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I replaced it this past Saturday because it was already broken. I got through the end of the fall with a pvc test plug that fit perfectly. Lucky for me, this boat will only see fresh water and stored on a boat lift, so I am not too worried about corrosion.
This weekend is the big test of the scupper valve and how well it was installed. If it works out and the weather holds out, the boat is hitting the water on Saturday!
I don't even have my boat yet, but I've been wondering something after looking at all these pics, as well as going over our boat yesterday. It looks to be a corrugated hose that connects the scupper to the deck drain. How hard would it be to hook up a straight hose between the two openings? I'm in WI, so anything that might hold or trap water catches my attention. I replaced all of the plumbing in our vacation place this past fall after having freeze-related issues every year for the past 4 years, and I can vouch for how sneaky water is at wrecking things you never considered. Not a fan of the corrugated pipe, and if it's not that big a PITA, I'll consider that one of the first things I'd want to swap out when we finally pick up our boat.
I don't even have my boat yet, but I've been wondering something after looking at all these pics, as well as going over our boat yesterday. It looks to be a corrugated hose that connects the scupper to the deck drain. How hard would it be to hook up a straight hose between the two openings? I'm in WI, so anything that might hold or trap water catches my attention. I replaced all of the plumbing in our vacation place this past fall after having freeze-related issues every year for the past 4 years, and I can vouch for how sneaky water is at wrecking things you never considered. Not a fan of the corrugated pipe, and if it's not that big a PITA, I'll consider that one of the first things I'd want to swap out when we finally pick up our boat.
I don't even have my boat yet, but I've been wondering something after looking at all these pics, as well as going over our boat yesterday. It looks to be a corrugated hose that connects the scupper to the deck drain. How hard would it be to hook up a straight hose between the two openings? I'm in WI, so anything that might hold or trap water catches my attention. I replaced all of the plumbing in our vacation place this past fall after having freeze-related issues every year for the past 4 years, and I can vouch for how sneaky water is at wrecking things you never considered. Not a fan of the corrugated pipe, and if it's not that big a PITA, I'll consider that one of the first things I'd want to swap out when we finally pick up our boat.
Anyone install a bronze version? If so what was the part number and vendor? I have a 2010 AR240 and thought I would do this . . . but conscious of the recommendations of not using SS below the waterline.
Anyone install a bronze version? If so what was the part number and vendor? I have a 2010 AR240 and thought I would do this . . . but conscious of the recommendations of not using SS below the waterline.
The scupper valve is only below the water line when you are sitting still. If you are going to use the boat in salt water and plan on leaving it in the water for long periods of time then I would consider a bronze scupper. No matter, Amy metal part submerged in salt water is going to corrode in time. My boat is in fresh water and kept on a lift. The scupper is still shiny after a full season in the water.
Some corrosion may be averted with the bronze version by running a wire from somewhere (inside/outside, from a bolt/screw to a bolt/screw would probably be easiest) to some metal attached to the pumps (where the sacrificial anodes are). The electrical connection will give you the benefit of the sacrificial anode to that part.
Hello everyone. I just aquired a 2008 AR210. The scupper valve and bilge drain plug need to be replaced. Are both of these accessed behind the clean out plugs? I’m trying to figure out if they are behind the engine or if I need to remove the cover around the clean out plugs to access them. Don’t want to go on an expedition and start taking apart things that I don’t have to. The service manual doesn’t give me any detail on how they are put together. I have a lot of unclogging to do and want to start from the front of the boat and make sure all compartments are draining properly before I put her in the water. I also noticed all of the cup holders have a drain but no hose to connect them to an outside drain. Are they supposed to drain on the carpets from the factory?
Hello everyone. I just aquired a 2008 AR210. The scupper valve and bilge drain plug need to be replaced. Are both of these accessed behind the clean out plugs? I’m trying to figure out if they are behind the engine or if I need to remove the cover around the clean out plugs to access them. Don’t want to go on an expedition and start taking apart things that I don’t have to. The service manual doesn’t give me any detail on how they are put together. I have a lot of unclogging to do and want to start from the front of the boat and make sure all compartments are draining properly before I put her in the water. I also noticed all of the cup holders have a drain but no hose to connect them to an outside drain. Are they supposed to drain on the carpets from the factory?
I also noticed all of the cup holders have a drain but no hose to connect them to an outside drain. Are they supposed to drain on the carpets from the factory?
I utilized the instructions here and replaced the scupper on my 2008 ar 230 and they were a huge help. I made my own wrench buy purchasing Amazon.com: Adjustable Wrench ,KISENG 16-68mm Mini Adjustable Spanner Short Shank Large Openings Ultra-Thin: Automotive and cutting about 2" off with an angle grinder and cutoff disk. I had to grind down the stainless steel flange as well, but not the internal nut. Everything went pretty well other than getting some 4200 on my hands, that stuff didn't come off with any solvent I tried.