as it reaches the scupper thru hull fitting which is plastic stock. Recommendations are to replace with a S.S. thruhull. The scupper thru hull fitting has a rubber flapper covering the inlet/outlet that keeps water from back flowing up the scupper drain tube when in reverse. This flapper is not water tight and water will reach a static level in the tube whenever you are in the water.

As far as the other deck drains. The ski locker drain and the 2 compartmented drains on the engine bay sole/floor drain to the true bilge under the cockpit sole, under the fuel tank compartment and engine bay. The engine bay is broken up into 3 sections to provide strength to mount the motors, and drains are placed to drain those sections with the bilge pump in the aft most section, mounted so that water from the bilge below will accumulate and rise to a level that the pump can reach, when on. The other drain in the engine bay is on the forward bulkhead. This is the drain for the fuel tank compartment which like the ski locker, can hold water when those drains are in, above the bilge level. Pretty much everyone goes thru it. https://jetboaters.net/threads/water-in-ski-locker-drain.11968/#post-205692

One other thing to consider with this M/Y Yamaha is that pitch of the deck while sitting on the water. I have found that these boats are "bow heavy". What I mean is rain water will flow forward to the bow where it will accumulate forward of the ski locker. The water will accumulate until it reaches the ski locker drain gutter where it will leak in under the gasket into the ski locker and then into the bilge. The gutters around the ski locker and fuel tank are supposed to channel water back to the scupper, but can't if the boat is pitched the other way. Discovered this when questioning why my bow carpet was always wet. This was my solution. https://jetboaters.net/threads/rain-water-pools-at-front-of-bow-floor-while-on-the-water.14264/ Boat has been dry since I did this and wet when I don't.

 

[PJ73]

Yes that scupper drain or deck drain is above the water line at the cockpit level but below the water line as it reaches the scupper thru hull fitting which is plastic stock. Recommendations are to replace with a S.S. thruhull. The scupper thru hull fitting has a rubber flapper covering the inlet/outlet that keeps water from back flowing up the scupper drain tube when in reverse. This flapper is not water tight and water will reach a static level in the tube whenever you are in the water.

As far as the other deck drains. The ski locker drain and the 2 compartmented drains on the engine bay sole/floor drain to the true bilge under the cockpit sole, under the fuel tank compartment and engine bay. The engine bay is broken up into 3 sections to provide strength to mount the motors, and drains are placed to drain those sections with the bilge pump in the aft most section, mounted so that water from the bilge below will accumulate and rise to a level that the pump can reach, when on. The other drain in the engine bay is on the forward bulkhead. This is the drain for the fuel tank compartment which like the ski locker, can hold water when those drains are in, above the bilge level. Pretty much everyone goes thru it. https://jetboaters.net/threads/water-in-ski-locker-drain.11968/#post-205692

One other thing to consider with this M/Y Yamaha is that pitch of the deck while sitting on the water. I have found that these boats are "bow heavy". What I mean is rain water will flow forward to the bow where it will accumulate forward of the ski locker. The water will accumulate until it reaches the ski locker drain gutter where it will leak in under the gasket into the ski locker and then into the bilge. The gutters around the ski locker and fuel tank are supposed to channel water back to the scupper, but can't if the boat is pitched the other way. Discovered this when questioning why my bow carpet was always wet. This was my solution. https://jetboaters.net/threads/rain-water-pools-at-front-of-bow-floor-while-on-the-water.14264/ Boat has been dry since I did this and wet when I don't.

Is this an issue on the 2016 and newer design or previous? Is this something I should be looking at on a 2019 212x?

 

[swatski]

Is this an issue on the 2016 and newer design or previous? Is this something I should be looking at on a 2019 212x?

New models have the scupper outlet/valve above the water line, not below, so not a concern. At least not so far.

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[zipper]

Is this an issue on the 2016 and newer design or previous? Is this something I should be looking at on a 2019 212x?

