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Scupper Valve Replacement Options

ZippyBoater

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I've been procrastinating about replacing mine. I have the SS one as well, but every time I look at where it is in relation to the cleanout tray, it doesn't look like I'd be able to reach it! Is it a PITA to change it out?
That's part of the reason I am asking.
 

Julian

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Super easy...no....super hard....no. I'd call it a medium PITA.

Also, keep this idea in mind:
  1. You have to remove the water box to have any easy way to do this. But it ain't hard
  2. disconnect the scupper hose at the cockpit so you can connect the stern part outside the boat (I have photos)....not sure if everyone else did this...but I can't imagine trying to put that f'ing hose on down inside the bilge, even with the water box out of the way.
  3. cover up the stern of the boat....its a messy job
  4. Ideally have two people to do it....it can be done with one...but two would be so much easier and faster!
  5. Wear long sleeve shirt to avoid fiber glass splinters.
 

ZippyBoater

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And even your wife could help. You just need someone outside keeping the scupper from falling out as you start. There is a hex area on the back of the ss scupper you can hold for leverage so the piece does not turn.

If she won't, with enough time, you can probably do it on your own too.
I should be able to get her to hold the scupper while I tighten, but I don't think she will want to help through the whole process.
 

ZippyBoater

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Super easy...no....super hard....no. I'd call it a medium PITA.

Also, keep this idea in mind:
  1. You have to remove the water box to have any easy way to do this. But it ain't hard
  2. disconnect the scupper hose at the cockpit so you can connect the stern part outside the boat (I have photos)....not sure if everyone else did this...but I can't imagine trying to put that f'ing hose on down inside the bilge, even with the water box out of the way.
  3. cover up the stern of the boat....its a messy job
  4. Ideally have two people to do it....it can be done with one...but two would be so much easier and faster!
  5. Wear long sleeve shirt to avoid fiber glass splinters.
Thanks for the advice. That's why I have to get it out of the carport and the waketower up to open the engine cover. When you say the stern are you talking the swim platform or the area where the scupper is located?
 

Billtex2000

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What does anyone/everyone suggest for sealant?
 

Beachbummer

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212xcarbon

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Where is everyone getting the replacement is scupper valves?
Are they all the same? 2014 212x
 

suke

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I should be able to get her to hold the scupper while I tighten, but I don't think she will want to help through the whole process.
I did it by myself. The one my boat has, and even the one that I bought has a back portion you can get a wrench on, then I used massive pliers. Held with one hand the wrench and used the other to grab the pliers and tighten. Was easy peasy and I was able to get it tighter than had I had someone trying to keep it from spinning outside. Also I took the back of the exhaust rubber hose off the pipe AND removed the rubber straps, but didn't feel that gave me any additional room. Personally I'd see what you can do prior to removing stuff. I did take the clean out plug back hatch off. That seemed to help the most. I kind of wish I took more pictures as I felt I had an easier road than what I read most people had. Granted I am fairly mechanically savvy.
 

suke

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20190202_131518.jpg

You can see the back of the scupper looks like a bolt. That's where I put my big crescent wrench on that bad boy. Here you can see the clamp not even on the hose. That nut was also on hand tight. UGH! AND they used clear silicone adhesive. Double UGH! This is with my rear hatch removed taking a pic from the top.
 

Seadeals

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Definitely bite the bullet and change it. I did it solo and didn’t mind it. I found a little shorter version (shown before attaching a new drain hose).
23BA1695-62F1-4B1B-A042-5FCE66069396.jpeg
One good reason I am glad I did besides the crack in the plastic one is what I found inside the hose where it connected to the old one. Doesn’t help the drainage much!
36DAC059-01FE-486C-9EFE-66357841D1E9.jpeg
 

Bruce

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Is this 1.5 inch the size for all of the .models including a 16 ar240?
I believe so but newer scuppers are above the water line so less concern.
 

Billtex2000

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Ours are the same Gen @suke, so I'm hoping my short arms can manage!
 

ZippyBoater

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View attachment 88129

You can see the back of the scupper looks like a bolt. That's where I put my big crescent wrench on that bad boy. Here you can see the clamp not even on the hose. That nut was also on hand tight. UGH! AND they used clear silicone adhesive. Double UGH! This is with my rear hatch removed taking a pic from the top.
Yep, that looks like the part I have. Going to try to get at it tomorrow if I can get to the lake before lunch.
 

Billtex2000

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Nice clean job!:thumbsup:
 

Sbrown

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I think I will replace it, but previous boats I have owned, never had a scupper and they were fine.
There are a crap ton of boats out there without self-bailing decks, it's not that big of a deal either way you wanted to go with it. Plug it up and let the hose drain into the bilge for the pump to handle or stick a new scupper in it, whatever works for you. The main thing is don't leave the existing scupper in place because if it breaks around the outer flange you run a serious risk of flooding the bilge. For the record, 300-series stainless steel fittings are not really recommended for below the water line, either, especially in salt water. Bronze or Marelon is the best bet, per ABYC standards
 

ZippyBoater

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There are a crap ton of boats out there without self-bailing decks, it's not that big of a deal either way you wanted to go with it. Plug it up and let the hose drain into the bilge for the pump to handle or stick a new scupper in it, whatever works for you. The main thing is don't leave the existing scupper in place because if it breaks around the outer flange you run a serious risk of flooding the bilge. For the record, 300-series stainless steel fittings are not really recommended for below the water line, either, especially in salt water. Bronze or Marelon is the best bet, per ABYC standards
I replaced it this past Saturday because it was already broken. I got through the end of the fall with a pvc test plug that fit perfectly. Lucky for me, this boat will only see fresh water and stored on a boat lift, so I am not too worried about corrosion.
 
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