I am not sure which issue you are asking about. @swatski addressed the scupper thru hull change. As far as the way the deck drains while the boat sits statically in the water, no people in it to move around and change pitch. I assume Yamaha fixed this issue, but I don't have access to a newer boat to test. Maybe someone with a 2016 AR240 with a slip on the Merremec (sp?) River will test it. But with all the mods, will the weight distribution be similar to stock? It just takes a small bucket of water poured into the bow area forward of the ski locker and watch where the water goes. If it all runs back to the ski locker gutter and disappears without entering the ski locker, they fixed it. If it stays pooled in the bow, forward of the ski locker, water will fill the forward gutter and leak past the gasket and leak into the ski locker. I could have added batteries to the stern for weight, as someone once suggested, but I dont have big loud accessories to run and I did not want the weight there all the time. That is why I used a 350#+ ballast bag on the swim platform. Drain when not in use. Solved the problem. And if the tester does not want to get his boat wet (inside the boat) this time of year, just use a level laid on the sole while afloat. Doing the geometry based on the measured water level forward 1° the wrong way is all it takes.
Without using the ballast bag, this is the forward edge of the ski locker gutter in my boat at a slip after a rain event. The bow of the boat has accumulated water forward of this on the sole and the forward edge of the gutter is full and leaking into the ski locker with new gasket just installed. The back edge, where the water should be going, to the fuel tank hatch gutter and then to scupper, is dry.

 

[Ando]

Took the boat out today

Wow what an awesome boat. I really got lucky with this buy.
10k rpm no problem and 50+ mph.
How you guys even ride this any lower then 10k lol
Need to use GPS next time for accurate speed.

The right side cleanout plug seems stuck.
It does feel like it gets unlocked, but won't come out? Anyone had this happen?

 

[swatski]

Took the boat out today

Wow what an awesome boat. I really got lucky with this buy.
10k rpm no problem and 50+ mph.
How you guys even ride this any lower then 10k lol
Need to use GPS next time for accurate speed.

The right side cleanout plug seems stuck.
It does feel like it gets unlocked, but won't come out? Anyone had this happen?

Fantastic results!
Stuck cleanout plugs are a relatively common issue, check those FAQs out and ask more specific questions if needed:
https://jetboaters.net/faq/my-yamah...sticking-how-do-i-get-them-out-or-fix-them.3/

Generally, once you get it out by one of the methods - get the rebuild kit for a permanent fix.

I use 303AP to soak the plugs' seals and keep them out when in storage. Also, get the EZ Locks kit from @Cobra Jet Steering LLC.

If a plug leaks hard while running fast - the engine bay could be swamped with water, so once you get the plug out must repair properly.

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[Dwrat]

When I got my used 2013 the cleanout was also stuck.
I sprayed about a 1/4 can of spray lube and let it soak overnight.
finally was able to get it to start moving and finally, it came out.

 

[swatski]

Post #24 has an EZ Locks info and refresher:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/2016...ressions-plus-ez-locks-refresher.11530/page-2

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[Beachbummer]

Once you get it out, you may not be able to put it back in without rebuilding it...so if it's not winter yet for you and you have a few more weekends, maybe leave it stuck in there until you have a couple of weeks to deal with in in case it doesn't go back in. (Or the rebuild kit on hand at least) Don't waste a weekend!

 

[Ando]

While at it I will change both I guess.
Cleanout plug was half way full after around 3 hours on the water.

The one that's stock when I shake it to remove water drains slowly.

 

[Ando]

Once you get it out, you may not be able to put it back in without rebuilding it...so if it's not winter yet for you and you have a few more weekends, maybe leave it stuck in there until you have a couple of weeks to deal with in in case it doesn't go back in. (Or the rebuild kit on hand at least) Don't waste a weekend!

It's always a boating season here in LA
It was chilly but ok.

 

[Beachbummer]

Nice. although it's just money thrown at the water, rebuilding the plugs is not terribly expensive. Maybe buy the one and see how it goes. Silicone and cleaning the area where it fits into will greatly improve the plug installation process too.

Best of luck!

 

[Ando]

Today I decided to give it another try at starboard side clean out plug and it came out with just wiggling and pulling with one hand.
I put it back in and locked it and tried to remove again was a little harder, but came out again after 5 minute of pulling and wiggling.
Most people say it goes in and out very smoothly, but mine feels very rough. The wall around it and the plug itself is very rough.
Does the whole area need lubrication for smother install and removal?

I don't know if I need the repair kit since it came off by just using my hand.

 

[Beachbummer]

Try to clean up the hole as best you can, and lubricate the rubber with silicone the best that you can
If it's not smooth (immediate insert, immediate release) rebuilding will make it so.